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Thread: Johnson 15Hp 2-Stroke Water Pump Repair

  1. #1
    kess's Avatar
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    Johnson 15Hp 2-Stroke Water Pump Repair

    Johnson outboard 15hp water pump rebuild - Impeller replacement.
    The procedure is the same for all Johnson/Evinrude 9.9 ~15 Hp 1974~2007 2-Stroke models.



    Johnson 15Hp 2-Stroke Water Pump Repair-0.jpg Johnson 15Hp 2-Stroke Water Pump Repair-1.jpg

    Johnson 15Hp 2-Stroke Water Pump Repair-2.jpg Johnson 15Hp 2-Stroke Water Pump Repair-3.jpg

    Johnson 15Hp 2-Stroke Water Pump Repair-4.jpg Johnson 15Hp 2-Stroke Water Pump Repair-5.jpg

    Johnson 15Hp 2-Stroke Water Pump Repair-7.jpg Johnson 15Hp 2-Stroke Water Pump Repair-6.jpg

    Johnson 15Hp 2-Stroke Water Pump Repair-8-1.jpg Johnson 15Hp 2-Stroke Water Pump Repair-9.jpg

    Johnson 15Hp 2-Stroke Water Pump Repair-10.jpg Johnson 15Hp 2-Stroke Water Pump Repair-bj15rleds-1996.jpg

    Happy New Year to All

  2. The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to kess For This Useful Post:

    Moby Duck (12-28-2017), Seedtick (12-28-2017), yves78 (12-29-2017)

  3. #2
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    Thanks for that nice video !

    I have 2 engines like that a 9.9 and a 15HP - 1979, and didn't think to the drill test of the water pump !

    I will soon test that, when making maintenance, and also put the gearcase under pressure to verify it. My engines are quite old and I never did that test described in the OMC manuals.

    If you have tips for that too, it would be also very interesting.

  4. #3
    kess's Avatar
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    Hi yves78,

    Clad that you like it.
    The easiest way for a simple test I think is to pull out and collect the gearcase oil to an empty and clean can and see if the oil is clean and without any moisture or something like lather (I don't know the correct terminology but believe that you can understood what I mean).
    Usually the tightness damages at gearcases are from electrolysis (bad anodes) and hitting on the rocks
    (gearcase>crack, unbalance propeller>tightness flange shaft damage).
    If the anodes had has replaced at regular basis I think that the gearcase will be ok, with the premise that never has hit at the rocks.

    Best Regards and Happy New Year

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    Thanks a lot for your answer !
    The anode was very old when I bought the main engine I use, and I just changed it. Therefore for the corrosion point of view, I don't know. One the other engine some areas of the gearcase looks a little bit corroded and had no anode before.. But the used oil have always been clean when I replaced it on both engines

    The test I mentionned is supposed to be a pressure test, to see if the seals are OK or not. They put air pressure in the gear case, with a manometer conected to the gearcase, and look if the manometer remains at the same pression value or not.
    I will have to make some connectors from screws or oil filling connectors in order to connect air in one hole, and manometer in the other one.

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    I think corrosion may be surficial, but you can do a try to clean the corroded spot and see how deep it has gone.
    If it is only surficial you can use a primer and then paint it.
    If corrosion has gone too deep then it will need to rebuild the corroded spot after it has been thoroughly cleaned.

  7. #6
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    I think corrosion may be surficial, but you can do a try to clean the corroded spot and see how deep it has gone.
    If it is only surficial you can use a primer and then paint it.
    If corrosion has gone too deep then it will need to rebuild the corroded spot after it has been thoroughly cleaned.

  8. #7
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    No, I don't think it's deep. It's look just as if the paint was only damaged, and should just need primer and paint as you suggest.

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    Thanks kess! We've added your Johnson Outboard Water Pump Repair to our Miscellaneous category,
    as well as to your builder page: kess's Homemade Tools. Your receipt:





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