It's going to be killer. If the worry about flanged bearings I bet you can duplicate what they do. If its end play [thrust] a spring and bearing ball [ball only] with a set screw could control it. Flanged, could be housed, or maybe auto front spindle bearings, [very common to rear wheel drive cars] drive taper is built in, use same on both sides, shaft shouldered one side, nut and cotter pin other end. They are inexpensive here. Lots of motorcycles use them too, even in swing arms. Hope the terms are universal enough that you can ID them. You might look at RockAuto for photo leads. Try 1965 Chevrolet Chevelle, they were drum brakes, RWD and occasional chick magnet.
My Italian language interpretation and translation can't get me past a dinner main course, and crummy desserts! Everybody else looks at the cart and KNOWS what to get!
...we'll learn more by wandering than searching...
Thanks for advice!
It's Always a pleasure to see american big engines and cars on parts site!
I built a kind of protractor from steel, I thinked different ways to solve the problem, but at the end I think that's the easiest. Wire in picture is only demo, I will make something more valid.
It's time to take measures for last wheel shaft, and decide motor alignment.
In last picture there is the longest belt 3m ( 118" ), I got also some shorter 1,8m, I think the outreach of arms is good, I hope to not have problems with vibrations, for this reason I put 12x m10 lock on both vertical and horizontal sheath.
Ps: this anvil is really beautiful! Hammering punches has never felt so good, Pieces motionless and sound attenuated, I'm happy
...thinking the next step...
a good work maybe needs a couple of keyways, I can easily do with mill on the rod, but i got troubles doing them on internal of pulleys... Should I try with lathe and a parting tool? or maybe with 4\5 blades stick togheter? or maybe with a couple of grains ( I think the worst job possibile )
In august shops are closed, it's difficult to find things, but here I not lack of imagination
the way I make a lot of my internal key-ways is to run a small end-mill through the bore roughly removing most of the metal then chuck the part in my lathe and lock the spindle with the precut key way exactly on the horizontal center-line then grind a piece of HSS the size of the key mount it in the tool holder with half above and below center then I hand cut the finished key way using the carriage travel making very small cuts until I reach my desired depth of cut. you can do this without using the end mill first but requires more material to be removed by hand
Never try to tell me it can't be done
When I have to paint I use http://kbs.justoldtrucks.com/
I tried, not the best work ever done, but at least it works
I used 3mm hss for cutting 19mm bore. Now I'm thinking about the last wheel, bore is 15mm, the exact height of the tool, i got no insert or hss so tiny to be used.
I'm thinking of drilling the wheel+shaft and put 6 grains, or maybe i should use file till Tomorrow, trouble is that wheel is 85mm long, maybe a 30mm key can be enough
Very nice tool!!
Thank you and thank to Frederic that passed me a useful link to a similar tool
Question for you, it's ok about shape and operation, but what kind of insert can be used? I'm surfing aliexpress page for indexing tools and parts but there are really many type, they have a specific name?
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