cut 50 plasma cutter

Hi All
Help advice/needed please.
I am after some advice on Plasma cutters. I am in the market to possible buy one but I am looking at the lower end price bracket. Are these machines any good? I have looked on youtube but I know this will be a great place to get your views from guys that have used them in anger. The price is tempting but will I be wasting my money and would it be better to save up and buy a more expensive built machine? :headscratch:

I thank you all in advance for your time
The Home Engineer

I'm a hobby user and I purchased one from ALDI and it’s great for what I need. I guess the biggest question for you is what are you doing with it. If your cutting 5-6mm plate or bigger a lot then buy a “quality unit” but if it’s for occasional use and up to about 4-5mm thick then a cheaper unit will probably suit you. The things I have used it for are cutting out shapes in sheet metal for screens and cutting up metal table frames to scrap them. I did use a $2500 Lincoln plasma cutter and it’s the ducks nuts, cut through 10mm beams like a knife through butter but I couldn’t justify the cost for me. To be honest I could get away without one as I don’t use it as much as I thought I would. I tried to cut a 90mm hole in thin stainless steel with a metal hole saw. It stuffed the saw and barely touched the stainless and then I remembered the plasma cutter, told you it doesn’t get used much, and had the hole cut in less than 30 seconds. If it’s general cutting of flat bar, tube, square section in the shed then I would opt for a horizontal band saw, even a second had one. I bought a used one and it gets used almost daily and for cutting out straight cuts in plate steel then I tend to use the grinder as I can get a better edge. It’s very much like cutting with oxy acetylene but much faster in that it’s hard to get a nice edge unless you’re fairly experienced and use it often. Sorry it got so long winded. One more thing if you buy a cheapie, try and make sure it uses generic consumables that you can get easily on line as proprietary parts can be expensive. Hope this helps a little and good luck. Cheers Stuart, Australia.

I have been running a Cut50 for about 3 years. I did get the hi freq start model for about another 100USD.....consumables last longer. It has been chugging along faithfully and I have to admit I don't treat it delicately. Personally, I am quite happy with it.

I might add that about 15 or 20 years ago, I used 3 different name brand ($$$$$$) machines. They were being repaired more than used. I sometimes ran them from a generator, so that may be a cause, but I was disappointed. Maybe technology has improved.

You really want one that has a pilot arc rather than scratch start (it costs a sawbuck more) because scratch start goes through consumables much quicker. I've read good things about Primeweld units and the company too. They all need a good supply of dry, oil free air so plan on investing in a supplemental air drier.

I'm on that particular fence too but for now I'm getting by with an angle grinder and a good straight edge or if I can I use my Portaband saw. I view a plasma cutter as a cutting torch equivalent without the empty bottle shuffle but because I also need to heat treat home made cutters a torch actually makes more sense for me.

All things considered a bandsaw is the fastest because it cuts quickly and there's usually little edge cleanup required afterwards.

about 4 years ago I purchased the Eastwood combo 175 mig, 40 plasma and have been more than happy with both. the one thing that was most important is that you purchase what ever you buy from a company that provides customer service.This past December I had an issue with my mig that was out of warranty. I contacted Eastwood and inquired if the part was available to make the repair and they found what I needed and sent it to me no charge, without any question. I use the plasma almost every weekend and have not had any issues. Its great that its a 110,220 volt unit clean dry air is a must, I added a small water trap inline on the unit. I recommend both eastwood products and their customer service.

Its like light bulbs, every one in a thousand can be a duffer. So if you hear bad feedback on these cheap and cheerful machines then that kind of gives you an idea, even those buying a Lincon can get a bad machine if they are unlucky. I have had a cut 50 for six years now and its had a fair bit of work on a cnc plasma table and given me very little grief. There is an issue with them regarding the arc gap in side the machine and is usually a massive cause as to why some hobbyists have had issues with them. basically they have come from the far east, been handled by truckers and Dockers and expected to perform brilliantly first time when they have not exactly been built to any quality standard. The main issue is that they wont strike an arc and its down to either the arc gap not being set (approximately 0.65mm) or duff consumables - sound weird but i have changed out consumables and for some reason they just wont work. Point proven by trying another set of consumables. Pilot arc over scratch start, if your not able to hold the torch gap up above the work piece and drag it over every surface you cut you will ream through consumables but if you can maintain a good arc gap after striking the arc you will find the consumable will actually last a reasonable length of time. i find consumables last me for at least 3 to 4 8ft x 4ft sheets (1.8mm mild steel) of cutting work over a three day period no bother at all, but im not too bothered about the precision of the cut /Kurf ?. Basically go for it, take a punt.

Like Crusty and others have mentioned dry air is a must as indeed is air, you feel a right plonker if you go to cut stuff and you have forgotten to open the air valve on the compressor. Funnily enough it wont arc then either.

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Originally Posted by jts1012

about 4 years ago I purchased the Eastwood combo 175 mig, 40 plasma and have been more than happy with both. the one thing that was most important is that you purchase what ever you buy from a company that provides customer service.This past December I had an issue with my mig that was out of warranty. I contacted Eastwood and inquired if the part was available to make the repair and they found what I needed and sent it to me no charge, without any question. I use the plasma almost every weekend and have not had any issues. Its great that its a 110,220 volt unit clean dry air is a must, I added a small water trap inline on the unit. I recommend both eastwood products and their customer service.

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I purchased an Eastwood Versacut 60 a few years back and after about a year it failed and Eastwood paid for shipping back and sent me a new one right away. Good customer service. I haven`t used it all that much yet, mostly due to it being easier to use several other cutting options I have such as a Milwaukee steel cutting circular saw, portable bandsaw, cutting torch, etc but I am rearranging and making it easier to put into use at a minutes`s notice.

Whats the set up for filters on plasma cutters to remove moisture from air? What type of filters should be used in home use? I have a new plasma cutter and 150L compressor but not sure on filter set up.

Thanks Scrounga.
I think your post was spot on.

Don't forget the chop saw. For bar, pipe, and limited plate it's quick and clean. I've had my Milwaukee for nearly 20 years without a problem. For cutting intricate shapes from material up to about 1/16" I use a jig saw with a metal cutting blade. Not as fast as plasma or ox/ac but very controllable.

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Originally Posted by MrMetal

Don't forget the chop saw. For bar, pipe, and limited plate it's quick and clean. I've had my Milwaukee for nearly 20 years without a problem. For cutting intricate shapes from material up to about 1/16" I use a jig saw with a metal cutting blade. Not as fast as plasma or ox/ac but very controllable.

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I have the same saw but a Dewalt. 14" carbide blade lasts forever and no stink and smoke from a cutoff disc type saw.

On the note, I picked up a diamond coated cut off wheel for a 4-1/4" angle grinder. We did a ton of cutting on everything from 1/4" wall tube to sheet metal while building a race car over the last few months. It lasted at least the same as 30-40 abrasive cut off wheels. And again, no stink and smoke and no busted wheels. Highly recommended if you use cut off wheels a lot.

A plasma is on my list. What is the difference between scratch start and HF start? Is it the same as the old scratch start tig welders?

I wonder if anyone makes one that can use a TIG/stick welder as a power source? I have an giant old L-Tec Heliarc 306 in great condition that I could use for a power source if someone makes such a beast.



EDIT: I just did some research, it could be done, maybe, but cheaper and easier to buy a plasma cutter...

I bought a thermal dynamics 40 amp plasma about 15 years ago and it has cut up several old trucks and car bodies besides the general cut out a shape quickly sort of deals. I cut out cardboard templates to trace with the plasma and they last through several cuts before thy get too burnt on the edges. Whatever you get, check the price of consumables. Mine are expensive compared to the off shore versions. I paid about 1600 for mine. It saves a LOT of gas expense for the torches. I still keep the O/A torch setup for heating and cutting bigger stuff. I use a 55 gallon drum with a drain grate on top for a cutting table outside the shop. I drilled a few holes about 6" from the bottom to keep it from filling with rain water. I permanently attached a ground lead to the table so I can just uncoil that and connect it to the ground. I have 3 water traps before my plasma connection and I have never found water in the second or third traps. My shop is plumbed for air with PEX and I made the water traps out of 2" square tube with ends welded on and tapped for into out of and drain. There is also a water trap/filter right on the machine. I have only had to change that filter once in all the years I have had it. That was from loaning it out to somebody with a dirty compressor and no water traps.

Scratch start vs HF start - same as TIG, which also eats electrodes pretty quick.

I forgot to mention that I've also got an Evolution 14" cold saw that does a pretty good job but I'm a little bit scared of it and so I don't use it often.

For angle grinder wheels, I like the Makita very thin cutoff wheels. They wear quickly but so does the steel that they're going through. I buy them by the box to get the cost down.

In a world in which I won the lotto I'd own every type of metal cutting solution mentioned in this thread.

Dont forget you can do your compressor maintenance. Dont forget to drain the water out of your compressor every now and then it ensures you arnt outputing as much moist air. Checking for leaks is always a good idea, it saves you money. dont forget to check you have oil in the compressor if it has an oil resovoir for lubricating the pump.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MrMetal

Don't forget the chop saw. For bar, pipe, and limited plate it's quick and clean. I've had my Milwaukee for nearly 20 years without a problem. For cutting intricate shapes from material up to about 1/16" I use a jig saw with a metal cutting blade. Not as fast as plasma or ox/ac but very controllable.

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Right, I forgot my chopsaw, saber saw, sawzall, and several right angle grinders

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Originally Posted by Crusty

In a world in which I won the lotto I'd own every type of metal cutting solution mentioned in this thread.

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With exception of a laser and a water jet or anything CNC I pretty much have all the rest.
My first plasma cutter was a Hypertherm torch with a Linde power supply must have weighed 300 lbs and the size of a steamer trunk seams like it was around 4 grand it was so sensitive that it had a double toilet paper filter for the air about as portable as a forklift with square wheels. Then I bought a little Hobart 35 120/240v on 120v it would cut possibly 3/16" if you took your time but it would slice through gage metal up to 12ga like butter it too had a hypertherm torch and only around $1,800.00
the one I have now is a larger unit but not as bulky as the first one I had it is a Miller Spectrum 701 I have cut as thick as 3/4" with it but when cutting anything that thick there is just no substitute for a good old Victor contractor torch.
I've never owned a scratch start plasma but often drag the miller plasma torch on the surface I haven't noticed a lot of difference in the consumables doing this.

When you need to cut the thick stuff

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rSpXJJ-ris8

I saw one demonstrated drilling a nice hole through a big rock.

I used to use a lance to remove frozen pins from buckets and dozer blades by lancing through from 1 end to the other removing a large portion of the body of the pin then blasting liquid CO2 through the hole the sudden quick cooling of the hot pin would shrink it enough to be easily tapped out with a hammer. Pretty good considering a 300 ton pin press wouldn't budge it prior to lancing, but a 6 lb shop hammer would knock the pin right out afterwards

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Originally Posted by Andyt

Whats the set up for filters on plasma cutters to remove moisture from air? What type of filters should be used in home use? I have a new plasma cutter and 150L compressor but not sure on filter set up.

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For most of the newer plasma cutters if you drain the tank regularly and have a water trap drop canister where the air enters from the top through a tube than extends down into the trap several inches and has a couple of perforated disks the air has to pass through before exiting the top of the trap the goes to an inline filter like those used for paint guns at a regulator then this will be sufficient. Older early generation plasma cutters were ultra sensitive to any moisture some even required bottled gas that had been scrubbed dried and purified to establish a stable plasma stream.
I use my Miller Spectrum all the time without even having a filter other than the small canister filter inside the machine with a little 120 volt 5 hp compressor

Thank you for all the advice.
i have taken on board that a pilot arc is the way forward and to check the availability and cost of consumable spares. Unfortunately like most items for the workshop it comes down to cost and how often the item will be used. At the present time I think I am a causal user but who knows what the future jobs that will turn up in the workshop.
I think I am going to take a chance on a cut 50 with pilot arc.
Great response to my question so thank you all
The Home Engineer

I purchased a Cut 50 a couple of years ago that was suppose to be pilot arc that was not. The seller rebated a C note and I've had no other complaints. I've left it outside for days on end to walk out and make a cut or two even in the rain. (It is under a roof.) It has taken a few (<10) sets of consumables to learn to use. But I have little trouble cutting 3/8 inch X 6 in a couple of minutes. I did make a guide track for very straight cuts as required but after a bit can freehand most of them. When you get comfortable with it you can draw on thin sheet. Learning amperage/pressure combinations can be tedious. I dont think everything has to be cut at max/max. To provide dry air I built an aftercooler followed by a medium sized water separator with an auto drain that keeps up even in the 90°f + summer temps and 95% relative h humidity we get here (midwest USA). Good luck and hope you like your plasma as well as I like mine.