Free 173 Best Homemade Tools eBook:  
Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 19

Thread: 1/2" taper rebar drift punch

  1. #1
    Frank S's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Peacock TX
    Posts
    4,600
    Thanks
    699
    Thanked 3,699 Times in 1,858 Posts

    Frank S's Tools

    1/2" taper rebar drift punch

    Found another short piece of rebar today this time a 1/2" and 14" long figured it would go well with the previous one which is 3/8" and 9 inches long
    This one I managed to turn the taper on the lathe then heat to cherry and quench it became hard enough to resist a file so I heated to light straw and air cooled it is pretty tough but not brittle Should complement my collection of punches.
    I also have some 3/4" rebar and a piece of 1 1/2" rebar but think I might make other plans of them.
    1/2" taper rebar drift punch-20190818_141259sa.jpg
    Never try to tell me it can't be done
    When I have to paint I use http://kbs.justoldtrucks.com/

  2. The Following 5 Users Say Thank You to Frank S For This Useful Post:

    baja (08-21-2019), Jon (08-19-2019), Philip Davies (08-19-2019), Scotty12 (08-20-2019), Seedtick (08-20-2019)

  3. #2
    Supporting Member metric_taper's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Marion, Iowa
    Posts
    225
    Thanks
    74
    Thanked 98 Times in 62 Posts

    metric_taper's Tools
    I would have never thought of using rebar as tool steel. I know it's "mystery" metal, at least when purchased from the local home supply. I will look at it as high carbon steel in the future.

    I made some sand blast nozzles the other night from 1/2" oil hardening drill rod, them I did not temper.

  4. #3
    Carpenter & blacksmith
    Supporting Member
    Philip Davies's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Reading, Berks, UK
    Posts
    253
    Thanks
    163
    Thanked 394 Times in 113 Posts

    Philip Davies's Tools
    Quote Originally Posted by metric_taper View Post
    I would have never thought of using rebar as tool steel. I know it's "mystery" metal, at least when purchased from the local home supply. I will look at it as high carbon steel in the future.

    I made some sand blast nozzles the other night from 1/2" oil hardening drill rod, them I did not temper.
    Will you be showing us the nozzles? I have made holdfasts from rebar, but they lose their spring rapidly, and have to be bent again. (Iíve made better since.) I take it, Frank, that you do not intend your punches as drifts, to drive right through material?

  5. #4
    Supporting Member DIYSwede's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    Stockholm, Sweden...
    Posts
    182
    Thanks
    164
    Thanked 158 Times in 65 Posts

    DIYSwede's Tools
    Rebar is absolutely underrated, check for yourselves what some ingenuity and cheapness can achieve!:

    1/2" taper rebar drift punch-.22-long-range-stand.jpg 1/2" taper rebar drift punch-matte-finish.jpg 1/2" taper rebar drift punch-.22-rebar-tack-driver.jpg

    For the nosy ones: Rebar barrel

    Note the wire and bubble-gum-colored pink (!) epoxy for the scope rings and front sight mount - keeping it cheap-to-the-bone.

  6. The Following 10 Users Say Thank You to DIYSwede For This Useful Post:

    Andyt (08-21-2019), baja (08-21-2019), billd (08-22-2019), Gromet (08-22-2019), Jon (08-19-2019), metric_taper (08-19-2019), Miloslav (08-21-2019), Moby Duck (08-21-2019), Seedtick (08-20-2019), Toolmaker51 (08-19-2019)

  7. #5
    Frank S's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Peacock TX
    Posts
    4,600
    Thanks
    699
    Thanked 3,699 Times in 1,858 Posts

    Frank S's Tools
    Quote Originally Posted by metric_taper View Post
    I would have never thought of using rebar as tool steel. I know it's "mystery" metal, at least when purchased from the local home supply. I will look at it as high carbon steel in the future.

    I made some sand blast nozzles the other night from 1/2" oil hardening drill rod, them I did not temper.
    I wouldn't put it in any class as tool steel. The properties of rebar are too loosely controlled. While some of it will have a higher carbon content it is not consistent. Rebar can be a lot like the old bed frames made a long time ago some can be drilled while there can be hard spots and soft spots. I've seen some bed frames that you could drill with bargain basement bits then just a few inches away not even a cobalt bit will go through.
    You can get lucky and heat treat rebar so that it will resist a file on the surface but just under a thin case hardened layer it will still be butter soft. I try to think of it as the poorest excuse for Damascus without the pattern and no expectations of hardenability. If I can get a slight case hardening then I will stress relieve it and hope for the best.
    With drift punches I often just need something to nudge 2 parts into alignment to be able to bolt something together.
    Last edited by Frank S; 08-19-2019 at 08:14 AM.
    Never try to tell me it can't be done
    When I have to paint I use http://kbs.justoldtrucks.com/

  8. The Following User Says Thank You to Frank S For This Useful Post:

    Philip Davies (08-19-2019)

  9. #6
    Supporting Member metric_taper's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Marion, Iowa
    Posts
    225
    Thanks
    74
    Thanked 98 Times in 62 Posts

    metric_taper's Tools
    Quote Originally Posted by Philip Davies View Post
    Will you be showing us the nozzles? I have made holdfasts from rebar, but they lose their spring rapidly, and have to be bent again. (Iíve made better since.) I take it, Frank, that you do not intend your punches as drifts, to drive right through material?
    Once again, I've hijacked Franks post.


    Pretty boring nozzles, just straight sections of 1/2" material, bored out 17/64" nozzle hole, with the 120 degree conical lead in from a larger drill. I heated them to cherry red heat with the O-A torch, and dropped them in a jar of peanut oil that was sitting out in my shop for some unknown reason. I used a piece of welding filler rod, I bent a small dog leg hook on. I let gravity hold the nozzle on the hook, then when up to heat flicked them over the open jar of oil. The hot drops caused the jar to crack, but all of these cooled off. I think I should have used water.
    1/2" taper rebar drift punch-img_20190819_112308.jpgThe gun came with the sand blast cabinet.
    1/2" taper rebar drift punch-img_20190819_112427.jpgTop side of gun showing set screws for holding the nozzle, and the air jet that is 1/8" diameter.
    1/2" taper rebar drift punch-img_20190819_112608.jpgThis is a real crappy sketch I made of the gun back in 2001 (on a calendar sheet).

    I just tested them on my Rockwell hardness tester, C scale they are 64-66 hardness. One was 52, that is now a reject.

  10. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to metric_taper For This Useful Post:

    Andyt (08-21-2019), Philip Davies (08-19-2019)

  11. #7
    Supporting Member metric_taper's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Marion, Iowa
    Posts
    225
    Thanks
    74
    Thanked 98 Times in 62 Posts

    metric_taper's Tools
    Quote Originally Posted by Frank S View Post
    I wouldn't put it in any class as tool steel. The properties of rebar are too loosely controlled. While some of it will have a higher carbon content it is not consistent. Rebar can be a lot like the old bed frames made a long time ago some can be drilled while there can be hard spots and soft spots. I've seen some bed frames that you could drill with bargain basement bits then just a few inches away not even a cobalt bit will go through.
    You can get lucky and heat treat rebar so that it will resist a file on the surface but just under a thin case hardened layer it will still be butter soft. I try to think of it as the poorest excuse for Damascus without the pattern and no expectations of hardenability. If I can get a slight case hardening then I will stress relieve it and hope for the best.
    With drift punches I often just need something to nudge 2 parts into alignment to be able to bolt something together.
    Back when I was building my garage (1988), I threaded the ends of 56 of 1/2" rebar I used for the hold downs that the code requires on slab built buildings. I laid up 3 courses of concrete block, on top the slab, so my building was up out of the splash zone. So every 4 feet I had one of these rebar stubs. I made an extension for the concrete drill bit, so I could hammer drill in the 3/4" Red Dot threaded concrete anchors for the rebar bolt downs down in the cored block holes. Lots of work, but it made the inspectors happy.
    I chucked the pieces in my undersize 10x24 lathe, removed the raised surface, then used a 1/2x13 die to cut the threads on each end of the 2.5 foot rebar bolt. I ran into what must have been a ball bearing, as there was no threading of that section, and it destroyed the die. That is when I learned about true HSS dies as well, as I thought those hex dies were for cutting new threads, which I learned are rethreading dies (lasted for 6 threads each). (I was pretty ignorant back then, probably still).

  12. #8
    Carpenter & blacksmith
    Supporting Member
    Philip Davies's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Reading, Berks, UK
    Posts
    253
    Thanks
    163
    Thanked 394 Times in 113 Posts

    Philip Davies's Tools
    Your sketch is perfectly clear. I wasn’t sure at first what you meant.
    Last edited by Philip Davies; 08-19-2019 at 02:29 PM. Reason: Supplements

  13. #9
    Supporting Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    65
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 13 Times in 10 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by Frank S View Post
    I wouldn't put it in any class as tool steel. The properties of rebar are too loosely controlled. While some of it will have a higher carbon content it is not consistent. Rebar can be a lot like the old bed frames made a long time ago some can be drilled while there can be hard spots and soft spots. I've seen some bed frames that you could drill with bargain basement bits then just a few inches away not even a cobalt bit will go through.
    You can get lucky and heat treat rebar so that it will resist a file on the surface but just under a thin case hardened layer it will still be butter soft. I try to think of it as the poorest excuse for Damascus without the pattern and no expectations of hardenability. If I can get a slight case hardening then I will stress relieve it and hope for the best.
    With drift punches I often just need something to nudge 2 parts into alignment to be able to bolt something together.
    Amen. One is not only risking one's own life and limb with this very dangerous use of steel of indeterminate quality, but also those in the vicinity of the rifle when it is in use. Ricking one's own life and limb is one thing, but putting others at risk especially when they are probably completely unaware of the danger is immoral and unethical.

  14. #10

    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Posts
    8
    Thanks
    1
    Thanked 9 Times in 1 Post

    mrehmus2's Tools
    Quote Originally Posted by Dr Stan View Post
    Amen. One is not only risking one's own life and limb with this very dangerous use of steel of indeterminate quality, but also those in the vicinity of the rifle when it is in use. Ricking one's own life and limb is one thing, but putting others at risk especially when they are probably completely unaware of the danger is immoral and unethical.
    Agreed,
    That is a post that should be pulled.

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •