Well I walked into that one eyes wide shut!
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Well I walked into that one eyes wide shut!
I just had an idea while reading your thread. Next time you need to put a hex key into a hole, what if you milled a circle hole pattern of 6 small holes of an appropriate size positioned to just clear the points on the hex key? The milling passes outward from the center toward each point would then also clear out the center of that pattern to fit the hex key down into the pattern. I believe it would prevent the hex key from slipping, and not require any special tooling to make it work. Left image is the pattern of holes milled away. Right image is what you have left, with the hex key in it.
This example I did in CAD is for a 3/8 hex key hole, and the holes to mill away would require a 7/32" or perhaps a 5mm end mill. I don't think the holes could be done with a drill, unfortunately, because of the major amount of overlap.
metalmuncher what you are talking about is very similar to the flank drive sockets
True! I hadn't thought of that. Rather than doing all the work of my idea, it would seem prudent to just modify a hex socket for whatever means one has in mind of turning the back end. It would be much quicker to utilize a squared off something inserted into said socket, than to mill all that material with a relatively tiny end mill. ;)
And then there are rotary broaches which are not hard to make.
Canobi
All I can say is I like the way you mind works. Why does everything have to be easy or what does it have to be simple?
You hit it square on and made a very nice job of it. I am very sure we will see more of your wise thinking.
Keep it coming
Depends on skill level + knowlege base, both of which are under construction in my case :p
Be that as it may, I came across a really simple design the other day that even my novice skills can turn out, so I'm working on one right now :)
There were no drawings of it I could find so made my own as a guide and left the numbers off as it can be scaled to suit. Credit goes to randyc (practical machinist forum) for the concept design:
https://s3-us-west-1.amazonaws.com/f...he/98490-1.jpg
Here's where I'm at with it so far. The shank is bright mild that is press fit into the main body, which is made of 306 stainless:
https://s3-us-west-1.amazonaws.com/f...he/98490-2.jpg
https://s3-us-west-1.amazonaws.com/f...he/98490-3.jpg
[QUOTE=Canobi;98470]Depends on skill level + knowlege base, both of which are under construction in my case :p
Be that as it may, I came across a really simple design the other day that even my novice skills can turn out, so I'm working on one right now :)
There were no drawings of it I could find so made my own as a guide and left the numbers off as it can be scaled to suit. Credit goes to randyc (practical machinist forum) for the concept design:
https://s3-us-west-1.amazonaws.com/f...he/98490-1.jpg
Here's where I'm at with it so far. The shank is bright mild that is press fit into the main body, which is made of 306 stainless:
https://s3-us-west-1.amazonaws.com/f...he/98490-2.jpg
https://s3-us-west-1.amazonaws.com/f...he/98490-3.jpg
When I saw Rotary Broach mentioned here I looked them up, as I'd not heard of them before. Very cool! But the retail prices for the holder, the part I see you are making, are crazy expensive, especially for a tool that won't see frequent use as a hobbyist. So I am very interested in your project! I see the actual broach bits for these holders aren't too unreasonable. So if I made a holder, I could see owning a few bits.
I was wondering how they accomplished the wobble. Your drawing explains that. Did you turn the 1/4" ball, or is that a bearing ball you bought?