morse cone removal

[lodola235]

Hi,
I have an good quality drill tool on an bend morse cone 3 wich is bend out of center
but I can't remove the taper out of the drill head,
I've already tried the tool in the freezer, and then warm the drill head with an hot air blower,
I've grinded twoo flat sides on the tapered morse cone and with an spie tryed to drive the head off,
now i will weld an nut on the end of the morse cone and with the inside bearing removal tool (with the weight knocking on the sliding bar type )
; an taught that apaerd this night ;
any one who had the same problem ?
ps sorry for my poor english

[olderdan]

If I am understanding correctly you have a drill with a Morse taper socket in which there is an arbor you are trying to remove. All those types have slots though the quill for a tapered drift for removal, you will have to fully extend the quill to see them.
A bench drill with a No3 taper will be a quite substantial machine so take your time to investigate before taking further drastic action.
Your English is just fine by the way.
Regards
Olderdan

[lodola235]

thanks for your answer, Olderdan,
I wished that was my problem, but it isn't I've got the thing for free from an friend

so i have the morse cone 3 taper out of the drill machine, and on the slightly bend cone is an good quality drill chuck (I don't know the exact english word) where you tighten your drill in, it is an keyless head, and I would like to mount an new straight cone in in order to drill wel centered instead of an swinging drill
so in order to remove the head i puted the thing in the freezer, and then took it out, and warmed the drillhead with my warm air gun to let it expand, bur no succes, then I grinded two flat sides on each side and put wigs in to have more force, and taped on the cone with an hammer in order to shock it but still no succes,

now i wil weld an nut on the end side of the morse taper, and with the bearing extractor tool sliding on the bar an try to knock it out that way,

but maybe there is an magical trick to do this right ?

[olderdan]

You say it is a keyless chuck, does it look like this inside at the bottom, if it does you are seeing the end of the arbor which you may be able to press or drift out.

A picture of your chuck type would help.

[Moby Duck]

As I understand it you have a chuck with a male taper protruding from the top end. It has been removed from the drill press and the taper appears to be bent. Look inside the chuck as in Olderdans picture and you might also see a screw head. Remove that screw and you should be able to tap the chuck off, or punch it out as advised by Olderdan. Before you manufacture anything new I would suggest that you inspect and clean, remove burrs etc, from both of the tapers and also the female taper in the drill press. Sometimes they can be poorly assembled and appear bent but when cleaned up they run true again. You should also check the jaws of the chuck for burrs or scoring caused by slippage and remove any defects.

[ranald]

some good quality drills like german made "metabo" had the jacobs (keyed & keyless) chuck epoxied in and are a pain in the butt to separate. I had one that i had tried to separate (there was a screw attaching both parts ) and was advised to use an oxy to heat the item. A reputable tool repairer wasn't game to attack it. I didn't have an oxy so gave the wonderful well balanced drill away to someone who could dare to use the oxy method.

Thanks for posting this interesting scenareo & good luck !

[ranald]

you could try to hold the flat part (on the end of the morse taper , may have to grint it flatter) and try to unscrew the chuck. take a note that, as i posted elsewhere,that a screw may be epoxied into the morsetaper holding the chuck in place so it doesn't come off by accident so heat may be required for removal of screw. also take note of the other advice to clean up any burrs as that may be the cause of it not running true before taking any drastic action like grinding and/or welding.

[bigtrev8xl]

A picture/photograph would help

[olderdan]

All previous advice is relevant and should be considered.
The picture I posted was of a precision keyless chuck in my case an ALBRECHT but other brands will be the same fitting.
If you do see a screw at the bottom the chuck will likely be from a reversing power tool, the screw will be a left hand thread and is there to prevent the chuck from UNSCREWING from the arbor, the head of this screw will almost certainly need drilling off, my tip is to use a piece of tube in the chuck to protect the jaws and the drill bit while doing so. I have never seen a chuck of this type fitted to a No 3 Morse taper arbor but with second hand machinery anything is possible. On that note I have seen arbors that have been bent as they are case hardened only.

[Toolmaker51]

By chance, there is a very recent post on similar work. Chucks have a quite secure self holding taper. A few methods will separate them, but only proper methods will save both sides, even if one is to be scrapped.
The post is http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/j...val-tool-67771