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Thread: Jacobs taper chuck removal tool

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    olderdan's Avatar
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    Jacobs taper chuck removal tool

    This is for the usual 13mm drill chuck and while the Jacobs taper does a good job they can get a bit set in their ways when it comes to removing them. I have seen people using ball joint wedges and two hammers but but that can damage the ball races.
    This extractor uses the chuck itself and bears only on the bottom of the spindle with no strain on the quill assy, I have occasion to do this regularly more of which later.
    Simply made from 13mm M/S reduced to 11mm with a brass pad and a 6mm SHCS.

    Jacobs taper chuck removal tool-screen-shot-05-13-18-06.37-pm.png

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    jjr2001 (05-31-2018), Kevic (05-13-2018), Paul Jones (05-31-2018), PJs (05-14-2018), Seedtick (05-14-2018), Toolmaker51 (05-13-2018)

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    Very good idea, and safer than drill chuck wedges.
    A recent disassembly was particularly difficult, where an unknowledged [and self-proclaimed industrial engineer] affixed the two with green Loctite! Who isn't familiar with self-holding tapers, lol?
    Not awful different than gauge blocks, except wring together directly after through cleaning with alcohol or acetone.
    Sincerely,
    Toolmaker51
    ...we'll learn more by wandering than searching...

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    I rescued a nice old DeWalt 2 speed hammer drill from a dumpster a while ago. I was actually after the cord that I saw hanging over the edge of the dumpster. When I pulled the cord out of the dumpster, the drill was attached. Kind of like fishing, not knowing for sure what is pulling so hard on your line, then getting a nice surprise.

    I asked myself why would someone throw it away. I soon discovered why. It was stuck in neutral, between low and high gear. That as an easy fix. Also the chuck has really been abused, remnants of concrete make jaws are very difficult to open and close. A concrete contractor was the only trade on the site that day. The teeth on the "gear" that engage the chuck key are damaged, like they have been banged on to tighten or loosen the chuck. It just needs to be replaced. This is the type of chuck that screws on the spindle. The problem now is, the left hand thread, socket head screw down in the center of the chuck has been damaged. I imagine over time bits have been "banging" against it while drilling. The internal hex has been ruined, so I cannot get the screw out. The only option I have come up with is to mount my angle grinder with a cut-off wheel to a concrete block, then run the drill chuck against the wheel to cut of the front of the chuck so I can get a grip on the outside of the screw head.

    Unless anyone has another suggestion....?

    Thanks,

    John

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    With another drill you might be able to drill off the head of the lock screw then unscrew the chuck then remove the lock screw with a pair of vice grips
    Never try to tell me it can't be done
    When I have to paint I use http://kbs.justoldtrucks.com/

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    Quote Originally Posted by olderdan View Post
    This is for the usual 13mm drill chuck and while the Jacobs taper does a good job they can get a bit set in their ways when it comes to removing them. I have seen people using ball joint wedges and two hammers but but that can damage the ball races.
    This extractor uses the chuck itself and bears only on the bottom of the spindle with no strain on the quill assy, I have occasion to do this regularly more of which later.
    Simply made from 13mm M/S reduced to 11mm with a brass pad and a 6mm SHCS.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    not all drill chucks can be removed this way,, only the ones that have a hole all the way through the center of the chuck ,, some do, some dont, your chuck may vary.. i have also seen drill chucks held on with a taper and a bolt in the center at the bottom of said chuck..look before you hammer !!
    Last edited by madokie; 05-13-2018 at 08:20 PM.

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    For the hammer drill of hemmjo, my start would be same as Frank S's, drill out with a second drill. There is enough material to get the head off the screw and part of chuck body to where it might just fall off or unscrew.
    Should that not get it apart, you won't be losing anything of value except a cut-off wheel or two.
    I'd also investigate cost of a replacement output shaft, just in case. DeWalt is plentiful, modern, with repair stations and a big parts system.

    Either way you'll need a chuck. Get a real Jacobs or similar, well worth the cost. Even used, they are easily rebuilt.
    Last edited by Toolmaker51; 05-13-2018 at 08:59 PM.
    Sincerely,
    Toolmaker51
    ...we'll learn more by wandering than searching...

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    What ever you do, do not replace it with a key-less chuck.
    Never try to tell me it can't be done
    When I have to paint I use http://kbs.justoldtrucks.com/

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    Thanks olderdan! We've added your Jacobs Taper Chuck Removal Tool to our Machining category,
    as well as to your builder page: olderdan's Homemade Tools. Your receipt:





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