Endmill cutter sharpener/grinder using 5C Spin Indexer

[Al8236]

Thanks for the links. Yes, I have seen this video and it is very good and I do propose to emulate this method. I am, however, looking for a way to also incorporate the sharpening of the ends of the endmill.
Again, thank you.

If you look at part 2 of that video He goes into grinding the ends of the mills.
Al

[digitalis49]

Yes. Ok. Thank you. Combining the 2 techniques should help me put something together.

Many, many thanks!!!!

[Toolmaker51]

Entire first paragraph is IMHO.
Grinding in the vicinity of ways that aren't fully shielded [not just covered] is not worthwhile. By shield I mean all 3 axis from the ceiling down + every nook and cranny of the machine draped to shed ALL grit and metallic particles, not flat aprons. And cloth does not filter grind particles. I drape brown wrapping paper, dry or with a film of oil on it where I can't get a downhill slope.

The simplest would be a recip surface grinder - even one of those little 5" Pancho's, but they're short of cross travel. A T&C grinder was posted recently, lots of well built elements from the home shop.

For a spindex: You might find one that runs concentric. Start with an old one, test it with shank sized collets, or re-bore and ID grind collet seating angle. I think something like a dedicated base to 'decline' the back edge for end grinding clearance and relief in place seems a good start. Basically a sine plate for those two angles. Gauge pins would be an inexpensive accommodation for that. Be a natural after doing the OD clearance and relief. A cup wheel on the spindle offers least contact, to keep temperatures down.
For the dovetail, 'Swivel' the spindex against flat angle about 93 degrees against the chuck rail and spindex base. Use the table stop screws to control lateral change from OD to clearance to relief. The finger normally is a springy flat 'blade' to follow the helix, tapered across the width to make the flex consistent. The narrow face [thickness not width] changes the rotating angle less as the endmill loses diameter. Steel strapping tape works fairly well. Cut the shape, drill hole for attaching, and polish the tip so it slides SMOOTHLY, any roughness will translate into grind marks on the periphery, and reduce surface finish when milling.

[Blogwitch]

You don't mention if you have a surface grinder or not.

I do, and started sharpening my endmills/slot drills with the 5C version of one of these, and later, John Stevenson (the designer of the ER version) gave me the prototype holder of the ones I am showing, so now I can use it with both 5C and ER32.

Stevenson's ER32 Sharpening Fixture - Arc Euro Trade

I now use one of these, much quicker and easier to use.

EMG End Mill Re-Sharpening Modules - Arc Euro Trade

But I still use the first one for grinding larger carbide cutters with a lot more flutes.

Maybe not what you initially wanted, but it does give an insight into what else is available.


John

[C-Bag]

This whole dilemma of sharpening at home has been a long process for me. I didn't want to end up like my bro the real machinist with boat loads of low cost HSS end mills filling drawers and still not having a sharp mill when I needed one. And by the views threads like this get, I'm not alone.

So after looking at all the surface grinder type setups and more than the cost I got scared of trying rebuild another machine much less the learning curve, electrical needs and space. As everything in my price range probably needed some serious work.

I guess I should fess up and say I've done kinda like John but went the Deckel knockoff Chinese route.

Universal Cutter Grinder Sharpener for End Mill Twist Drill Lathe Cutter 220V | eBay

As with most things I don't understand as well as I should, it's been quite a learning experience. The original machine like in the pic was not really designed to do endmills(even though it claims to). It was designed to do single lip engravers. And I'll admit I had no real clue what a single lip engraver was. I just looked at the chuck head and thought it must be able to grind anything.....wrong. I tried to ask questions like my bottom line was it needed to be able to chuck up 3/4" end mills which when was expressed as .750 they said it would. Wrong. The one in the ad has Deckel style collets and are limited in size and can only chuck up 18mm, and it needed 19mm to do a 3/4" end mill...doh! Communication can get garbled no matter the native language. I've been lucky these folks truly want to work with me so it's been a long winding trail but we've managed to come to a working deal.

eBay has gotten to be such a tricky place to purchase exactly what I think I want because my experience is so limited. I let price and shipping lead me on and had one like the pic delivered. The first major problem was it weighs 100lbs +. It was double boxed with some styrofoam but was truly a miracle it wasn't destroyed. But another go around with UPS and it would have been more serious damage than a dented knob and a bent adjuster it received. The styrofoam was literally turned to powder in the bottom of the box. When I finally got it unpacked without destroying the box there was 2 major shocks. It runs on 220v 50hz so it had like a mini 3 prong dryer plug on it. Then I looked through the collets and the biggest was a 12mm. Couldn't chuck up even a 1/2" endmill.

When all was said and done I was able drive it down to their warehouse and swap it for the new and improved model that uses R8 collets(! yay, score) and 110v. It also came with a stone and a diamond wheel and they are even going to send me the head for doing the flutes. So far I've been able to rescue my original set of off brand end mills and am starting in on the misc end mills I got with the old Rf-30