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Thread: Set up block

  1. #1
    Frank S's Avatar
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    Aug 2015
    Peacock TX
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    Set up block

    For lack of a better way to describe it.
    I really hate having to make more than1 trip to town in a month let alone having to do it twice in 2 days. but aside that
    Today I was trying to think of how I wanted to go about setting up the 2 1" thick plates to bore them out on the mill with the boring bar I made the other day.
    I needed them to be about 4 to 5 inches above the mill table to allow room for the bottom stabilizer bearing at first I thought I might make 3 more heavy duty machinist jacks then place a plate on top of the mill table and mount everything to that. However in order to have a solid setup I would need to bolt the plate down then either weld or bolt a means to hold the work pieces in place I don't like welding around my machines when I can get around it. I can cover them and protect them from weld splatter but this means a lot of extra things to have to deal with.
    But even if I had opted to bolt a large thick steel plate to cover the mill table I would still have to do the set up which meant like I said more machinist jacks which I really need just didn't want to make them today, or I needed something large enough and stable enough to use as the stand off.
    MY first thought was a section of 6 to 8" thick wall pipe. I have both but no short pieces then I spied a 6" diameter solid cylinder about 5 " long. Perfect just chuck it up in the lathe and face it off on both ends
    Set up block-20170824_181156.jpg
    leaving a very slight concavity to both faces It is plenty heavy enough to be a stable stand off and I can use the 1 heavy machinist jack to support the opposite end of where I will be boring.
    After machining the faces I laid the plates on top to check my clearances. In doing so I decided to just square up and tack the stabilizer bearings in place now that I have the boring bar and bearings perpendicular to the work piece surface all I have to do is transfer everything from the 1" thick steel table to the mill clamp things down do a little fine truing then bore out the holes like I started doing with the boring head several days ago
    I know I could have been finished by now using just the boring head especially after I had managed to add a bolt in the center of the head to assist in securing it or I could have used my long boring bar and don this in the lathe like I did the excavator thumb part. What would be the fun in that ?
    You may note my machinist clamp holding the cones in place
    I made that in High school while more or less teaching the shop class for the coach my younger sister had kept them all through the years
    Set up block-20170824_183130.jpg
    Set up block-20170801_111335.jpg
    There is just barely enough room to remove the alignment cone
    Set up block-20170824_183759.jpg
    A future project, the making of a square angle block
    Set up block-20170824_184025.jpg
    the question is, do I want to make square on square on square by adding another right angle piece for the handle OR do I want to make square on square on 45° by adding a 2 or 3" wide 1" thick piece so I will have an angle block? Either way I plan on drilling and cross drilling holes on 1" centers on all faces then taping them to 1/2-13
    Last edited by Frank S; 08-24-2017 at 10:16 PM.
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  2. The Following 6 Users Say Thank You to Frank S For This Useful Post:

    jackman (08-25-2017), Papa Bill (08-26-2017), Paul Jones (08-25-2017), rossbotics (08-25-2017), Seedtick (08-25-2017), Toolmaker51 (08-25-2017)

  3. #2
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    Aug 2013
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    Thanks Frank S! We've added your Set Up Block to our Machining category,
    as well as to your builder page: Frank S's Homemade Tools. Your receipt:

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