Thanks Brendon, really clear.
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Thanks Brendon, really clear.
Far all the readers interested on the topic I strongly recommend reading Brendon's blog, in particular the follow up of this discussion :
http://waneyedgeworkshop.com/2016/03...ne-adjustment/
Thanks Christophe for asking a great question on the palm hammer. I signed up to his website after this last post and really enjoy yours and his blog as a complete novice to wood working.Quote:
Far all the readers interested on the topic I strongly recommend reading Brendon's blog, in particular the follow up of this discussion: http://waneyedgeworkshop.com/2016/03...ne-adjustment/
Also, Thanks once again to Brendon for doing an additional write up and great video to allow us to see the Zen of placing and adjusting the blade with the palm hammer. I could almost feel the blade touch the glass!
:clapping::bow::hattip: To you both! ~PJ
PJ, Christophe, everybody,
I am blown away by the feedback.
Wow!
Thank you all so much
Brendon
Thanks, these posts are very helpful. Is there a source for a plane hammer?
Awesome set of planes. Thanks for sharing. Brass, wood, and steel formed to make an instrument to precisely form wood. They look too nice to use in the shop.
Cheers, JR
The palm hammer is a distinctly interesting adjustment. Since we adjust parts with feeler gages and dial indicators by 'tapping', it makes perfect sense.
I'd guess marble slabs as found in home improvement stores are widely available. About 1/2''/13mm thick they are stable and quite flat. They can be checked and improved occasionally, recommendations here in HMT under surface plates. They are ground flat, some are polished; compared to tile, less perfect results as firing molded ceramic. Plate glass is generally not easy to find. Two sizes serve me well. One is 4x6, the other 12x12. I adhere them to a raised platform on firm rubber feet. If you are hesitant to contact a honed blade to stone, newsprint or wax paper is consistent and protective interface. Then I initiate blade projection with feeler gages at tip of plane closest to the blade opening. So far, I use thumb pressure to set the depth. I do minimal woodwork, but enjoy planing enough, including shaping. I use a small commercial iron to chamfer aluminum plate on a regular basis, just as that material responds to woodworking equipment very well.
daleconway asked about plane hammers. Rod stock is readily available in aluminum, brass and steel. You could cap a short pipe nipple as well, with oil and lead shot as a dead blow hammer. The contact isn't severe enough to deform the blade head.