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Thread: Anvil stand

  1. #1
    rendoman's Avatar
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    Anvil stand

    Hi all
    I found today this anvil, about 150kg. I have to clean from dirt and maybe wash with gasoline?
    I'm thinking about where to put it, I got no space now, and a wood belted stock could be not practical to move.
    My idea is to build a sort of minitable , maybe useful to collect grinders and other tools. 50x50mm tubular, with central column and retractables wheels, what do you think about?

    Anvil stand-dsc00922_1600x1200.jpg Anvil stand-dsc00923_1600x1200.jpg

  2. #2
    Nick J Lombardi's Avatar
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    The best way I know of is to strap the Anvil down to a very large block of wood. That is the way I have seen it done. You need to deaden the vibrations of the striking hammer blows to take best use of the the Anvil and its density. You could build a pipe stand with 3 to 4 inch diameter x 1/4 inch thick pipe walls for legs and a 1/2 inch plate of steel. As long you would fill the legs with concrete that may deaden the vibration some. Depending on the hight use 2 to 3 inch pipe to build the cross members to keep the legs from collapsing side to side.

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    tekcraft's Avatar
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    Anvil stand-floor2.jpg

    The steel cart sounds like a good idea. I would use casters with urethane on the wheel to keep the noise and vibration down, and a floor lock like the ones in the attached image to keep it from moving around.

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    Glueman2's Avatar
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    I would stick with timber. I use a tree trunk on retractable wheels. Avoid putting on a bench with other tools because of vibration and differing tool height needs. Have fun.

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    rendoman's Avatar
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    Thank you all!
    Maybe a damping material like wood or urethane it's the right choice! It can be also good the idea of a tree trunk with retractable wheels, maybe a steel belt with 3 wheels attached on threaded rods... I have to find a good wood!

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    Glueman2's Avatar
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    I see you are in Italy so I am not familiar with the local timbers. I used a chunk of eucalypt (I live in Australia). Choose a good close grained timber. A useful resource is The Wood Database. It is based in the USA but has good info. To plane the ends flat and parallel there is a good design on Instructables for a router jig.

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  11. #7

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    Randoman,
    You can do both, a steel base and thick wood platform to anchor the anvil to. I agree with Nick about filling the base legs with something, concrete, sand, steel shot, lead, the heavier the better to keep it stationary. I would not have wheels that stay down, as you will find yourself chasing the anvil around your shop. Try 2 wheels and a removable handle on the other side, lift wheels touch, you move and set it back down no rolling around.
    Just a couple of suggestions, let us know how it comes out.

    TX
    Mr fixit for the family
    Chris

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    rendoman;
    I tend away from the mini-table. Even when the anvil flat is above other equipment, once parts curve a table top will interfere. Dampening [more correctly eliminating] vibration and resonance is going to benefit by avoiding incomplete metallic contact with the anvil itself. If using a tube pedestal, I'll respectfully offer rammed sand instead of cement, as the latter will absorb moisture, harden and shrink away from the walls. I think the strapping we see anvils anchored to trunks with is likely iron, tightly stretched to bind not just retain. Compressing leather, high hysteresis rubber [tire sidewall], or epoxy compound between anvil and strap seems logical. Run lag screws in an acute angle to strap after forming them, generating a lot of tension in the strap. You have a mill; maybe cut 2 pair of wedges to drive under anvil feet. Because you certainly will need to move it occasionally, non-swivel casters are a great idea, mounted to contact when the whole rig is tilted back. The anvil or removable length of pipe will make a good handle if wheels are perpendicular to the length of it.
    Before forging away.....have one of those tiny drill bits handy if you know what I mean.
    You're going to get a lot of satisfaction from this new way to change the form and structure of materials, not to include fingers and thumbs!
    Last edited by Toolmaker51; 07-24-2016 at 09:24 AM. Reason: terminology corrections
    Sincerely,
    Toolmaker51
    ...we'll learn more by wandering than searching...

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    rendoman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Toolmaker51 View Post
    Before forging away.....have one of those tiny drill bits handy if you know what I mean.
    You're going to get a lot of satisfaction from this new way to change the form and structure of materials, not to include fingers and thumbs!
    Thanks for advice! Now I got a small drill in alcol bottle and some steril Needles ready to use! ( But I hope I will not need! )
    I build anvil support as soon as I finished few other things, and maybe a new White painting on wall, because I'm loosing light.
    I will ask a friend who use wood how to find here a good large stump (maybe oak?) and then an essential support for retractable wheel. For now I feel it's the faster and traditional way!

    Little ot question, right to have an idea, If I would build a small forge, for example for pocket knife, what do you recommend?

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    Hi,
    See link for the design I used.
    I added wheels and it works fine.
    I've also used a solid block of wood (tree stump), in the past and this was also ok.

    How to build a Rustic Anvil Stand - Anvils - I Forge Iron

    Good luck
    Rob

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