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Thread: Lathe milling table

  1. #1
    olderdan's Avatar
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    Lathe milling table

    A milling height extension table for a lathe cross slide made from mild steel.

    When using a lathe for work it was not designed for I think it needs a bit of help, this brings the work nearer the centre height and reduces the need for packing pieces, it also adds some useful weight to resist cutting forces.
    It has enabled me to do some quite heavy milling work, my largest cutter being a 1.5 inch shell mill.

    Lathe milling table-imgp1056.jpg
    Lathe milling table-screen-shot-09-23-16-06.57-pm.png
    Lathe milling table-screen-shot-09-23-16-07.07-pm.png

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    I need a metal lathe. One of these days.

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    olderdan (09-28-2016)

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    Thanks olderdan! We've added your Lathe Milling Table to our Lathe Accessories category,
    as well as to your builder page: olderdan's Homemade Tools. Your receipt:




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    Hi olderdan,

    I like your lathe equipped with a cross slide with T-slots. Adding the milling table makes it even better. What are the lathe specs and manufacturer? I assume you also have power cross feeds?

    Regards, Paul

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    Like all your other projects I like this a lot olderdan. this could possibly be the way to get a project done that a horizontal mill would be more appropriate for. My burning chicken or the egg question is did you mill this on your lathe? Any pix?

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    C-Bag's having trouble in the kitchen; burning all kinds of food.

    ......................Meanwhile in recommendation and IMHO; sometimes NSHO as well....................
    While lathe spindles have all kinds of rigidity; 3 jaw chucks on hardened shanks I'd question. Just like never run taps in drill chucks, jaw faces too difficult to restore, especially if serrated.

    If a chuck MUST be used, invest a little time on mild steel bushing; collared to sit on jaw face, bored to size, [not just drilled and reamed] tapped for setscrew(s) to engage Weldon shank flats and split one side for compression - almost a collet. Close up jaws, then setscrew. The collar will aid retention of concentricity at far end of cutter. If a Set-True chuck, dial in un-ground shank for runout. 4 jaw even better.
    Fact there is HP for shell mills pretty much validates it.
    If anyone wants a drawing, please respond so.
    Sincerely,
    Toolmaker51
    ...we'll learn more by wandering than searching...

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    Thanks to all for the interest,
    The picture was a bit posed, I use a drawbar collet for milling up to 1/2 inch and a 4 jaw for larger cutters.
    Yes a mill is ideal but I have never had one hence milling in the lathe.
    This was made in the lathe using an angle plate on the crosslide which now has 7.5 inches of travel on full length gibs with a longer feed screw, afterwards I had it surface ground locally.
    My lathe is a South Bend 9 inch flat belt with with auto feed from the leadscrew keyway, now driven from a variable speed motor.
    I have asked a lot of over the years it but do keep it well oiled and it is still in good shape.
    Regards
    Olderdan

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    Jon
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    Congratulations olderdan - your Lathe Milling Table is the Tool of the Week!

    This week, we also had a nice CNC Router Gantry from Captainleeward, and a clever Swarf Cap from mklotz. In addition, jjr2001 make it into the Top 10 Tool Builders list with his 76th homemade tool.

    Since this is your second win, you'll be receiving a $25 prize, from your choice of PayPal, Amazon, or bitcoin. Please PM me your award preference, plus a current email address, and I'll get it sent out immediately.

    Here are both of your winning tools:






    Previous winners can be viewed here: 100 Homemade Tool of the Week winning tools

    Congrats again!

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    Older Dan, Sweet!!

    For what it's worth, I posted the following to an Instruables a week or so back on lathe costs:

    Another $.002. Prices are, in my experience, very regional. And the more tooling, the more the package will cost. Along with Makerspace, see if there is a local metal working group. Members pass along sales from people they know who are moving, people who have passed and the family is disposing of equipment, etc. Sometimes with patience great prices can be had because the family wants to see the item enjoyed as their relative did. In the local Chesapeake group, one member just decided to get rid of most of his equipment at the upcoming "yard sale" and the prices are great. Join the Hobby Machinist forum, explore Yahoo! groups for Atlas/Craftsman, Logan/Powercraft (USA Montgomery Wards), small South Bends, Shirlings etc. Craigslist and eBay for local pick-up only. In 2014 I paid USD $700 for a 10" Logan with minimal tooling, but that is as much as is used in the videos. And I got great advice for inspection and moving it! Think space and what you "really" want to make. Many times you will find you are just fine with a 9" or smaller.

    Ron

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    Toolmaker, yes please! Can you comment on boring vs. reaming for size? I have a small set of AT3 collets, but don't think I can get a small enough shank bit for the keyhole cuts.

    Sorry, uh, "HP"?

    Thanks for the offer,

    Ron


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