Adding a morse taper to drill press.

Printable View

Dec 14, 2016, 03:29 PM
tonyfoale

9 Attachment(s)

Adding a morse taper to drill press.

My drill presses all had chucks on them, but all my drill bits above 13mm have morse taper 2 mountings, as do both tapping heads that I have. I could use these in the mill but that is not always as convenient as a drill press for quick jobs and for some time I thought that I should convert one of the drills to MT2 by making a new spindle. Of my drills I decided that the floor standing Craftsman drill was likely to be the best candidate for modification. I dismantled the spindle and quill with a view to just measuring up to order some material for the spindle.
However, when it was apart I saw that it would be relatively easy to modify an R8 to MT2 sleeve to fit on the end of the existing spindle. However, the original spindle is only 5/8" diam. and the sleeve would have a lot of overhang from a small bearing on a thin shaft. Not good. I then had the idea of extending the quill (much more rigid than the spindle) to hold some larger bearings to support the MT sleeve. Then the only overhang is in the quill and new larger bearings would support the MT sleeve, leaving the spindle to only do the driving and not the supporting.
I had two spare R8 to MT2 sleeves, one was properly hardened but the other was softer and could be machined. So I machined that to take much larger bearings, and the shortened spindle. All in all the job only took a few hours and I was able to use stuff that I had here. I am very pleased with the finished item, particularly the overall rigidity.

Attachment 15491 Attachment 15492 Attachment 15493
Here is the original spindle and chuck, note the small bearings on the shaft and the new larger ones. Next the modified R8-MT2 sleeve is shown alongside an unmodified one. Finally the original shaft is shown without the chuck ready to accept the extension sleeve, note that the lower original bearing is no longer needed.

Attachment 15485 Attachment 15486
Here we have the new quill extension with the MT2 sleeve fitted with bearings. Secondly, the original quill ready for the add-on.

Attachment 15488 Attachment 15487
Quill and spindle with extensions fitted, then assembled.

Attachment 15490 Attachment 15489
Original chuck only drill press compared to the morse taper version.

Now I can use it for my large drill bits as well as a chuck for smaller bits, but the reality is that most of the time it is fitted with a reversing tapping head. In practice large holes are usually make on the milling machine, smaller holes often done with another drill press and tapping with the modified one. A near perfect arrangement.
Dec 14, 2016, 05:13 PM
PJs

1 Attachment(s)

Wow Tony you are gonna fit right in here! This post particularly hits home to me as I picked up a 49'-50' King Seeley/Craftsman bench press about a month ago and have been restoring it...all the while wondering how this might be accomplished. Your press looks to be 70's vintage but the 5/8" spindle and rack are almost identical.

Unfortunately my spindle has a stop at the taper end that appears to be blind pinned. This pic is not long after I got it apart with only minor clean up.

Attachment 15496

The pin doesn't show on the opposite side and I might assume it's either tapered or maybe a splined pin??

The impressive thing about your R8 version is it doesn't add too much to the original length with the chuck which would be important for a bench model. I rarely get anything over a 1/2 bit and have used Silver Demmings once or twice in my current press but not much room for work after that. Mine has the original Jacobs 6A "0"-1/2" chuck but someone along the way spun a few bits in it so it's only good down to 1/32-3/64 now. I may see if new "0" jaws aren't prohibitively expensive. Ultimately I think the runout would be better with a good R8 but somehow really appreciate the beefy vintage of it.

I am curious what kind of clearances you left between the rack throat and your quill extension and does it just butt up to the bottom of the old bearing recess?

Thanks for sharing this great mod that a lot of us have thought about!! ~PJ
Dec 15, 2016, 05:46 AM
tonyfoale

Quote:

Originally Posted by PJs

I am curious what kind of clearances you left between the rack throat and your quill extension and does it just butt up to the bottom of the old bearing recess?

Pressed together with an interference fit using the press in my previous post. I probably also used high strength Loctite on the surfaces but I don't remember for sure. I don't usually make any notes about such things but I do take lots of photos normally, so for these posts I have to write the text from memory.
Dec 15, 2016, 07:58 AM
Paul Jones

Tony,

Thank you for excellent and labelled photos, and the systematic approach and explanation. Your HMT presentation is one of the best I have seen this year and a very useful project, as PJs said, for the viewers.

Regards,

Paul
Dec 15, 2016, 09:46 AM
PJs

Quote:

Pressed together with an interference fit using the press in my previous post. I probably also used high strength Loctite on the surfaces but I don't remember for sure. I don't usually make any notes about such things but I do take lots of photos normally, so for these posts I have to write the text from memory.

Thanks Tony, Good memory! In thinking about this last night I was thinking that adding a shoulder to fit the old 6202x5/8" bearing housing on the rack and using a bearing locker during assembly. It will however require removal of the blind pin and short of drilling it out I'm not sure how to do that yet. Then there is the quill stop set up which will require mods also. I sure like this idea and build you did...more pondering I think. Thanks again for posting this great idea.

Quote:

Your HMT presentation is one of the best I have seen this year and a very useful project

Agreed Paul and that is High Praise considering the quality of your presentation!

Thanks, ~PJ
Dec 15, 2016, 11:05 AM
tonyfoale

Quote:

Originally Posted by Paul Jones

Tony,

Thank you for excellent and labelled photos, and the systematic approach and explanation. Your HMT presentation is one of the best I have seen this year and a very useful project, as PJs said, for the viewers.

Thanks Paul. What is HMT?
Dec 15, 2016, 11:07 AM
tonyfoale

Quote:

Originally Posted by tonyfoale

What is HMT?

Forget that, I have realised what it means, dummy.
Dec 17, 2016, 08:06 AM
DIYer


Thanks tonyfoale! We've added your Morse Taper for Drill Press to our Drilling and Drill Presses category,
as well as to your builder page: tonyfoale's Homemade Tools. Your receipt:

<div id="blocks"> <div class="block b1 pngfix"> <div class="bimg"> <div> <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/homemade-morse-taper-for-drill-press"> <img src="/uploads/162273/homemade-morse-taper-for-drill-press.jpeg"/> </a> </div> </div> <div class="head pngfix"></div> <div class="left pngfix"></div> <div class="right pngfix"></div> <div class="blockover b1 pngfix"> <div class="title"> <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/homemade-morse-taper-for-drill-press">Morse Taper for Drill Press</a> <span> by <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/builder/tonyfoale">tonyfoale</a></span> </div> <div class="tags">tags: <a href='http://www.homemadetools.net/tag/drill-press'>drill press</a>, <a href='http://www.homemadetools.net/tag/taper'>taper</a> </div> </div> </div> </div>
Dec 17, 2016, 05:26 PM
tonyfoale

What exactly does changing the category mean? Is it no longer part of Homemade tools? Did I post in the wrong place first?
Dec 17, 2016, 06:59 PM
Frank S

No that is a way of locating it in the future.
Dec 17, 2016, 08:30 PM
Toolmaker51

Quote:

Originally Posted by tonyfoale

Thanks Paul. What is HMT?

It felt mercenary to respond, quoting your realization, vice this opportunity. We tend to abbreviate a few things here. No doubt what makes this informative, educational & entertaining!
Dec 17, 2016, 10:30 PM
Paul Jones

Sorry about that. I try not to use acronyms too often when writing for HomeMadeTools.net. I have been working in and around information technology since the early 1970's where too much information is either a three or four letter acronyms (and reused more than once). Sometimes in our meetings when someone else is presenting, I will ask a question using the exact words represented by the acronyms being discussed just to make sure everyone else in the room knows what we are discussing. When in doubt, ask for clarification because you are probably not the only one in the room who wants to know. Thanks for asking, Paul
Dec 18, 2016, 02:30 AM
tonyfoale

2 Attachment(s)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Paul Jones

I try not to use acronyms too often when writing

That reminds me of a funny use of TLAs. From 1973 to the late 1980s when I lived in England I had a business making custom motorcycle chassis. In the beginning mainly for racing and later for the street as well. Around 84/85 I made a series of bikes with a non-conventional design of front suspension and steering. One day a magazine editor came down to do an article about it, this was a period when mainstream manufacturers were assigning TLAs to everything. So when the guy asked me what I called the design I said an FFE (I was just taking the mick out of the main manufacturers). He wasn't happy about that and kept badgering me for an explanation. Eventually, I replied that it meant "Funny Front End". He protested that he could not put that in his article and wanted an alternative. Later, over lunch I told him that he could use its real title of BSS. Again he insisted on knowing the expanded version. He gave up after I told him that it meant "Bloody Silly Steering". His approach to life was a tad more serious than mine.
Here are a couple pix. of the bikes from back then with the FFEs.

Attachment 15557 Attachment 15558
Dec 18, 2016, 09:49 AM
mklotz

Good writing practice says that one should indicate the meaning of an acronym the first time it is used in an article. For example, when you talk about calculating CEP (Circular Error Probable) an expansion of the acronym as well as an explanation of the quantity is in order. Many writers ignore this rule, in which case you need to be aware of the acronym dictionary...

Abbreviations and acronyms dictionary

Well worth bookmarking with your other dictionaries. I've encountered very few acronyms that I couldn't find there.
Dec 18, 2016, 10:06 AM
Frank S

I do hope this crown never joins the hashtag society because to me the # is a short way to saying number as opposed to writing "no." with the period using the quotation marks as a means of separating the intended subject from the rest of the context.
I receive messages all the time on my phone where the sender has used hashtag this or hashtag that and for the life of me I can not figure out what language they are trying to write in.
Dec 18, 2016, 10:16 AM
tonyfoale

Quote:

Originally Posted by mklotz

Good writing practice says that one should indicate the meaning of an acronym the first time it is used in an article.

Marv,
I agree completely except in the case of TLA, that should never be expanded, it would destroy the whole point.
It should be the responsibility of the writer to produce understandable text not the responsibility of the reader to figure it out. So while I thank you for the link to the dictionary, I won't be following it up.
I tell my wife that if she wants anyone to listen she should say something interesting. She doesn't take any notice, she just keeps talking anyway.
Dec 18, 2016, 10:43 AM
mklotz

Wife? Oh, you mean SWMBO.

The dictionary isn't meant as reading material; it's a resource for those instances when people use acronyms without clarification.

The cell phonies have a culture all their own. It's a culture in which I have no wish to participate.
Jan 14, 2017, 09:58 PM
Stirmind

Quote:

Originally Posted by tonyfoale

Forget that, I have realised what it means, dummy.

So...does this mean I have to call myself a dummy for scratching my head about this too? LOL, I didn't actually get it until the fear of a dunce-cap hung over my head...:D

Also, thank you so very much Mr. Foale for presenting a clear and precise solution to a project that I've been pondering for about 6 months. I thought I had relieved the desire just last week when I purchased a 1977 "Chrysler Machine" 14 inch drill press, only to sadly discover that the seller didn't know the difference between a Morse and Jacob's Taper.

I had been thinking about fitting an adapter sleeve like you've done, independent of your post which I only discovered this evening, originally for my 10" benchtop to a Morse #1, since I have quite a few MT1 bits and countersinks, and knowing a MT2 would be a bit much for the little guy.

Then I came across the 14" DP and was initially buoyed by the promise of an existing MT2 taper spindle...D'oh! "Morse taper Jacob's taper...what's the difference?" says the friendly neighbor. "Ughh", I thought to myself as I held my smile and continued to load it into my truck. After having already shaken hands on the deal, and knowing the money was going toward his passed-due rent, there was nothing else my conscience would allow. It IS a heck of a nice machine, with great heavy castings, and it runs so smoothly I still can't believe it's 40 years old!

Anyway, I will be posting more about the modification and clean-up of the old beauty, as well as a few other tools I've made, and will be making here soon. You guys have really instilled a feeling of gratitude in me for all of the great knowledge that's shared here, and it's time for payback.

See you back here again soon...Aloha, Chuck
Jan 15, 2017, 11:21 AM
Toolmaker51

We've alll seen Chrysler cars, some know Chrysler ski and sail boats, inboard and outboard engines...
Chrysler machine tools? Please! That has to be posted; with pix naturally!
Jan 16, 2017, 01:55 PM
Stirmind

3 Attachment(s)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Toolmaker51

We've alll seen Chrysler cars, some know Chrysler ski and sail boats, inboard and outboard engines...
Chrysler machine tools? Please! That has to be posted; with pix naturally!

I know, neither had I, and there's nothing on the web about them either...I looked pretty hard and only found cars. I hope posting a pic won't be uncool to the OP(sorry for the TLA...LOL!), but I figure it's cool to fulfill a request, right? I will be creating my own thread to share video and pics about the upcoming modification. Thanks for the interest and here she is....

Attachment 16085 Attachment 16086 Attachment 16087
Jan 20, 2017, 03:25 PM
tonyfoale

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stirmind

I hope posting a pic won't be uncool to the OP(sorry for the TLA...LOL!), but I figure it's cool to fulfill a request, right?

It's not uncool with this OP. Everyone is free to reply with interesting stuff.
Jan 26, 2018, 08:33 AM
bvd1940

Thanks, I was looking to fix my #2 taper on my Powermatic drill press and was looking at pulling the spindle and re cutting the taper and tang slot but just replacing the taper with a r8 adapter will save me a bunch of work and time.:thumbsup:
Feb 26, 2024, 04:00 PM
tonyfoale

When this came up again today in Jon's email, I had another look at it. Well it has been 8 or 9 years since I did this so this is to confirm that it has worked perfectly in that time with no further modifications nor maintenance. It is used frequently, mainly when I need to use large drill bits. I do use it occasionally with the tapping head but mostly I use my manual tapping support for that. I hardly ever need to tap greater than M10, mostly M6, with M8 not far behind and M5,4 and 3 occasionally and the manual device is just so much quicker because of there is no setup required other that putting a tap in it.
https://www.homemadetools.net/forum/...184#post126282