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Cutting roof sheet with wire.
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Previously:
https://www.homemadetools.net/forum/...040#post230132
https://www.homemadetools.net/forum/...962#post229913
https://www.homemadetools.net/forum/...277#post200023
https://www.homemadetools.net/forum/...883#post194488
https://www.homemadetools.net/forum/...048#post172013
WOW amazing that anyone would post this. :)
When I was in high school, me and a buddy of mine used an old piece of bicycle brake cable to do this to the windshield on his car. We pushed the cable through the windshield adhesive, one was on the inside of the car and one was on the hood. Then we just pulled the cable back and forth, the whole way around the windshield to break the glue seam. I can't remember if we ended up getting the windshield out in one piece. If I were to hazard a guess I would say we did not.
It's a tool that works, why do you need so much attention?Quote:
Originally Posted by dbat74
Probably around 29 gauge. Don't think it would work with much thicker. Seems you would have to snip the metal at the start to prevent it from just bending the sheet.
The wire idea is not a bad one, but you really don't need the wire, just score a line with a box knife then rip the sheet by holding down 1 edge and pulling up on the other.
That is how I acquired a 6" scar on my lower leg. Pull up the sheet to rip and step forward to progress. After awhile, you can rip a sheet following a sharpie line without needing to score the sheet. A moment of inattention however, and that ripped edge is like a razor blade. I felt it bounce off of my shin bone, but it was so sharp, there was no pain. I used to put up metal buildings in Texas "Pakastani style" wearing shorts.....but not sandals. Would not change a thing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank S
I have removed lots of windshields from cars like that. I worked a couple years in an auto salvage yard. We all carried a roll of music wire, in our yard buggies. Very seldom broke one. It just take patience. Seemed like the only ones we ever broke were the "one of a kind" models where it was the only one we had in the yard. NEVER broke one if there were multiples available.Quote:
Originally Posted by nova_robotics
I'm not even sure Gillette can make their razor blades as sharp as roofing metal that has been ripped to size. I used to use a straight edge and a box knife to score the length of a sheet then fold up[ and down a couple times to break off the excess at the end of a roof. No power tool can cut faster. I've used circular saws with the blade on backwards. Does a great job but even military noise canceling ear muffs can't reduce than noise to a comfort level for me.Quote:
Originally Posted by odd one
Your not joking about that noise. I do not think I have ever created a louder racket than that, not to mention the shrapnel that it would throw even with an enclosed metal saw. I ended up buying a guillotine type sheer with the dies/blades of the profile of metal that I used....but that had its own issues.Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank S
Did yours have a good clamp down for the sheet? I bought one that didn't have a good clamp. After I made a full profile clamp for it and converted it to hydraulic instead of manual it became a pleasure to cut dozens of sheets per day. We had it mounted on the rear of a trailer.Quote:
Originally Posted by odd one
Can you elaborate on that? This trick is new to me but it sounds super interesting. I'm guessing you were not using carbide tipped blades?Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank S
Cutting sheet goods with a circular saw requires negative rake on the tooth. You can buy specific blades designed for steel. Putting a regular blade on backward gives you that negative rake. A regular blade on backward works almost as good as the special metal cutting carbide blade for 1/4 to 1/3 the cost.
I save my dull/damaged carbide blades for things like this.
I figured for sure if you ran a carbide tipped blade backwards it would just shatter the carbides or rip them off of the brazing. With most carbide cutters if you keep them in compression they'll last ages, but the second they go into tension they just bust to pieces. Well that's just super interesting. I may try that some day. Thank you.Quote:
Originally Posted by hemmjo
As hemmjo said above, it works pretty well with carbide-tipped blades that are damaged and no longer useful for normal cutting. There isn't much of an issue with teeth shattering or breaking loose, but it does happen occasionally. A reversed blade cutting through the bottom of the sheet kind of deflects the debris. Wear your safety sandals and put all your thumbs up. It's also loud as all heck, but fast.Quote:
Originally Posted by nova_robotics
No not carbide tipped. A regular blade preferably one you would rather throw away than think about sharpening Just install it backwards and go for it.Quote:
Originally Posted by nova_robotics
I've used chainsaws as demolition saws by flipping the chain and bar upside down to cut a door into the side of a building.