Bubble Level Attachment For T-handle Tap Wrench

I recently saw an ad for a tap wrench bubble level and thought these would be very useful and easy to make for the shop. The bubble levels are used to ensure the tap is starting square to the part and staying in alignment to the pilot hole during taping. The alignment process assumes the part is already level.

I used T6-6061 aluminum 0.750” and 1.0” diameter rods to make the bubble level cases. The 0.545” diameter by 0.33” thick bubble levels are available through Amazon.com (14mm Circular Bubble Spirit Levels) and eBay. I checked the bubble levels on my level surface plate and these were indeed level and the thickness of the levels are exactly the same all the way around. This is important because the levels fit against the machined inside bottoms of their cases and parallel to the case bottoms. I made two bubble level cases with slip fits over the ends of a small (0 to #8 tap) and a larger (#4 to ¼”) T-handle tap wrench. In addition, I made one of the bubble level cases with a rare earth magnet on the back. This allows the level to be used in many applications in the shop.

I included the plans, photos of the tap wrench bubble levels, and an example of the level guiding a tap wrench. These plans are kept in a spiral bound grid paper notebook that I use for sketching tool ideas.

Close-up view of tap wrench bubble levels with and without magnets
Attachment 7852

T-handle tap wrench without bubble level
Attachment 7853

T-handle tap wrench with bubble level
Attachment 7854

Level case ready to install bubble level and secure with Loctite 680
Attachment 7855

Large and small cases for T-handle tap wrench bubble levels
Attachment 7856

Machining and boring the T6-6061 aluminum cases to 0.547” dia. to exactly fit bubble levels
Attachment 7857

Plans to make the T-handle tap wrench bubble level attachment
Attachment 7858

As you can see from the photos, these are very useful and easy to make. I am sure the one with the magnetic backing will be useful in other leveling applications around the shop.

Thanks for looking, Paul Jones

Thanks Paul! We've added your Tap Handle Bubble Level to our Tapping and Threading category, as well as to your builder page: Paul Jones' Homemade Tools. Your receipt:

<div id="blocks"> <div class="block b1 pngfix"> <div class="bimg"> <div> <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/tap-handle-bubble-level"><img src="http://www.homemadetools.net/uploads/140687/tap-handle-bubble-level.jpeg" /></a></div> </div> <div class="head pngfix"></div> <div class="left pngfix"></div> <div class="right pngfix"></div> <div class="blockover b1 pngfix"> <div class="title"> <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/tap-handle-bubble-level">Tap Handle Bubble Level</a> <span> by <a href="/builder/Paul+Jones">Paul Jones</a></span> </div> <div class="tags">tags: <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/tag/level">level</a>, <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/tag/tapping">tapping</a></div> </div> </div> </div>

Very clever idea, Paul. May I add that, if possible, sticking/gluing one to the back or top of one's cordless drill will help in drilling perpendicular holes.

Most tap breakage arises from unwanted side forces on the tap during tapping so I do most of my tapping in the mill right after drilling and using a tap holder with a guide pin held in the chuck. Many modelmakers use a so-called tapping machine that mimics what I do on the mill.

Oldtimers had two methods for keeping the tool vertical. One was a tapping guide block. They're still made and sold...

Robot Check

but it's easy to make one's own. They are handy if you have to tap into a vertical or inclined surface where a level won't work.

The other method was to set a mirror vertically behind the tool. By aligning the tool with its image in the mirror one can keep it vertical in one axis. I suppose it would take two mirrors to guarantee true verticality.

Regardless, your approach is superior to both of these methods. The tapping block can get in the way of part features and the mirror(s) trick is just too fussy. Your method is compact and provides a vertical reference in all directions.

Marv, these are all great suggestions depending on the situation. I have made several taping blocks for taps #10 and smaller but my favorite I use most of the time, as you suggested, is the V-TapGuide. I have making a tapping machine on my "to do" list. I needed the bubble levels for taping a part on my pool equipment in a very cramped location (always the case for pool equipment) but did the tapping free hand without blocks or bubble levels but can use the levels next time. Thanks, Paul

Bubble levels! Ingenious, and convertible. It seems like I'm hand tapping in place frequently now; see levels and a block are going to the top of my list. Once weldments are assembled, they sure aren't going in any machine I can visualize. Breaking taps in machine frames is NOT how you win popularity contests.
Probably need a drill-bushing plate along with them...

Mr. Jones, very slick! Thanks.
---Joe

Toolmaker51, I had a chuckle at "Breaking taps in machine frames is NOT how you win popularity contests." At one job I used to arrive and one of the day shift blokes would skive off to the showers. I used to hope the burning sensation in his ears kept him awake at night as at least once a week my day was buggered fixing his stuff-ups, stripped threads and broken bolts were one thing but taps were a real pain, always in the worst most inaccessible place plus I had to get my personal stuff out to clean up afterwards. Same bloke was the one who liked to "do a bolt up tight then give it a little tweak until I feel it give".

All good tips. I also like to place a DVD over the hole I am drilling or tapping.
It improves the sighting a lot.

Jim

Jim,

That is a great tip about using the mirror-like reflecting surface of a DVD for a 360 degree view of the perpendicularity when tapping and drilling. We should add this tip to the Tool Tip section of HMT.

Thank you for the advice,
Paul

Thanks @Paul Jones!
Great tip! Just added a bullseye to my drill. (These pix are a re-staging since I'm using the bubble so much. I thought I'd share.)

First pic shows "milling" a "flat". Chucked a 3/8" (headless) bolt into drill chuck and 3-jaw mounted to the tailstock of my shopsmith 10ER. Used a re-purposed 3/4" spade bit as the end mill.
Attachment 24512

REALLY should have shortened the shank! As there was a little chatter there were a few candidates for the desired flat. :-) I reused the setup to find the optimal one.

I set the 3-jaw on my bench with another bullseye on the face and matched the one on the drill to it as I epoxied.
Attachment 24513
Attachment 24514

Doug

Hello saintrain,
Brilliant. I think this may catch on.

To Paul Jones, saintrain. re: NortonDommi,
Oh it caught on alright...ordered bullseyes for tap handles and cordless tools. However, loony contours of MY 20v cordless set are too stylish, producing a flat will go through the case. Can't imagine why corded tools remain more conservatively shaped, while cordless look like something from a kid's movie...no matter how many times used, stays a drill or a saw; not transformed into imaginary heroes.
I'll have to make mounting pads with relieved backs; ala Paul Jones with the bulls-eyes recessed for a little protection.

I have a couple of bulls-eye levels cemented to magnets very handy little gadgets but I hardly ever use them. Mostly because I don't think about them until I finished with what I was doing.
When the subject comes to hand held power tools I have walls and tool boxes full of them and to this day in all my years I have never found a pistol drill motor that that I truly like the shape or angle the handle is made. For years I have wondered why couldn't the makers simply make the handles with replaceable grips make them bolt on like the grips of a revolver like my S&W model 29+ 8 3/8" 44 mag or my Colt 1911

To Toolmaker51 (Does @Toolmaker51 work here?) Would epoxy putty work? Make the flat and attach in one swell foop. I was thinking that would have been a lot easier for me.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by saintrain

To Toolmaker51 (Does @Toolmaker51 work here?) Would epoxy putty work? Make the flat and attach in one swell foop. I was thinking that would have been a lot easier for me.

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Yup, Toolmaker51 is in the building, so to speak. 2-part adhesive is planned, hollowed back pocket providing 'volume'. I'll probably use rifle bedding compound. Challenge [tedious exercise for 2 different pieces] is approximating the contours.