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Using hand stamps should be a science, not an art. Today I decided that my hand stamp skills needed to be improved so the results were clear and consistent. Along the way I stumbled into a bit of scrap metal that made a great stamp guide plus learned a few things about my stamping set.
If you are interested, please see
https://rick.sparber.org/AnAccidentalHandStampGuide.pdf
Your comments are welcome. All of us are smarter than any one of us.
Thanks,
Rick
Well DANG! THAT is a good idea. Can’t tell you how many times my steel stamping was crooked over the years.
I’m working on a simple attachment to compensate for rotated letters. The glue is still setting up. Stay tuned.
Rick
I just published version 2.0. It offers a way to indicate when the letter will be up-side-down plus an additional attachment that minimizes letter rotation.
Rick
Thanks Rick! We've added your Hand Stamp Guide to our Miscellaneous category, as well as to your builder page: Rick's Homemade Tools. Your receipt:
<div id="blocks"> <div class="block b1 pngfix"> <div class="bimg"> <div> <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/homemade-hand-stamp-guide"><img src="http://www.homemadetools.net/uploads/219838/homemade-hand-stamp-guide.jpeg"/></a></div> </div> <div class="head pngfix"></div> <div class="left pngfix"></div> <div class="right pngfix"></div> <div class="blockover b1 pngfix"> <div class="title"> <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/homemade-hand-stamp-guide">Hand Stamp Guide</a> <span> by <a href="/builder/Rick+Sparber">Rick Sparber</a></span> </div> <div class="tags">tags: <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/tag/stamp">stamp</a></div> </div> </div> </div>
Rick,
have you seen my solution at http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/m...882#post105674
Thanks Tony & Rick. I've often considered buying a set for marking woodwork but remembered a mechanics mess he made on a diesel engine head as required by a transport dept person (why?) when i wanted to register a truck I had all receipts etc. Anyway, I haven't been able to find anything appropriate for my simple idea:THERE IS ONE OUT THERE. I DON'T WANT A BURN ON type STAMP as I will sometimes require it over a finish. Needs to be adjustable for year also.
ANYONE, ANY IDEAS?
wow this is a wonderful tool ! so simple to make I going to make one too keep up the good work !
Could a metal plate attached with screws work? If so, it could be stamped or etched. There is a lot of information available on transferring laser printed artwork to metal. If copper, it can be etched like a circuit board. If steel, it can be etched with DC current and salt water.Quote:
Originally Posted by ranald
Rick
Tony,Quote:
Originally Posted by tonyfoale
Wonderful solution! I particularly like being able to stack stamps tightly yet hit one at a time with the rod.
It does appear that you are using a better grade of stamp than I own. I suspect that none of your letters are rotated relative to the shank of the stamp.
There is still some "art" involved with all of these solutions: adjusting the striking force as a function of the amount of imprint. Stamping an "I" takes a lot less force than stamping an "M". I was playing with an adjustable length sleeve that would absorb the hammer blow after the punch went in a set distance. It did not work well enough to justify proceeding. Using an arbor press is another way to control imprint depth but it is limited to flat stock that can fit in the press.
I wonder if you could replace your rod with a screw with two nuts on it. Adjust the nuts so they lock while just enough of the screw extends below them. The hammer blow would drive down the screw and stamp until the bottom of the lower nut hits the top of the support frame. This would insure that all stamps went into the base material to the same depth.
Rick
Nice work.
My biggest problem with stamping parts is that I’m almost never stamping on a straight edge! Often the surface isn’t even flat. As a result I’ve gotten fairly good at double strikes that don’t look like double strikes.
In any event I don’t have a lot of suggestions, someone already covered using a big heavy hammer. I do make a point to kill a recess when the part allows. The recess does have to be extremely deep either, just enough to give you a line to align the stamps on. Funny thing is people will think you made the recess to look fancy or protect the stamped area when in reality you just wanted a reference to reduce the crooked print.
I think a few typos crept into your post. I think you meant to say "I do make a point to CUT a recess..." "The recess does NOT have to be extremely deep...."Quote:
Originally Posted by wizard69
Tis a good idea.
Thanks,
Rick
I just updated the article to include a steel stamp guide with adjustable stop.
https://rick.sparber.org/AnAccidentalHandStampGuide.pdf
Rick