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Thread: C-Clamp Swivel Pad Fix-Short Version (4K)

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  1. #3
    Supporting Member Toolmaker51's Avatar
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    Toolmaker51's Tools
    I've never thought of welding them, or using a washer to alter the hole size. Good show tsbrownie.


    The clamps I have here are missing pads. They hang in the corner, waiting for "it's time" to fix them all. Easier to do multiples of alike pads than one at-a-time.

    Machining is straight forward with a hole almost 2 diameters [of the ball] deep and somewhat larger diameter. Too tight, and the swivel action binds. Have used both ball end mills and plain old drill point for the bottom.

    The open end needs decent thickness to retain forming the closure, not so thick requiring heavy blows. Before parting off, hack or band saw across the opening, in 2 cuts 90° apart.
    To assemble, I don't oil them, graphite is better. Tighten the screw with pad in place, to a sturdy piece of plate, clamp body in a vise, right against underside of plate. Close the end more downward than from the side; just enough to hold, with firm, well placed hits. Some will use a rounded punch, others a ball peen.

    Have repaired many clamps over the years, often those little 2 inchers. Good brands (US and Europe) make it worthwhile, they're of good malleable material. Pull out the screw and wire brush it, deburr internal threads of frame, straighten the screw & Tee handle, reassemble with that new pad!
    Occasionally a frame is bent, that's more of a challenge due to shape of the forging. A heavy arbor press or at least 20T hydraulic is usually needed; with a handful of wedges and shims, to direct pressure in direction required.
    Sincerely,
    Toolmaker51
    ...we'll learn more by wandering than searching...

  2. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Toolmaker51 For This Useful Post:

    Philip Davies (Apr 3, 2024), tsbrownie (Jan 20, 2022)

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