Free 50 Best Homemade Tools eBook:  
Remove advertisements
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 1 2
Results 11 to 17 of 17
  1. #11
    Frank S's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Peacock TX
    Posts
    1,805
    Thanks
    289
    Thanked 1,671 Times in 843 Posts
    You will also have to construct a way to drive 1 of the wheels making a bolt on hub or adapter for a pulley to be mounted on would be my suggestion but in order to prevent the stresses from breaking the center out of the wheel I would recommend the hub have at least 1 bearing in it.
    Another option may be to fill the cavities between the spokes with an epoxy then mount the pulley directly to that with as large of a bolt circle as needed
    Never try to tell me it can't be done
    When I have to paint I use http://kbs.justoldtrucks.com/

  2. #12
    nhengineer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Posts
    98
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 25 Times in 14 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by made2hack View Post
    Well, the drive wheel would have to be connected to the motor somehow, either by pulley & belt combination or gear, maybe direct drive. I was planning on having the shafts static and the wheel spin on the bearings.
    Better give it a bit more thought, Mr. Made2Hack, before you go too far with this. It is good to have a rubber faced drive wheel if you can swing it. Maybe knock out the bearing and press in a solid disc, bore a hole and broach a key seat.

  3. #13
    made2hack's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Posts
    9
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 5 Times in 3 Posts
    Hello,
    Thanks for the suggestions. I will have to strengthen the wheel before adding power to it.

    I was wondering if anyone knows what kind of speed to run for metal? It has to be slower than wood for sure, but I'm not sure by how much. I have a motor that runs at 1500RPM and I guess the wheel will spin slower. Should I calculate meters or feet per minute and figure out how slow to run the wheel?

    Thanks,
    BTW it's Eddie if anyone cares!

  4. #14
    Frank S's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Peacock TX
    Posts
    1,805
    Thanks
    289
    Thanked 1,671 Times in 843 Posts
    Here is an exert from Marks standard handbook for mechanical engineers 11th eddition

    ""Band saws, vertical, horizontal, and universal, are used for cutting off.
    The kerf or width of cut is small with a consequently small loss in
    expensive material. The teeth of band saws, like those of hacksaws, are
    set with the regular alternate type, one bent to the right and the next to
    the left; or with the alternate and center set, in which one tooth is bent to
    the right, the second to the left, and the third straight in the center. With
    high-speed steel saw blades, band speeds range from about 30 ft/min
    (10 m/min) for high-temperature alloys to about 400 (120) for carbon
    steels. For aluminum and magnesium alloys the speed ranges up to
    about 1,300 ft/min (400 m/min) with high-carbon blades. The band
    speed should be decreased as the workpiece thickness increases""

    I just leave mine at around 135 FT/min it is a little slow for mild steels but as currently I do not have coolant on it the slower speed helps for blade life I also normally use a 4/6 TPI but sometimes for thinner stuff I change out for a 5/8 TPI
    what that means is the tooth count is a multiple pitch having 4 and 6 teeth pitches per inch roughly you wind up with 5.3 teeth per inch there are some brands with a 4/7 TPI and a 5/9 TPI and bands specifically designed for thin cylinder tubing having 14 to 18 TPI and even up to 32 teeth per inch on smaller blades.
    A good rule of thumb is to have a minimum of 3 teeth in contact and a maximum of 30 which is not always possible on real thin or real thick materials
    Having a rotary brush in light contact with the side of the teeth helps to reduce build in the gap between the teeth up especially when cutting softer materials
    Last edited by Frank S; 01-31-2018 at 12:57 PM.
    Never try to tell me it can't be done
    When I have to paint I use http://kbs.justoldtrucks.com/

  5. #15
    made2hack's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Posts
    9
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 5 Times in 3 Posts
    Hi Frank,
    Thanks for the info. My local supplier has bandsaw blades that they cut and weld to size from the American company M.K Morse and from their "what to use" documentation, I figured I needed an 8/12 variable tooth blade with 0 degree rake.
    Now, the question is whether to stay with the thinner 12.7 mm blade (1/2") or go with the larger 27mm (1") blade. If I go to the 27mm, I have a choice of getting a better blade, ie the "Achiever" label as opposed to the regular M42. But then again, I think a basic M42 will mostly take care of almost everything I will be cutting.

  6. #16
    Frank S's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Peacock TX
    Posts
    1,805
    Thanks
    289
    Thanked 1,671 Times in 843 Posts
    Tough call, A lot depends on your intended production rate but since you are going with a complete home built machine using either the rubber or wooden wheels it is safe to assume you are not going to set up an industrial saw shop with the need for high speed cutting action. plus I believe you mention planning on around 460 mm centers that would be pretty tight for any blade larger than 12.7 mm 460 mm is not much more than the port a band saws have so the blade twist if you are making a horizontal saw is going to also be a determining factor. since the wheels axis will be set at up to a 45° angle to the cut. If making a vertical cut saw then there would be no twisting of the blade, so a 27 mm would work great on that one, and would even be a better choice as long as the wheels are at least 300 mm in diameter 260 mm would be a tight bend radius for blade life for the 27 mm, My little 6" saw I forget the brand, has 9" wheels on 600 mm centers it uses the 1/2" blade my 10" saw has 40" centers about 1 meter it uses the 1/2" blade. My industrial 12" that has a 3/4" (19mm) blade has 60" (1.5 meter) centers on 16" (406 mm) wheels
    the homemade saw is 48" 1200 mm) centers on14" (355 mm) wheels all are horizontal @ 45° wheel axis.
    Never try to tell me it can't be done
    When I have to paint I use http://kbs.justoldtrucks.com/

  7. #17
    nhengineer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Posts
    98
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 25 Times in 14 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by made2hack View Post
    Hello,
    Thanks for the suggestions. I will have to strengthen the wheel before adding power to it. I was wondering if anyone knows what kind of speed to run for metal? It has to be slower than wood for sure, but I'm not sure by how much. I have a motor that runs at 1500RPM and I guess the wheel will spin slower. Should I calculate meters or feet per minute and figure out how slow to run the wheel?

    Thanks,
    BTW it's Eddie if anyone cares!
    This ( https://www.sawblade.com/band-saw-bl...feed-chart.cfm ) may be of some value.


    Post your reply!
    Join 33,912 of us and get our 50 Must Read Homemade Tools eBook free.



    50 Must Read Homemade Tools

  8. The Following User Says Thank You to nhengineer For This Useful Post:

    oldcaptainrusty (02-02-2018)

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •