Free 173 Best Homemade Tools eBook:  
Remove advertisements
Page 6 of 7 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 LastLast
Results 51 to 60 of 67

Thread: Captured allan bolt locking lever

  1. #51
    Frank S's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Peacock TX
    Posts
    2,447
    Thanks
    449
    Thanked 2,214 Times in 1,081 Posts

    Frank S's Tools
    As I have mentioned in other posts a large part of my business was brought to me or sent to me or referred to me by other machine shops and fab shops in the area I sure didn't want those guys going to one of them looking for a job and making up some BS trying to use me as a reference the other shops did the same for me as well.
    better shops do not compete against each other they compete with each other.
    Never try to tell me it can't be done
    When I have to paint I use http://kbs.justoldtrucks.com/

  2. #52
    Canobi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Shrewsbury, Shropshire (UK)
    Posts
    109
    Thanks
    55
    Thanked 187 Times in 56 Posts

    Canobi's Tools
    I may go with your suggestion Okapi and put a lining in the cup for the bearing with my next one as I want to explore tempering at some point for a hobbing project down the road. I aspire to make tooling of Stefan Gotswinter calibre one day, but I'm still cutting my teeth as a noobie engineer/machinist, so keeping things to an attainable level to start with

    Right now I'm currently working out my setup to drill the four concentric holes in the cup. My mill is still not up and running yet (waiting on a reamer) so will be using my lathe again.


    The cross slide doesn't have enough travel to hold the broach shaft in a jacobs chuck, even the 4 jaw makes the cross slide overhang too far, so I've ordered a 12mm 2MT collet in order to bring the cup in close enough to work on.
    Last edited by Canobi; 09-08-2017 at 08:59 AM.
    It's not the destination but the journey you take to get there that matters.

  3. #53

    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    91
    Thanks
    14
    Thanked 24 Times in 18 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by Daturat100r View Post
    Make yourself a rear toolpost.Transformed my myfords ability to part off
    I've been thinking about it. But I don't need to part off 12L14 very often, so I have yet to start designing one. Hmm. I wonder if I could do something that would allow me to remove my AXA100 QC post and swap it to a rear location, then put it back up front when finished parting. I'll have to look into that.

  4. #54

    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    91
    Thanks
    14
    Thanked 24 Times in 18 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by Canobi View Post
    I may go with your suggestion Okapi and put a lining in the cup for the bearing with my next one as I want to explore tempering at some point for a hobbing project down the road. I aspire to make tooling of Stefan Gotswinter calibre one day, but I'm still cutting my teeth as a noobie engineer/machinist, so keeping things to an attainable level to start with

    Right now I'm currently working out my setup to drill the four concentric holes in the cup. My mill is still not up and running yet (waiting on a reamer) so will be using my lathe again.


    The cross slide doesn't have enough travel to hold the broach shaft in a jacobs chuck, even the 4 jaw makes the cross slide overhang too far, so I've ordered a 12mm 2MT collet in order to bring the cup in close enough to work on.
    Hi. I have to ask, is that a piece of saw-slotted PVC pipe snapped onto your leadscrew? I concocted the exact same thing for when I use my 8" chuck, to keep the saddle away from moving in too close by accident. It does the job, and was quick and easy to make on a table saw.

  5. #55
    olderdan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Devon UK
    Posts
    396
    Thanks
    851
    Thanked 729 Times in 255 Posts

    olderdan's Tools
    I see you have a T slotted slide so you could make something like this.
    Captured allan bolt locking lever-screen-shot-09-08-17-06.06-pm.png
    Or a dedicated part off holder which you can leave in place while making parts.
    Captured allan bolt locking lever-screen-shot-09-08-17-06.09-pm.png
    This has cured all my parting problems although you have a fairly light lathe which is a consideration, mine is a 9 inch SB.

  6. The Following User Says Thank You to olderdan For This Useful Post:

    Paul Jones (09-09-2017)

  7. #56
    Canobi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Shrewsbury, Shropshire (UK)
    Posts
    109
    Thanks
    55
    Thanked 187 Times in 56 Posts

    Canobi's Tools

    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by Metalmuncher View Post
    Hi. I have to ask, is that a piece of saw-slotted PVC pipe snapped onto your leadscrew? I concocted the exact same thing for when I use my 8" chuck, to keep the saddle away from moving in too close by accident. It does the job, and was quick and easy to make on a table saw.
    It certainly is

    I put it on when I learned about truing up chuck back plates, it also helped to protect the leadscrew from the cast iron chips.
    It's not the destination but the journey you take to get there that matters.

  8. #57
    Canobi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Shrewsbury, Shropshire (UK)
    Posts
    109
    Thanks
    55
    Thanked 187 Times in 56 Posts

    Canobi's Tools
    Quote Originally Posted by olderdan View Post
    I see you have a T slotted slide so you could make something like this.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Screen Shot 09-08-17 at 06.06 PM.PNG 
Views:	100 
Size:	412.7 KB 
ID:	19507
    Or a dedicated part off holder which you can leave in place while making parts.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Screen Shot 09-08-17 at 06.09 PM.PNG 
Views:	90 
Size:	915.6 KB 
ID:	19508
    This has cured all my parting problems although you have a fairly light lathe which is a consideration, mine is a 9 inch SB.
    Unfortunately it's not so easy for my old Grayson as the cross slide won't travel beyond its central position relative to the bed when feeding in. I've already been thinking about making a sturdy base that extended out the back to give me enough room for other jobs and a parting post is another good excuse to need one
    It's not the destination but the journey you take to get there that matters.

  9. #58

    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    91
    Thanks
    14
    Thanked 24 Times in 18 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by Canobi View Post
    It certainly is

    I put it on when I learned about truing up chuck back plates, it also helped to protect the leadscrew from the cast iron chips.
    When I got the 8 inch chuck for my G0752, since it uses a non-"standard" 1-3/4" threaded spindle, the backplate it came with was for 1-1/2 thread. So I had to buy a threaded blank back plate with 1-3/4, and turn its various surfaces (including the I.D. of the collar around the spindle) to fit the chuck. That was a first for me, and a very interesting experience. In rather unorthodox fashion, I used coolant oil and a shop vac, so there was no flying dust. Nothing airborne made it past the shop vac dust pickup hood, and what landed on the lathe was oily bits easy to vacuum up, which I did very often so it didn't build up a lot. It is a messy business, turning everything black, but I succeeded and kept the chuck's TIR rating within stated specs, so I couldn't ask for more.

  10. #59
    Canobi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Shrewsbury, Shropshire (UK)
    Posts
    109
    Thanks
    55
    Thanked 187 Times in 56 Posts

    Canobi's Tools
    The MT2 collet was waiting for me when I got home from work today so dived right into making the draw bar for it.

    I started with some 1/4" round bar which I cut to length, made a mark about 1.1/2" from one end and turned the rest down between centres to 8mm.

    I then used dies to cut the M10 threads on the unturned portion, and about 2" of M8 threads on the back. I'm using a flange nut for now but plan on turning a handwheel for it later on.


    After bolting the deviding head to the topslide and lining things up, I roped in a straight shank ER11 I've had reserved with other materials and parts for a future QC toolpost grinder project, but decided to "borrow" it to help me out with finishing this one
    It's not the destination but the journey you take to get there that matters.

  11. The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to Canobi For This Useful Post:

    MeJasonT (09-10-2017), Paul Jones (09-09-2017), Seedtick (09-09-2017)

  12. #60
    Canobi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Shrewsbury, Shropshire (UK)
    Posts
    109
    Thanks
    55
    Thanked 187 Times in 56 Posts

    Canobi's Tools
    I finished making the rotabroach but got a bit carried away and forgot to take WIP pics as I went on....



    ....but here's a pic of the draw bar I made for the deviding head and collet.




    I'm calling this project only half complete as I still want to make the handwheel, and I think I'm goimg to make a grinding jig for broach bits. I have a rudimentary idea forming but I'll get back to you guys on that once I've fleshed it out.
    It's not the destination but the journey you take to get there that matters.

  13. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Canobi For This Useful Post:

    Okapi (09-11-2017), Seedtick (09-11-2017)

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •