Cooling system for dril lpress

Hi

I made a cooling system to my second drill press too.
Actually, i can use same system with my mag drill also. Both hoses from fluid collectors goes to the same tank.

As a tank, i used old computer cooler. (Zalman reserator 1 )
I just changed bigger pump to it, used Eheim aquarium pump wich pumps 30 L/min.
Adjusted suitable flow speed for the cutting fluid directly from the pump. So, i don't need separate speed adjustment for the motor.

Attachment 22217Attachment 22218

Collector is made from 1.5mm thick stainless 316 plate. Welds made with tig.

Attachment 22219

Used rubber cones as a feets, those are actually intented to be used to protect threads when sand blasting.
Feets are secured with strong epoxy.

Attachment 22220

Filter keeps hose open, its 3D printed and took 30 min to print, so its easy to change if it gets stucked.

Attachment 22221Attachment 22222

Also hose clamp is printed. Magnet holds it in desired position.

Attachment 22223

Done:

Attachment 22224

Im going to upgrade my drill press soon, so made things easy to swap to the new one. Also collector is quick to empty when its unbolted.

Edit:

After consulting out cats i decided that its better to attach pan proberly to the drill.

Attachment 22271Attachment 22272

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Thanks Tuomas! We've added your Drill Press Cooling System to our Drilling and Drill Presses category,
as well as to your builder page: Tuomas's Homemade Tools. Your receipt:

<div id="blocks"> <div class="block b1 pngfix"> <div class="bimg"> <div> <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/homemade-drill-press-cooling-system-2"> <img src="/uploads/210538/homemade-drill-press-cooling-system-2.jpeg"/> </a> </div> </div> <div class="head pngfix"></div> <div class="left pngfix"></div> <div class="right pngfix"></div> <div class="blockover b1 pngfix"> <div class="title"> <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/homemade-drill-press-cooling-system-2">Drill Press Cooling System</a> <span> by <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/builder/Tuomas">Tuomas</a></span> </div> <div class="tags">tags: <a href='http://www.homemadetools.net/tag/drill-press'>drill press</a>, <a href='http://www.homemadetools.net/tag/coolant'>coolant</a> </div> </div> </div> </div>
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Beautiful sheet metal work on the Pan Tuomas! Do you have to remove the pump to adjust the flow? They make ball valves for the linked nozzles but not sure it would be good for the pump? Nice idea and re-purpose of the cooling system. :hattip:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by PJs

Beautiful sheet metal work on the Pan Tuomas! Do you have to remove the pump to adjust the flow? They make ball valves for the linked nozzles but not sure it would be good for the pump? Nice idea and re-purpose of the cooling system. :hattip:

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Thanks. I don't need to remove pump. My hand fits inside the container, but after its once adjusted i don't need to change it anymore.
I have planned to add ball valve to it, but to the T-connector, in the way that when valve is closed, it guides coolant back to the container.

Attachment 22252

Not sure why you are worried about running the coolant back to the reservoir when the valve is closed. I've used aquarium pumps fountain pumps and swamp cooler pumps for cutting coolant for years Always had them wired so they could not be left on if the machine was not running but the pump switch could be switched off if I didn't want coolant. never had anything other than a valve on the coolant line to restrict flow. Those little plastic impeller centrifugal pumps always seemed perfectly happy running with the valve closed. the rubber impeller ones with a more positive volume/ pressure delivery not so much. but could get a couple years out of them even at that as long as I didn't leave them running against a closed valve for very long. I always prefer to have a pump run indicator light to remind me it was on of off when I wasn't using it but I never heard of using a return bypass line on one, maybe it might be needed for high volume pumps though. 30 ltr min. sounds like a pretty high volume pump Check the specs to see what the max head height and free flow volume at that height would be, .because the pump looks huge form the picture

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Frank S

Not sure why you are worried about running the coolant back to the reservoir when the valve is closed. I've used aquarium pumps fountain pumps and swamp cooler pumps for cutting coolant for years Always had them wired so they could not be left on if the machine was not running but the pump switch could be switched off if I didn't want coolant. never had anything other than a valve on the coolant line to restrict flow. Those little plastic impeller centrifugal pumps always seemed perfectly happy running with the valve closed. the rubber impeller ones with a more positive volume/ pressure delivery not so much. but could get a couple years out of them even at that as long as I didn't leave them running against a closed valve for very long. I always prefer to have a pump run indicator light to remind me it was on of off when I wasn't using it but I never heard of using a return bypass line on one, maybe it might be needed for high volume pumps though. 30 ltr min. sounds like a pretty high volume pump Check the specs to see what the max head height and free flow volume at that height would be, .because the pump looks huge form the picture

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Hi Frank.

Im not worried about the pump.
Bypass valve is also for "shaking" the coolant.
I use emulsion that is 96% water 4% concentrate.
It starts to separate after couple weeks if not proberly shaked.
With bypass valve i can let the pump do the job, instead of mixing them in the bucket or something.
Also it works for adjusting flowing speed, if necessary.
But i think with drilling, i can use the same setting with all drillings that i do. So, mostly valve is for mixing the coolant. ( little more effective way, when it doesn't need to run through whole system)

After consulting our cats, i decided that it is better to attach pan proberly to the drill. :)

Attachment 22269 Attachment 22270

3D print and M5 inserts.

Really Nice clamp from a 3D print, Tuomas. Excellent addition!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by PJs

Really Nice clamp from a 3D print, Tuomas. Excellent addition!

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Thanks buddy!

I decided to make my own container for the coolant.

Material is 3mm stainless 316. Very simple design, should house 20 litres. I tought i'll print the latch with fillport and hose fittings to the top. I have used 3d printer with this so much anyway.

Attachment 22309
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Welds with tig using 78A current and 3.2mm additive.
More pictures when prints are ready.

Edit: Design for the top plate.

Attachment 22315

Estimated printing time 16hrs. :)

Nice quick threads on the cap...but a LOOONG print. :cool:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by PJs

Nice quick threads on the cap...but a LOOONG print. :cool:

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Thanks buddy! Now its done. Finally.
Works nicely. Video comes someday... maybe.

Attachment 22351
Attachment 22352

Prints made with dremel 3d40, larger ones with tevo tornado.
Other material stainless 316 steel. Welds with tig. Welds cleaned after welding with HNO3.

Beautiful build and glad it all works nicely Tuomas! Looks like the prints came out perfect. Can't believe the quality of welds on the tank!! I've never heard of using Nitric acid to clean up welds on stainless. We used to use an electrolysis wand on our SS welds but it wasn't a HNO3 solution...not sure what it was and have CRS (can't remember stuff) anymore.

Looked it up and it appears to be for passivization and coarse descaling. Here is a good article from the Nickel Institute. Learn something Every Day...my motto, thanks for the rabbit hole.

Quite an excellent set of builds for any small shop! Thanks for all the terrific builds you share, Tuomas!

:hattip: ~PJ

Quote:

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Originally Posted by PJs

Beautiful build and glad it all works nicely Tuomas! Looks like the prints came out perfect. Can't believe the quality of welds on the tank!! I've never heard of using Nitric acid to clean up welds on stainless. We used to use an electrolysis wand on our SS welds but it wasn't a HNO3 solution...not sure what it was and have CRS (can't remember stuff) anymore.

Looked it up and it appears to be for passivization and coarse descaling. Here is a good article from the Nickel Institute. Learn something Every Day...my motto, thanks for the rabbit hole.

Quite an excellent set of builds for any small shop! Thanks for all the terrific builds you share, Tuomas!

:hattip: ~PJ

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Thanks buddy.

Stainless 316 has so much chrome that it can be cleaned with "heavier" methods. Specially tig-welds, if welds ain't overheated and have no oxidation.. couple minutes bath is enough to clean it.

So, its very quick method... but needs special place and equipments to be safe. I can do it at work, we have special room for that purpose.

I make componets for the Valmet paper machines, most of them are stainless 316. So, its a familiar material for me.

Attachment 22358

Attachment 22359

Again.. happened, that i started to make simple version, but ended to remake nearly everything. :)

Well, it seems that its my way to do things.
Thank you for following my road! Even that it doesn't allways follow straightess route.

Edit:

Here's some pictures from the assembling:

Attachment 22360

Attachment 22361

Pump is laying on top of the foam, so it doesn't resonate.

Attachment 22362

Video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SdV_uo6Asc0

Thanks Tuomas, Paper machines are huge (got to be 8-10m) with a Wad of welding...holy kadudal. Always had a fascination with paper machines, very complex, handle a lot of weight and run at high speeds day in day out. Had a friend years ago that was a maintenance guy for them...Quite a machine system.

Thanks for the additional pics, video and the foam in the bottom was innovative noise dampening. Full Kudo's for your build, inspired by EW and his is very cool too...no pun intended. :thumbsup:

:hattip: ~PJ

Quote:

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Originally Posted by PJs

Thanks Tuomas, Paper machines are huge (got to be 8-10m) with a Wad of welding...holy kadudal. Always had a fascination with paper machines, very complex, handle a lot of weight and run at high speeds day in day out. Had a friend years ago that was a maintenance guy for them...Quite a machine system.

Thanks for the additional pics, video and the foam in the bottom was innovative noise dampening. Full Kudo's for your build, inspired by EW and his is very cool too...no pun intended. :thumbsup:

:hattip: ~PJ

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Thanks!

Time has passed wide paper machines. 15 years ago newspaper machines we're little over 12m and speed 2000m/min.
Now 8m is regular for cardboard and tissuepaper. Good thing is that those has more layers -> more headboxes, that brings more work for me. :) Also those are easier to build, slower speed -> lower pressure = doesn't need so strong, complex ( tight ) structure. We also make parts for the propulsion systems, gas turbines and windmill stators... I have worked 17 years at this workplace, somewhat 8 years with paper machines 7 years with propulsion systems and rest 2 years making whatever needs.

Bad thing is, that we are focused for big components, so making small parts for own use is sometimes difficult. 14mm wide hydraulic press or roller bender is somewhat useless when you want to make something small. Same with machining. So, i decided to slowly build my own shop. :)

Quote:

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Thanks!

Time has passed wide paper machines. 15 years ago newspaper machines we're little over 12m and speed 2000m/min.
Now 8m is regular for cardboard and tissuepaper. Good thing is that those has more layers -> more headboxes, that brings more work for me. Also those are easier to build, slower speed -> lower pressure = doesn't need so strong, complex ( tight ) structure. We also make parts for the propulsion systems, gas turbines and windmill stators... I have worked 17 years at this workplace, somewhat 8 years with paper machines 7 years with propulsion systems and rest 2 years making whatever needs.

Bad thing is, that we are focused for big components, so making small parts for own use is sometimes difficult. 14mm wide hydraulic press or roller bender is somewhat useless when you want to make something small. Same with machining. So, i decided to slowly build my own shop.

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From the size of the I-Beam and spreader bar above I would call them substantial and heavy with a lot of welding/fab. You are definitely a master craftsman, IMHO and building your own shop and multipurpose tools is a pleasure for me/us! Thanks for sharing all that about the printing machine info. :hattip:

Btw... i said in the video that Dremel printer wasn't so reliable as it should.

This was one thing that happened..

Attachment 22416

This problem was fixed with strong douple sided tape. But that feels stupid, to pay 18$ from a sticker that has so weak glue that it doesn't fill its purpose.

It also stopped printing two times before parts we're ready, without known reason. It has done it before many times.
So i decided to change cheaper and easier to control / modify printer. Somekind of bug on my dremel 3d40, just doesn't know how to fix it.

Man that is a mess Tuomas and to have it stop repeatedly...unacceptable. Sometimes tape can deteriorate with age or improper storage but you are right $18 is PRICEY and shouldn't be that proprietary. Have you contacted Dremel about the problems? Does it have a heated bed and did it give you any fault codes when it stopped? They have them at Home Depot here and been eyeballing them because you had one...I'll pass now I think unless they help you out properly.

Thanks for the heads up! :hattip:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by PJs

Man that is a mess Tuomas and to have it stop repeatedly...unacceptable. Sometimes tape can deteriorate with age or improper storage but you are right $18 is PRICEY and shouldn't be that proprietary. Have you contacted Dremel about the problems? Does it have a heated bed and did it give you any fault codes when it stopped? They have them at Home Depot here and been eyeballing them because you had one...I'll pass now I think unless they help you out properly.

Thanks for the heads up! :hattip:

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Yep. And those we're new tapes... I try to contact dremel if there's update for the firmware? I didn't found any with google tough.

3D45 model has a heated platform, it also allows use of abs, nylon and pla. My 40 model has no heating and its for pla use only. ( avoids warranty if other used) Otherwise its really good printer, accurate and very easy to use. I hope there's fix for that stopping issue. I have tried with different flash drives, and uploaded file's directly to the printer via wlan. It hasn't helped.

I also connected ups (UNINTERRUPTIBLE POWER SUPPLY (UPS))
To it from my pc, incase that there's some short power breaks at the night, that could affect. But no help from that either.

But, even that i could get my dremel working more reliable, im still happy that i bought new one. Tevo is arduino based, and it has some simple features that makes using it much interesting.

I found a simple way to attach objects inside prints, like nuts and bearings. That is usefull option imo, with dremel that can be done too, but its not so simple. ( not difficult either )

Edit:

To stay in subject.

I followed Frank's advice and rejected the surpassing system and placed valve directly to the end of the hose. Works nicely, and coolant gets mixed fast enough.


Attachment 22417

Quote:

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Originally Posted by PJs

Man that is a mess Tuomas and to have it stop repeatedly...unacceptable. Sometimes tape can deteriorate with age or improper storage but you are right $18 is PRICEY and shouldn't be that proprietary. Have you contacted Dremel about the problems? Does it have a heated bed and did it give you any fault codes when it stopped? They have them at Home Depot here and been eyeballing them because you had one...I'll pass now I think unless they help you out properly.

Thanks for the heads up! :hattip:

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My Dremel is fixed now.

And the reason was.. wood dust. It stucked the rails, and when printing head wasn't able to move. It stopped printing. So, that actually was my own fault, because i had used too sticky oil for greasing the slides. ��

Cleaned everything and used silicone spray to lubricate rails. That fixed it.

I oiled them in the first place, because it kept squirky noise in use.

And i plamed the printer. Now it works nicely.