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Thread: Different type of shaft key (Dutch Key)

  1. #11
    Supporting Member thehomeengineer's Avatar
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    thehomeengineer's Tools
    I am not sure what the standard name for this fixing is now. I guess we could give it an international standard via homemadetools. Any ideas please post (funnier the better)
    The Home Engineer

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    Supporting Member tonyfoale's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rasta View Post
    Hi Tony; I have fitted many of them to shafts in the industry, here in OZ are called Scotch keys?
    Scotch key. Now that rings a bell, must be my Ozzie upbringing.

  3. #13
    Supporting Member thehomeengineer's Avatar
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    thehomeengineer's Tools
    Hi All
    This post via Wikipedia explains all about different types of keys:
    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Key_(engineering)

    I also saw this on the web:Dutch Pins: How To? - Page 3

    A "Scotch key" or "Dutch key" also provides a keyway not by milling but by drilling axially into the part and the shaft, so that a round key can be used. If the key is tapered, it is referred to as a "Dutch pin" and is driven in, and generally cut off flush with the end of the shaft. A Hirth joint is similar to a Spline joint but with the teeth on the butt of the shaft instead of on the surface.

    Now I'm curious. I can see "scotch key" meaning "cheap-ass key" but I'm wondering where "dutch" comes from.

    -Roland McPhearson (Cheap-ass)
    So it appears they are both correct. You never stop learning!
    The Home Engineer
    Last edited by thehomeengineer; Jan 16, 2018 at 06:16 AM. Reason: Edit text

  4. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to thehomeengineer For This Useful Post:

    Captainleeward (Jan 16, 2018), Toolmaker51 (Jan 17, 2018)

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    Supporting Member Toolmaker51's Avatar
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    I believe 'dutch' might mean practical but workmanlike, alternative method. Once, I had double-hung window sills to replace that had decayed. Upper surface was OK, underside was splintered and ragged. A carpenter told me, make a "dutchman". Unstable pine wood was pared down to solid material by 4" power-saw, chisel and bullnose plane. Then replaced with poplar, then contours were shaped and painted like original. A little tedious working upside down, back in 1981. They are still in place, indistinguishable from original.

    I'm not Scottish, but know a few...they are not the stereotypical cheap, they just get a lot of bang for the buck. And unlike some cultures, their products are first rate. True cheapskates don't do that!
    Sincerely,
    Toolmaker51
    ...we'll learn more by wandering than searching...

  6. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Toolmaker51 For This Useful Post:

    Paul Jones (Jan 18, 2018), thehomeengineer (Jan 18, 2018)

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    Browing firearms use this technique to lock screws into place, take a look at the original Browning A5 shotgun and you will see lots of them.
    As mentioned, not the strongest lock, but more than adequate on the shotguns.

  8. #16
    Supporting Member carl blum's Avatar
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    Hi Gang:
    I made a soft faced hammer in trade school, back in 1973. The head and handle were threaded together and I didn't want them to un-screw. So I drilled and tapped for a set screw. Fifty years later the head is still tight. I would think the torque capacity would be quite good. The set screw could be tighter than most square keys are fitted and the shear strength of a hardened set screw should be higher than a mild steel key.
    Carl.



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