Im not sure if this comes in the right area?
I thought some could find this usefull.
I have used this method to open transformers, battery packs etc..
https://youtu.be/Aa6YZijQHC0
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Im not sure if this comes in the right area?
I thought some could find this usefull.
I have used this method to open transformers, battery packs etc..
https://youtu.be/Aa6YZijQHC0
Do you know of a source for the "speedclick" plastic cutoff wheels that might be convenient for folks in the USA?
I do something similar with the Foredom. I hate childproof containers, especially those containing medications. In addition, my wife has some arthritis in her hands and opening them is awkward. We have no children in the house so the childproofing is totally unnecessary.
The caps that have to be squeezed to turn have a normal cap inside the cap you grip. A ratchet system connects the outer cap to the inner cap when you squeeze it or press down on it. To defeat it you simply remove the outer cap. To do this it's necessary to cut away a ridge on the outer cap that retains the inner cap inside it. A small rotary saw blade run at slow speed inside the rim of the outer cap makes short work of the ridge and the inner cap simply falls free.
Other mechanizations of childproofing also fall prey to my Dremel, Foredom and a pair of slender wire cutters. To date I haven't found a single implementation that I can't defeat in under a minute.
Hi Marv.
Just realized that Dremel has named those differently in Us than Europe. (Need to wonder why)
These are the ones:
https://www.dremel.com/en_US/product...-wheels-5-pack
Seems it can be found from many basic stores.
https://www.google.fi/search?q=ez476...obile&ie=UTF-8
Thanks, Tuomas,
I have the EZ-lock mandrel and the metal cutting wheels but I hadn't realized that Dremel made a type for cutting plastic. Another tool for my arsenal, I've added them to my Amazon shopping basket.
You're welcome.Quote:
Originally Posted by mklotz
Those plastic cutting disks work specially well with little harder plastic types. Like ones in the motorcycles etc.
But they work nicely with softer ones too, if used lower rotating speed.
Good thing is that those lasts very long.
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Thanks Tuomas! We've added your Battery Pack Disassembly Method to our Rotary Tools category,
as well as to your builder page: Tuomas's Homemade Tools. Your receipt:
<div id="blocks"> <div class="block b1 pngfix"> <div class="bimg"> <div> <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/homemade-battery-pack-disassembly-method"> <img src="/uploads/159169/homemade-battery-pack-disassembly-method.jpeg"/> </a> </div> </div> <div class="head pngfix"></div> <div class="left pngfix"></div> <div class="right pngfix"></div> <div class="blockover b1 pngfix"> <div class="title"> <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/homemade-battery-pack-disassembly-method">Battery Pack Disassembly Method</a> <span> by <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/builder/Tuomas">Tuomas</a></span> </div> <div class="tags">tags: <a href='http://www.homemadetools.net/tag/battery'>battery</a>, <a href='http://www.homemadetools.net/tag/disassembly'>disassembly</a> </div> </div> </div> </div>
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I often repair/refurbish laptop battery packs and psu's.
the way I open them is by putting a few drops of gasoline/petrol is the seam of the pack with a drop counter.
Give it a few minutes then use a plastic pryer.
It should open easily if not ad some more drops of gasoline, wait try again.
I tried a lot of things but gasoline seems to be the only thing that dissolves the glue.
grtz
Thanks for the tip Tuomas. I never would have guessed they had a special cutting wheel for plastic. I had used a Dremel a lot in hi school for model airplanes. It was useful but always though it was kind of puny. Granted mine is ancient, I mean antique.
Just as I was starting to need to be able to do some detail work on metal I got the old Dremel back from my dad. But I'd never heard of a Foredom until a Marv thread. I started searching eBay and trying to understand all the different models. The bottom line seemed to be amperage so I added that to my search. I ended up finding a 1.7a older S model in really clean shape with a 30 hand piece. I've been using it the last couple of days and wow is this thing a hoss! Can't lug it down.
So now it's all about the accessories. I've got an angle head coming with 2" flap disks and a 44H handpiece so I can run 1/4" bits and arbors. I wish I would have known about these years ago. The only thing I don't see for it is a depth stop like what you are using Tuomas to help guide your cut. But I'm planning on making an adapter for the Foredom to go in my die grinder mount so I guess that would do the same thing.
interesting about using gasoline to dissolve the glue on battery pack grtz, I'll have to try that. Any good tips about where you buy your batteries anybody?
Always buy brand batteries like from LG, Panasonic, Hitachi, ... they will have the ratings as advertised
the cheap batteries often have a lower mAh rating then advertised
this is for the li-on batteries like the 18650 etc that I use
grtz
Yes, the Foredom is indeed a useful tool.Quote:
Originally Posted by C-Bag
Two remarks...
The Foredom is not the most convenient tool for those situations in which the tool is carried to the work; for those you still need something like a battery-powered Dremel. For something with a healthy amount of power consider the Milwaukee clone of the Dremel. I discussed it a bit here...
http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/dremel-fan-34122
It has the same nose threads as the Dremel so all Dremel accessories are usable with it.
The foot pedal speed control that comes with the Foredom certainly has its uses but it's not the right thing in many cases. I find it difficult to synchronize my foot controlling the speed with my hands manipulating the handpiece and the workpiece. For situations where the Foredom is stationary, i.e. most, I find a router speed control much better. Mine has a full-off-variable speed switch so once the speed is set I can return to it without having to "hunt".
The Dremel was always something I used for bench work so the Foredom is perfect for me. I'd made an overhead arm for the tool balancer that I put on my 5" grinder so the Foredom just hangs next to it. I was loaded for bear with those two hanging and my bench mount die grinder set up on the same bench. I probably won't need the 5" grinder for detail sanding once the angle head and flap disks for the Foredom show up.
The foot pedal seemed the weak spot going in. I knew with use I'd get used to it, but letting off to stop isn't always intuitive for me when some thing goes wrong. So any router speed control can work with any model Foredom? They say that only certain speed controls can work with specific models. And the full-off-variable would be what I'd want too.
I can't say positively but I expect that it's probably true. My Rockler speed controller claims 26 amp capacity so it's certainly got the necessary oomph. Assuming Foredom didn't change its motor design somewhere along the line, everything should be ok.Quote:
Originally Posted by C-Bag
Foredom sells its own version of a stationary speed control...
https://www.amazon.com/CONTROL-FLEXS...+speed+control
but it's pricey and doesn't have the three position switch.
A 15 amp router speed control...
https://www.amazon.com/MLCS-9400-Sta...+speed+control
costs half as much and has the switch.
For a little more money you can get 20 amp capability...
https://www.amazon.com/MLCS-9410-20-...+speed+control
but I doubt you need it. That small Foredom motor won't draw anything like a router will.
I own the MLCS-9400 and can attest to it quality/price point. I got if to control the SPF of my little HFT 1x30" belt sander when using it on acrylic or thin metal...it would burn quickly because of the speed, depending on the grit of course. I can lower the speed considerably with it but it does lose torque considerably below half speed. There is a trim pot adjustment for torque but didn't find it helped much at all.Quote:
A 15 amp router speed control...
https://www.amazon.com/MLCS-9400-Sta...+speed+control
costs half as much and has the switch.
Luckily it was enough for acrylic. The other nice feature is the center off toggle which gives you Variable-off-full power. Price has gone up a few bucks since I got it but works for the money and my needs.
I have many of those EZ lock wheels for my Dremel and the ones for plastic do work quite well even up to 1/2" acrylic or schedule 80pvc. Finally picked up the diamond one...Very Pricey...hope it holds up to carbide for that kind of doh!
Gasoline...Interesting.
Nice thread going on here...good useful info. Thanks Toumas good tip on the battery packs!! ~PJ
Thanks for the info Marv and PJs. It's definitely on the list now. One more question in that link there is a laser photo tach that is referenced as something people buy together. Do either of you guys have one? There's been several times where I wondered what something was turning at and with these variable devices it seems to be handy thing.
I have a nearly identical counter (NEIKO brand name) and it works very well. It comes with reflective tape; you stick a bit to the rotating entity and aim the counter at it. For devices with chucks (lathes, mills, drills), I turned a 1/4" shaft on a small piece of steel and stuck the tape to that. Easier and I don't waste tape.
When I bought it I tested it against my home built electro-mechanical tach, described here...
http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/e...chometer-32232
With a quality counter attached, this home built marvel has essentially zero error - call it +/- 1 rpm.
I don't remember the details now but I was impressed with how accurate the NEIKO counter was.
If you buy one, use it to check the speed charts on your lathe and mill. I was surprised to see just how far off they were.
Thanks Marv! I'm on it. Even though this stuff is a drain on the pocket book I'm all about doing it smarter, not harder.
C-Bag, I own the one in the Add-On link and its been fine for me. I believe it is pretty accurate as tested on known motor speeds but have no other kind of tach except an old friction wheel and needle type used in model air planes to compare it to. Use it all the time on lots of things including the lathe and the 1x30" belt sander for RPM/SPF...and a ton of other stuff. Even used it to figure out the hand crank speed I needed for the Music Box for my grandson. Used it on the 1.5v motor to get the speed then figured my gear ratio to be 30:1 to make it sound right when driven. Comes with a lot of tape but not always necessary and have only changed the battery once since 11/27/2012. Also just used it on the motor I found for my Lapping machine and all along the gear train it had on it to see if I could salvage some of the gearing to get what speed I want.
Close enough for my stuff but Marv's Neiko is "Marv tested & approved"...gotta be good. Probably worth the extra bucks, IMHO.
To quote my investment counselor, "Spend it now or your kids will!"Quote:
Originally Posted by C-Bag