Car ramps - under construction

Hi all!
My need was to have some good car ramps for maintenance and change of parts (like exhaust in my case). I saw "commercial" model in ebay and amazon, I see too many chinese copy not well made, light weight and bad welded, rated from 1 to 2 ton each, with very thin profile as brace. Got a friend that buyed this type of ramp, He did some modification, tended to strengthen the body. I think that it's better to plentiful when your body is under a low car, not? :D
I Buyed this afternoon 42kg of 30x30mm thick 2mm, and angular 30mm thick 3mm, I cut some rods today, tomorrow I have to cut small parts. Hope that 100 electrode (1,6 2,5 mm) suffice to finish the job, I want to weld all the sides.
I'll draw some paper with accurate measurements, total lenght is 120cm, 30cm high, 30cm wide
Hope in few days to complete 2 ramps :rolleyes:

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Just finished one ramp, I have to weld (or screw)a wheel stop. I welded each side with electrode welder, mostly 2,5mm, probably more than it needed :rolleyes:

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After I tried to lift car with ramp, I see that the block at the end was too high, plus I decided to put a "stabilizer" in order to keep ramp in position.
It's not so easy to climb the ladder, even not impossible... :rolleyes: I think that a flat surface can aid the climb, I'm thinking about intermediate parts in wood, between each step, what do you think?

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by rendoman

I think that a flat surface can aid the climb, I'm thinking about intermediate parts in wood, between each step, what do youthi k?

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WOW! I think you ought to put wheels on the ramps and drive them :rocker: Better safe than sorry.

My cheapo store bought ramps of pressed metal came with what I thought was silly little plastic "pre" ramps and I never needed them until my wife's CLK 320 Benz.......that thing is right on the ground. Those little plastic pre ramps worked perfect. If you make the wood pre ramps hook into rungs of your ramps you'll have it made. Good luck.

Here is a method that I used to use for determining the maximum distance apart for the ladder rungs
I took the weight of the smallest vehicle that would be driven up the ramps divided by 4 then divided by the tire width then divided by the proper tire pressure then again the weight by 4 then by the rolling radius ( distance from the ground to the center of the axle) then by the width of the tire then added the 2 results and divided by 2 the answer is the distance
For instance if say a vehicle weighs 3600 lbs and has 6" wide tires 32 PSI and a 14" rolling radius it would go like this
3600/4=900/6= 150/32=4.6875 3600/4=900/6=150/14=10.714+4.6875= 15.401/2=7.7"
This would mean that 7.7" would the the distance between the rungs
Other factors come into play as well such as the inclination of slope extra wide tires will change the distance by making it less tires less than 6 inches would make the distance longer this causes a problem in smaller diameter tires so I used 6" as a moderate constant dimension
Placing the rungs at half the max distance makes for a much easier climb for the non powered end of the vehicle.
I hope this helps

Many thanks for advice!!
Interesting calculation! I only copied existing models, but I think my distance between pegs is not so good, maybe I'll add some extra iron or wood, it's not so easy to climb, and stop the car in correct position :rolleyes:
Hope in few days to complete them!

new update
I tried to shorten the distance between rungs, it really help the climb! I cut the old block and put a 45 degree stabilizer. Seeing now the ramps, If I could go back I would do the flat supports longer. Now I'm thinking to add some 15cm more on the top flat in order to climb easily and being less carefully to stop car in the middle.
The last picture is a joke for an audio group on facebook, it's like an open baffle speaker ;)

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Looks like you only need a couple of stop chocks now they could be made removable to slip over the top end sq tube , make them about 3 to 4 inches tall . 3 inches if you make them straight up 4 inches if you make them to sit as a 45° out angle

Thanks for the advice! I will make them in few days!

Hi!
I finished ramps :rolleyes:
I decided to change them adding 30 more flat surface, not for real use, only for ease of loading during climb.
I made also some small wheel stop chocks 45 degree and put some more rungs as adviced by Frank s, thanks for advice! Now the car climbs better
I Have to search a good software for making plans, original papers as usual here at the ending of work are destroyed by use and not so nice to see ;)
I Painted with anti-rust grey varnish, not a great job but for my use is enough!
ps: I have to give the second paint to chonk

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Project is finished, I post a rough drawing if someone want to replicate the ramp

Saluti
Stefano

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Looks like you did a really great job of fabrication If you can find an old bias ply non steel belted tire cut a couple of strips from the tread then bolt them to the bottom of your chocks this will help to make them non skid on smooth hard surfaces, doing this on the ramps will also make them safer especially when rolling the non powered wheels up the ramps.

Thank you for the advice Frank!
I have to find this tyre! I tried with a thin rubber plate but it's not effective, I used bed linen (whiten use) and it's good on porhpyry flooring, but not practical. I will follow your advice!

You can also watch along the roadways, Tires come apart all the time losing the tread tread portion without the steel belts. Obviously Lorrie tires would be too thick but the tires from smaller cars or caravans would do nicely/ or even just cut up a bicycle tire the aggressive mountain bike tires are not only wider but thick enough as well .Here in the USA many of the smaller trailer tires are still non steel. The last time I was in Italy was back in 2011 and those type tires were still in general use there as well at the time.

Car ramps finished :)