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Thread: C-Clamp Swivel Pad Fix-Short Version (4K)

  1. #1
    Supporting Member tsbrownie's Avatar
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    Feb 2019
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    tsbrownie's Tools

    C-Clamp Swivel Pad Fix-Short Version (4K)

    This is the short, 3 minute, version of my C-clamp fix without all the other methods I considered along the way.
    I've had this broken C clamp sitting on my work table for 4+ years. Today I'm going to fix it or toss it.

    It is stronger than new.

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  2. The Following 12 Users Say Thank You to tsbrownie For This Useful Post:

    Andyt (Jan 18, 2022), asterix (Jan 24, 2022), bigtrev8xl (Jan 18, 2022), Drew1966 (Jan 23, 2022), elk-a-holic (Jan 24, 2022), Jon (Jan 20, 2022), Moby Duck (Jan 23, 2022), Philip Davies (Jan 18, 2022), schuylergrace (Jan 23, 2022), Slim-123 (Jan 22, 2022), thinkbackwards (Jan 19, 2022), Toolmaker51 (Jan 19, 2022)

  3. #2
    Supporting Member TrickieDickie's Avatar
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    Jun 2018
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    I used a pin punch and it worked successfully

  4. The Following User Says Thank You to TrickieDickie For This Useful Post:

    tsbrownie (Jan 17, 2022)

  5. #3
    Content Editor
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    Aug 2013
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    Thanks tsbrownie! We've added your C-Clamp Swivel Pad Fix to our Clamps category,
    as well as to your builder page: tsbrownie's Homemade Tools. Your receipt:

  6. The Following User Says Thank You to DIYer For This Useful Post:

    tsbrownie (Jan 18, 2022)

  7. #4
    Supporting Member Toolmaker51's Avatar
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    Feb 2016
    Midwest USA
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    Toolmaker51's Tools
    I've never thought of welding them, or using a washer to alter the hole size. Good show tsbrownie.

    The clamps I have here are missing pads. They hang in the corner, waiting for "it's time" to fix them all. Easier to do multiples of alike pads than one at-a-time.

    Machining is straight forward with a hole almost 2 diameters [of the ball] deep and somewhat larger diameter. Too tight, and the swivel action binds. Have used both ball end mills and plain old drill point for the bottom.

    The open end needs decent thickness to retain forming the closure, not so thick requiring heavy blows. Before parting off, hack or band saw across the opening, in 2 cuts 90 apart.
    To assemble, I don't oil them, graphite is better. Tighten the screw with pad in place, to a sturdy piece of plate, clamp body in a vise, right against underside of plate. Close the end more downward than from the side; just enough to hold, with firm, well placed hits. Some will use a rounded punch, others a ball peen.

    Have repaired many clamps over the years, often those little 2 inchers. Good brands (US and Europe) make it worthwhile, they're of good malleable material. Pull out the screw and wire brush it, deburr internal threads of frame, straighten the screw & Tee handle, reassemble with that new pad!
    Occasionally a frame is bent, that's more of a challenge due to shape of the forging. A heavy arbor press or at least 20T hydraulic is usually needed; with a handful of wedges and shims, to direct pressure in direction required.

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  8. The Following User Says Thank You to Toolmaker51 For This Useful Post:

    tsbrownie (Jan 20, 2022)

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