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Thread: Faboulous binding post

  1. #1
    rendoman's Avatar
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    Faboulous binding post

    Hi all!
    I'm not sure that's the right sub forum for this object

    I'm building some extreme binding post for speaker, usable even as replace for welding machines or Others high current applications.
    I used 1" - 25mm brass rod, m10 threaded cap, 10mm hole for a 3\0 avg cable, overrated for an home speaker.

    I used my last experience with binding post, then:

    - decided to knurl the knob, m10 thread can be hard when cable inserted, now it's nice to use fingers instead of a tool.

    -large insert hole, 10mm instead of 6mm, useful with particular high end cables

    -teflon thick insulators, on 15mm aluminum frame, maybe the best insulator, with a sturdy frame.

    I'm building them as a gift for a friend that is building some very good speakers, I think I will make some couples more for me, I need to rebuild 2 amp frame and question is : why use commercial poor type binding post when I can use some huge custom made one?

    I will not tell you that they sound better than other (high priced) binding post, they're just connectors made of good material, contrarily to many magnetic copper and brass found!
    It's my taste that a great detail like this can give the right accent

    Ps: next thing to do is the body of connector

    Saluti
    Stefano

    Faboulous binding post-dsc01099_1600x1200.jpg
    Last edited by rendoman; 08-26-2016 at 06:00 PM. Reason: lost a part

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    C-Bag (08-27-2016), Paul Jones (08-26-2016), sdiverjack (08-27-2016)

  3. #2
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    Excellent knurling work on the 25mm diameter brass rod and very clean threads.

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    rendoman (08-27-2016)

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    Hi,
    Looks good -keep me posted -- norm


    Quote Originally Posted by rendoman View Post
    Hi all!
    I'm not sure that's the right sub forum for this object

    I'm building some extreme binding post for speaker, usable even as replace for welding machines or Others high current applications.
    I used 1" - 25mm brass rod, m10 threaded cap, 10mm hole for a 3\0 avg cable, overrated for an home speaker.

    I used my last experience with binding post, then:

    - decided to knurl the knob, m10 thread can be hard when cable inserted, now it's nice to use fingers instead of a tool.

    -large insert hole, 10mm instead of 6mm, useful with particular high end cables

    -teflon thick insulators, on 15mm aluminum frame, maybe the best insulator, with a sturdy frame.

    I'm building them as a gift for a friend that is building some very good speakers, I think I will make some couples more for me, I need to rebuild 2 amp frame and question is : why use commercial poor type binding post when I can use some huge custom made one?

    I will not tell you that they sound better than other (high priced) binding post, they're just connectors made of good material, contrarily to many magnetic copper and brass found!
    It's my taste that a great detail like this can give the right accent

    Ps: next thing to do is the body of connector

    Saluti
    Stefano

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I wouldn't know of any reason to not use the ones you made. I have made all manner of items like this instead of paying high dollar for something. Looks good!
    I'm a superhero with no powers or motivation

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    rendoman (08-27-2016)

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    Hi rendoman-
    Those are some good looking parts. Looking forward to the rest.

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    Very nice posts. I'm sure they will work better and last longer than the expensive commercial ones. Good Job!

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    Nice work. I would suggest 45 degree chamfers at both ends of the knurled knob and at the starting end of the thread. Chamfer at the start of the thread will make entry into the female thread easier and less likely to stick. Chamfers at both ends of the knurled knob will provide a grip that is more comfortable to grasp and not as likely to cut the fingers.

    As for the question as to why use cheap commercial posts, commercial posts are electroplated with metals that resist corrosion/oxidation (sometimes with gold). Oxidation and corrosion sometimes occur when dissimilar metals are in contact through electrolysis. These processes can reduce the electrical conductivity of connectors, thus reducing loss of signal(and sound quality in speakers. Whether this loss is significant enough to cause problems is not known to me.
    Last edited by Profkanz; 08-27-2016 at 07:29 PM. Reason: typo

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    Make 2 triangles 6mm thick and tap them to match Binding post threads machined from the left over brass rod. Locate a piece of 4mm thick nylon sheet or piece of cutting board. NOT one from the kitchen! A 100mm or so long steel bolt threaded flush into the triangle(or creative shape) piece. Heat and melt into the nylon sheet with out coming through. Sink into the nylon enough to keep from twisting. Remove bolt and with a drill bit smaller than the tapped threads drill on through the nylon sheet. Flip nylon plate over and enlarge this smaller hole just enough to run the binding post into the threads. This is now an iso-mount. Solder wire to the back of iso mount or a copper connector to attach wires to circuit board from stereo,amp or welding machine.

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    Looking good !

    Look into ohms law, for keeping power and any heating down due to resistance, I am sure there are a bunch of commercial posts out there, but if doing custom,, add some jazz to it so at an eye glance custom built one or so of a kind is very evident.

    Think functional eye candy and you can not go wrong..

    Think bling..

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    I am in no way criticising your work, but for future reference here is how knurls are normally used.

    For tightening and unscrewing jobs, such as yours, straight knurls are recommended as they are easier on the fingers and you can obtain a better grip for rotating.

    For gripping surfaces on say punches, tommy bars and scribers, then the diamond pattern knurl is used, they give a nice non slip surface to hold onto.

    I hope this helps a little

    John

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