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Bow bar chainsaw. 28-second video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PE2tK08tgrQ
23-second video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=slpCI3YZGm0
More: Southern Forestry Products, Inc. :: Cutting Bars
Previously:
https://www.homemadetools.net/forum/...944#post124947
https://www.homemadetools.net/forum/...466#post122599
https://www.homemadetools.net/forum/...159#post126129
https://www.homemadetools.net/forum/...2565#post76591
I always thought those bow type bars are actually for cutting brush type vegetation and small trees as the open part of the box prevents the bar from getting pinched.
There is supposed to be a guard along the top part of the bar, like there is on the lower video, as the chance of "kick back" is much greater with a bow bar that a regular bar.
That guys chain will not last very long running it into the ground like that.
It's interesting that in the first video above, the saw doesn't appear to have a chain brake installed... and on top of that, the operator is wearing no PPE... no chaps, gloves or head protection. My understanding is that bow bars are much more inclined to kickback, though I'm sure the dog/pawl on the lower front reduces that significantly when used correctly.
The key words with any tool or equipment..Quote:
Originally Posted by IAMSatisfied
Discounting the pawl, kick back, I'm guessing is angle difference compared to conventional saw. One working 'with' rotation of shoulders, the other a leverage + weight effect. The radius of the bow would increase contact/ depth/ eventual kerf binding, where straight is a gradual change.
After all the shortest distance between two points . . .
Of all the chain saws I have owned or ran I have never found one that had enough power to kick back But I've never ran one that had a 36" bar either. I can't wear gloves when using a chain saw even the thin drivers gloves I wear for welding don't leave enough room between the handle and the stupid kick back bar.
the best chain saw I ever had was 50 years ago it weighed around 40 lbs had a 24" bar used the equivalent of todays .404 .063 chain a monstrous exposed cylinder engine and no kick back brake.
These things we can buy today are good for maybe 3 seasons at best before the plastic starts breaking up.
Cutting with the tip of the bar is the reason why the need for the kickback brake.
the pawl located where it is would help but cutting into the ground? What's up with that? I have hard enough time keeping a chain sharp cutting the type of wood that I have. I try to avoid ever cutting through knots and never in contact with the ground you might as well be cutting nails
Agreed. To a beta-grade yard engineer, ground cutting might be attractive, hardly practical.
Kerf-binding slows things down cutting powered or manually. I cut adjacent to where a cut-off [buck] positions unworked remainder stable, and short end subject to gravity. Noticed long ago many branches not straight as power poles, or even in the video.
Bow bar chain saw seems just a gimmick, meant to attract beta-grade users, or gamma-grade customers.
Also why everything imaginable now carry safety warnings. Thank you, lawyers, underwriters, lobbyists. I'd rather they include applications; for Darwin Awards.
The problem with including applications for Darwin awards is the lawyers, underwriters, lobbyist, ETC would not be able to justify their jobs. The what would they do? become activist, pushing junk science or form protest groups? Oh wait they already do that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Toolmaker51
So, what with further identifying as activists, the problem is. . .? It might cure itself!Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank S
Granted there seems no limit, forming entities seeking to undermine legal pursuits.