lawn tractor lift

**robbygordon@live.com** · Jun 15, 2015, 01:35 PM

hello bought a motorcycle lift from princess auto/Canada.. harbor freight similar store in us. then needed to work on lawn tractor so with a 2 inch steel round pipe attached to underside of bed with 10 inches stuck out both sides front and back I bought 2 2x10 8 feet long.... in my junk pile found drain pipe a size a little bigger than steel pipe and attached it to the 2x10 with screws . so that the 2x10 can slide over the steel pipe . I used pennies for washers as they will bend and conform to the plastic pipe giving room for plastic drain pipe to slide over the steel pipe that is attached ( permanetly) ..to the lift base cut plastic a 1/4 inch longer than the steel pipe so if you walk into it wont hurt so much... so with steel pipe bolted to under the underside of the ramp , and the plastic pipe screwed to the 2x10 you can slide the 2x10"s right off if you need it for motorcycles. leave the wood wings on for extra work bench or lift for ride on lawn mower. my spec's said 1000 pounds. so to try it out safely I put a mobility scooter and it held okay.. so then I have 2 project ride on's one is regular other is a small one left for 3 days, still help it up. so lowered lift a few inches off floor and stood on it with rideon's it held. now I am confident it can handle the weight.. put my john deere ride on lifted it to working height and put in supplied safety locks and did a head gasket with out bending over. so I cleaned under the deck .. oil change and a grease job, with out bending over, made job really easy.. so here is a list of mistakes you don't have to make like I did.. when installing pipes put front pipe in front of scissors lift as it will not let lift down. the rear pipe as far back as possible it will still hit bottom frame and be up about 2 inches at that end . I used pennies for washers on plastic pipe to wood as they conform to pipe so screws will not rub on steel pipe. you will need to make ramps same width as wings so it will roll up on ramps. my biggest problem is the pump pipe needs to be extended and I have not found a solution yet, I used a square stock hollow pipe? like 2 angle irons welded together.. works okay but needs improvement. the lift comes from china found a live big bug about 2 inches long in box stepped on it, maybe should have taken it some where to get checked out. I got lift for 3 hundred . now they are more perhaps on sale will be better. my conversion cost 15 for screws and bolts and nuts, and under 20 for wood. hope pictures come out okay for you to see. if your garage looks messy like mine , its organized!

**kbalch** · Jun 15, 2015, 03:49 PM

Thanks robbygordon! I've added your Lawn Tractor Lift to our Motorcycle Lifts, Stands, and Dollies category, as well as to your builder page: robbygordon's Homemade Tools. Your receipt:

Lawn Tractor Lift by robbygordon

tags: tractor, lifting

**DIYer** · Jun 17, 2015, 09:17 PM

That's not a bad mod for a motorcycle lift. Looks flimsy when the tractor's on top, but I guess you checked the load ratings.

**Altair** · Jun 21, 2015, 05:20 PM

Great idea, Robby. I humbly suggest that you use leaf spring shackles instead of flat bar and all thread.

Al

**Trainman3810** · Mar 11, 2016, 05:55 PM

Robby, I did almost the same thing to the same lift only mine came from Northern. I was handling "live Steam" scale ride-on trains for myself and others. I had to add 2 feet to the front and rear using 1" square tubing. I could roll the items either on or off my F-250 x 8' bed. I lengthened the frame on both ends using 2" x 1/4" angle iron. I could roll the lift into the closed garage like yours to work on the locomotive or whatever traiin car I had at the time. I'm retired from the railroading now and will alter mine as you've done to roll lawn tractors on and off. The hydraulic cylendar on mine is shot so I will get one of the air /hydro ones from HF to install to do away with the foot pumping. Those steam engines are over 1K [some of them]. Keep up the good work.

**Trainman3810** · Mar 11, 2016, 06:24 PM

Robby, I did almost the same thing to the same lift only mine came from Northern. I was handling "live Steam" scale ride-on trains for myself and others. I had to add 2 feet to the front and rear using 1" square tubing. I could roll the items either on or off my F-250 x 8' bed. I lengthened the frame on both ends using 2" x 1/4" angle iron. I could roll the lift into the closed garage like yours to work on the locomotive or whatever traiin car I had at the time. I'm retired from the railroading now and will alter mine as you've done to roll lawn tractors on and off. The hydraulic cylendar on mine is shot so I will get one of the air /hydro ones from HF to install to do away with the foot pumping. Those steam engines are over 1K [some of them]. Keep up the good work.