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Thread: Exhaust on a petrol generator

  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by NortonDommi View Post
    Ditto for myavid76 but I would bury an old drum with at least 27 times the volume of one cylinder a few feet underground sitting on a few inches of gravel. Put a drain in the bottom, feed in exhaust from top with the exit about 1/2 way down inside drum and take an outlet pipe from the side about 1/4 down,(plastic O.K. for pipes & drum once 3' or more from exhaust port),out under ground at least 6 feet and up and out. Make sure you have a U-bend on the outlet to stop rain water and screen it to stop rodents and wasps.
    You can do the same for the intake and with decent sound insulation you will not know it is running.
    I've done two like this for remote camp sites where you can hear a Mossie at 2 miles and it works well. Generators are in concrete block enclosures with sand filling and lids made of 1/2 height blocks sand filled between 3/4" treated plywood with pipe from intake drum to enclosure and then just out about 10' with el cheapo ventalation fans powered directly from generator,(when genset is running so are the fans).
    Thanks for the reply

    Would internal fans help if inside the box, only running when the gen is on, the access door from the outside will be open anyway when its running.

    PS I'll go into more detail when answering the other replies

    cheers

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hans Pearson View Post
    I have a generator exhausting through a pipe about 50% larger than the original exhaust stub and about 12 ft. long - no problem. Intake as above is fine, just remember that an intake generates a bit of noise as well. The big problem is static heat build-up around the engine if in a relatively sealed room. Good ventilation is essential or you could have the whole lot catching alight on you (generators generate more than electricity, they generate a considerable amount of heat too, especially under load).
    Thanks for the reply

    Thanks for the pipe info.

    The box will be much larger than the generator, and it will have an outside opening which will be open when its running anyway.

    PS I'll go into more detail when answering the other replies

    cheers

  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by tonyfoale View Post
    There is one thing to avoid when passing your exhaust pipe through the wall. DO NOT hard fill between the pipe and the wall. If you do it will transmit noise and vibration to the wall.
    When we moved into our house 30 years ago we were off grid and the previous owner had installed a nice Lyster diesel gen-set in the garage below. He cemented the exhaust pipe into the wall. When it was running the furniture upstairs would walk around the room. One of my first jobs was to chisel some clearance around the pipe, furniture remained stationary then. Incidentally my second job was to build a generator house about 20 metres from the house, then we didn't even know when it was running, except that we had power.

    The area under the house where the generator was originally is now my workshop, when installing that I put my heavy vice on a steel post set in a deep block of concrete whilst pouring the concrete floor. At the top I fixed a triangulated bracket bolted through a concrete block wall, and did likewise for a grinder stand. Her indoors knows when I am grinding or hacksawing something in the vice. The vibration is carried right up into the house. It is the most solidly mounted vice that I have had though.
    Thanks for the reply

    Thanks for that tip, Would spray foam work when sealing around the pipes that go through the timber wall?

    The shed will be made out of- "outside walls" shiplap timber, rendering mesh, 3x2 studs, insulation, rendering mesh and a 18mm board finish, with a 4" wide metal strapping (top to bottom) to keep the timber in place over the shiplap, & hopefully the thiefs getting in (I have tried this method on the other sheds and so far has worked and on one occasion it has made it extremely hard work for them to get break in, with little damage to the shed, except to there chainsaw they used and it clogged the chain up when it hit the redering mesh, I did get a chainsaw for my trouble tho)

    I was thinking about the vibration on the wooden floor, would putting some or more heavy duty rubber dampeners work on the underside of the gen. frame as well as the dampeners already on the gen. ?

    PS I'll go into more detail when answering the other replies

    cheers

  4. #14

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    I did come across some info regarding sound dampening on youtube, If I raise the box lid at an angle inside the shed it will help reduce the sound waves boucing of the walls.

    Has anybody heard anything about it or tried this method.

    cheers

  5. #15

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    Also regarding the access door to the gen. from the outside to start it.

    The heavy gauge metal cage I have got will have some holes cut out to access the plug sockets etc. but enough cage to stop it from being pulled out through the wall, it will also be secured to the footings. Also the hole for the door will have an angle iron surround around the door opening and a metal shutter built inside the wall, to block the hole up when not in use, just incase.

    cheers


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