Printable View
I have a 14" Jet JWBS-14OS Bandsaw with a 6" riser block. It comes stock with a 3/4hp motor which is way to underpowered for the resawwing I need to do. I'd like to upgrade the motor to a 1.5 or 2hp motor. Does anyone have any experience with this or recommendations on a motor that will fit?
On the motor label it should list the 'FRAME' - that is a standardized NEMA classification for the motor's form-factor (length, diameter, shaft diameter, and bolt pattern).
It may be that you can find a motor with the same frame size and RPM and just swap 'em out.
The only rub is, that as you go up in horsepower, oftentimes the frame size will change.
But, then again, most times you can make darn near any motor fit just by drilling a few holes.
Be sure to check the new motor for RPM and shaft diameter - they should both be the same as the existing motor.
One more thing to think about is the wire size, switch rating, and amps load. If you go up to, say, a 3HP motor, you'll be pulling roughly 4 times the amps.
The switch may need to be upsized as might the other wiring.
Finally, the easiest way to fix your problem is to give me the bandsaw and forget the whole project.
: - )
I believe that I have the original Rockwell version of your same bandsaw, also with the 6" riser. I concur that the supplied 3/4 HP motor was too anemic for serious resaw work, and years ago I upgraded mine to 1-1/2 HP. I am quite satisfied with the upgrade. Here is a pic of the driving end of my bandsaw - if yours is similar than I think the job will be very easy for you: (click the pics for full size)
Attachment 38271
A couple more pics showing the motor mounting plate with multiple mounting slots, and the data plate of the motor I used, a '56H' frame size that I purchased at Grainger. The important things, as Charles mentioned, are the correct RPM (1700-1800), motor shaft size (so you can reuse the same pulley), and wire gauge. I wired my replacement motor to run on 230V, the original was 115V so even though I doubled the HP, the amp draw is approximately the same, so the same switch was reused.
Attachment 38272 Attachment 38273 Attachment 38274
As an aside, your blade selection has an enormous effect on the resaw experience. For a long time I used the "Wood-slicer" blades from Highland woodworking. They cut like a dream.....initially. But they dull VERY quickly and are therefore quite expensive given their short useful life. I've just recently switched to a bimetal blade from Starrett. So far I'm quite satisfied but haven't done enough resawing with it to have anything to report about blade life. Reviews suggest I'll get way more life out of this blade, even if it isn't QUITE as sharp as the Wood-slicer to begin with.
Best of luck with your project!
John
One important motor consideration I forgot to mention - it really needs to be a TEFC (Totally Enclosed Fan Cooled) motor....as you can clearly see in the pics, it gets dusty down there and you don't want that inside the motor housing!
John
Flyfr8rs is right: TEFC - thems open-frame motors tend to catch on fire!
: - )
Also, oddly enough, a smaller blade works great for resawing - you don't need a 1" wide thing.
THIS VIDEO is way cool!
https://youtu.be/4k-r5utmU2Q
Watch it. Wonderfully informative, and it gets RID of all that fiddling around we think we need to do.
Cheers!
At one time I had a table top band saw and couldn't believe the motor was open. I had to clean the motor out more than once because it was getting packed.Quote:
Originally Posted by flyfr8rs
1-1/2hp is plenty, totally enclosed is paramount, and your odds increase wired for a 220 single phase motor. Least expensive remedy/ aka bang for the buck.
I'm no woodworker, know a few. They'll relate specialized woodworking blades are not created equal. Most use coarse 10-4 TPI hooked blades like those sold for cutting aluminum. No issues.
CharlesWaugh's clip offered is truthful, also check the vid here by Carter Saw Guides Alex Snodgrass, my choice as bandsaw guru.....
https://www.homemadetools.net/forum/...2-18#post74737
All techniques interact with accurate, stable machinery conditions.
Caveat: Keep in mind that Snodgrass SELLS BANDSAW GUIDES.
: - )
I gotta go play with my little 10" saw - it has some very nice ball-bearing-all-three-sides guides on top and rub-block style under the table (the 'nice' ones wouldn't fit.)
I've got all sorts of odd stuff kickin' around to make up a sliding workpiece holder as in the video I shared, but TIME! My boy, TIME!!
:-)
Sells band saw guides?
Yes He Does.
Most say the best available commercially.
Much as I hate the run-of-the-mill pitch men, I overlook those who make their case on 'our' level.
Another caveat:
I'm a notorious contrarian who enjoys the not-so-fancy solution.
Of course, your mileage may vary.
:-)
