Free 186 More Best Homemade Tools eBook:  
Get 2,000+ tool plans, full site access, and more.

User Tag List

Page 1 of 5 1 2 3 4 5 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 47

Thread: Jeweling metals, need info

  1. #1
    Supporting Member rendoman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Italy
    Posts
    435
    Thanks
    451
    Thanked 496 Times in 241 Posts

    rendoman's Tools

    Jeweling metals, need info

    Hi all!

    I'm searching info about this technique, I would like to use on the aluminum panel of my next amplifier
    I saw some video on youtube about attempts, but there is nothing about a good work.
    In local shop there are no tools at all, I saw that there are some rubber rod filled with abrasive, nearly impossibile to find here.
    Someone used steel brush, someone rubber with polishing paste.

    For a good job, in your opinion, what's should I need?

    That's the effect I desire

    Jeweling metals, need info-colt-sauer-jeweled-bolts-011-1500x1136.jpg

    https://www.customshopinc.com/produc...shingjeweling/

    186 More Best Homemade Tools eBook

  2. The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to rendoman For This Useful Post:

    Jon (May 17, 2018), PJs (May 17, 2018), Seedtick (May 17, 2018)

  3. #2
    Supporting Member mklotz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    LA, CA, USA
    Posts
    3,438
    Thanks
    357
    Thanked 6,396 Times in 2,119 Posts

    mklotz's Tools
    The rubber rods filled with abrasive you mention probably refers to Cratex products, examples of which are shown here...

    https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_s...=1PG71K5J1ET9R

    As an alternative to Cratex, I've had some success using sections of wooden dowel with a patch of leather glued on the end. Smeared with lapping paste and rotated in the drill press, they leave a nice circular swirl.

    An attractive jeweling job requires two things. First the spacing of the circles must be consistent; spacing errors will stand out and look bad. Arrange some method of mechanically stepping the work between swirls. Don't try to space by eye. Second, the pressure with which the tool is applied to the work should be consistent. While this is slightly less of a concern than the spacing, it's still important.

    Be sure to experiment on some scrap before working on the amplifier. Undoing a bad jeweling job is very difficult.

    2000 Tool Plans
    ---
    Regards, Marv

    Home Shop Freeware
    https://www.myvirtualnetwork.com/mklotz

  4. The Following User Says Thank You to mklotz For This Useful Post:

    rendoman (May 17, 2018)

  5. #3
    Supporting Member rendoman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Italy
    Posts
    435
    Thanks
    451
    Thanked 496 Times in 241 Posts

    rendoman's Tools
    Thanks for your suggestions!

    A question for you: which lapping paste is necessary according to you?

    I want to try your method, with wooden dowel plus leather patch, I think a 6-8mm diameter should be fine for 250x120mm plate.
    Since my milling machine is tiny, I would have thought of building a sort of plate-template with an accurate grid well spaced (according to size of dowel), with a back stop where it's possible to slide manually. It could be a very long work, but it seems a nice idea, I hope

  6. #4
    Supporting Member mklotz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    LA, CA, USA
    Posts
    3,438
    Thanks
    357
    Thanked 6,396 Times in 2,119 Posts

    mklotz's Tools
    I have a kit containing four grades of lapping compound. It's probably forty years old so I doubt it could still be found.

    The grit you use depends on what appearance you wish to achieve; it's really an artistic, not engineering, choice. My suggestion is to get the least expensive automotive valve grinding compound you can find locally there in Italy and try it on a piece of scrap material from the part you wish to jewel. That will give you a sample from which to judge whether you want coarser or finer grit.

    Such experimenting will also give you a chance to decide what overlap of jeweling circles you will want. Overlapping by half the diameter of the circle is common but, again, it's up to you to decide what you find attractive.

    Good luck and be sure to show us some pictures of the finished product.
    ---
    Regards, Marv

    Home Shop Freeware
    https://www.myvirtualnetwork.com/mklotz

  7. The Following User Says Thank You to mklotz For This Useful Post:

    rendoman (May 17, 2018)

  8. #5
    Supporting Member mklotz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    LA, CA, USA
    Posts
    3,438
    Thanks
    357
    Thanked 6,396 Times in 2,119 Posts

    mklotz's Tools
    Not that it will be much use to you in Italy, but my aforementioned box of four grades of lapping compound came from:

    Gerald Kerr Associates
    8999 W. Pleasant Valley Road
    Cleveland, Ohio 44130

    (I Googled them but couldn't find any current listings; they're probably long gone.)

    It contained cannisters of grade 120, 220, 280, 500 (order coarsest to finest) grit. I can remember using the 220 and 280 grit on some jeweling jobs.
    ---
    Regards, Marv

    Home Shop Freeware
    https://www.myvirtualnetwork.com/mklotz

  9. The Following User Says Thank You to mklotz For This Useful Post:

    rendoman (May 17, 2018)

  10. #6
    Supporting Member rendoman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Italy
    Posts
    435
    Thanks
    451
    Thanked 496 Times in 241 Posts

    rendoman's Tools
    Thanks Marv!

    I just tried for my curiosity a fast tool with leather, glued with mastic.
    I tried to put some White polishing paste crumbled and amalgamated in oil, I know it's a bad job, but it was just an attempt to see what would happen. I used 3000rpm with light pressure, the signs are visible after cleaning, but I bet I need something more aggressive. The aluminum scrap was only cleaned with 180 grit paper, too rough maybe for the job

    Jeweling metals, need info-dsc04130_1600x1200.jpg Jeweling metals, need info-dsc04131_1600x1200.jpg Jeweling metals, need info-dsc04133_1600x1200.jpg

    Jeweling metals, need info-dsc04132_1600x1200.jpg Jeweling metals, need info-dsc04135_1600x1200.jpg

  11. #7
    Supporting Member mklotz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    LA, CA, USA
    Posts
    3,438
    Thanks
    357
    Thanked 6,396 Times in 2,119 Posts

    mklotz's Tools
    It looks like what we call "white diamond" polishing material here in the USA. A bit too fine for jeweling though, as you've proved, it produces the characteristic swirls. Do try to get some lapping grease in the 100-200 grit range.

    At any rate, you seem to have proved the leather-on-dowel tool works reasonably well. Keep up the experimenting; you'll soon be an expert.
    ---
    Regards, Marv

    Home Shop Freeware
    https://www.myvirtualnetwork.com/mklotz

  12. The Following User Says Thank You to mklotz For This Useful Post:

    rendoman (May 17, 2018)

  13. #8
    Supporting Member bruce.desertrat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Posts
    787
    Thanks
    559
    Thanked 668 Times in 357 Posts

    bruce.desertrat's Tools
    Grinding and Polishing grits of a variety of sizes are generally available through lapidary and jewelry supply places.

  14. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to bruce.desertrat For This Useful Post:

    PJs (May 17, 2018), rendoman (May 17, 2018)

  15. #9
    Supporting Member desbromilow's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    733
    Thanks
    506
    Thanked 341 Times in 192 Posts

    desbromilow's Tools
    Hi,

    in the past I've done this with a piece of dowel (wooden) and common valve paste. The suggestion of using a piece of leather glued on is better than how I did it, since I had to renew the valve paste a few times per row.

    I've seen it done with those old school "ink erasers" - the guy used a small section of brass tubing as a die, and cut several pieces from the ink eraser, and then let them feed out of the same brass tube section as pads. They didn't wear too quick, and all he did was push a bit more out as it wore down. I think from memory he had a nut and piece of all thread soldered at the end of the tube for feeding the eraser nubs back out.

    Des



    Quote Originally Posted by rendoman View Post
    Hi all!

    I'm searching info about this technique, I would like to use on the aluminum panel of my next amplifier
    I saw some video on youtube about attempts, but there is nothing about a good work.
    In local shop there are no tools at all, I saw that there are some rubber rod filled with abrasive, nearly impossibile to find here.
    Someone used steel brush, someone rubber with polishing paste.

    For a good job, in your opinion, what's should I need?

    That's the effect I desire

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	COLT-SAUER-JEWELED-BOLTS-011-1500x1136.jpg 
Views:	861 
Size:	116.2 KB 
ID:	23789

    https://www.customshopinc.com/produc...shingjeweling/

  16. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to desbromilow For This Useful Post:

    PJs (May 17, 2018), rendoman (May 17, 2018)

  17. #10
    Supporting Member blkadder's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Florida, USA
    Posts
    170
    Thanks
    532
    Thanked 69 Times in 36 Posts
    I have used regular metal polish doing small parts, and they turned out pretty well. I did try using regular pencil erasers, but they did not last very long at all.
    Ron

    ...Semper Fidelis...

  18. The Following User Says Thank You to blkadder For This Useful Post:

    rendoman (May 17, 2018)

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •