Different type of shaft key (Dutch Key)

Hi All

This is the method I have used on several projects to lock a nut to a piece of studding or a plain collar to a shaft (If placed at the end of a shaft) etc. I used this method to lock the wheels to the axles on a 5" gauge loco I built. It is easier than broach, cutting a keyway and then having to make the key as well as then having to drill and tap a hole in the coupling or collar to prevent it from sliding along the shaft. Not only does it secure both the nut to the studding not allowing it to move but it also creates a good drive key. The key is a grub screw which fits into a tapped hole drilled on the centreline/edge of both the shaft and nut, See photo.
I am sure there will be a few of you who can take advantage of this simple and quick method.

Please note that if you are putting a lot of torque into a shaft I would advise you use the correct key for the shaft diameter being used and not this method.

Thank you again for taking the time to view
The Home Engineer
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Your 'Dutch Key', we call them screw keys but they are prevalent in many types of machinery.
They appear on light to medium load shafts and especially handwheels. Why handwheels? Because there usually is a panel behind, with shafts supported farther inboard. So any inspection or repair progress is hindered minimally in removing panel, handwheels reattached for adjustments etc.

Nice idea, never seen that before. Seems like every day I find more tips and techniques here.

Cheers, JR

I think I will be trying it very soon. I have a 5 inch 1 inch thick steel disc I will be putting a shaft into real soon.
Nelson

I have often used this technique but I never knew that it had its own name, Dutch Key.
In order to ensure a balanced load between shaft and housing I often use 3 screws. Of course it also increases the torque capacity. Instead of the obvious 120 deg even spacing I always offset one screw so that it is say 110 and 130 deg from the other two. This ensures that if it has been disassembled it can only go back together as it was.

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Originally Posted by tonyfoale

I have often used this technique but I never knew that it had its own name, Dutch Key.
In order to ensure a balanced load between shaft and housing I often use 3 screws. Of course it also increases the torque capacity. Instead of the obvious 120 deg even spacing I always offset one screw so that it is say 110 and 130 deg from the other two. This ensures that if it has been disassembled it can only go back together as it was.

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Good point tonyfoale. Equally spaced holes can be difficult to re-insert fasteners of most any type. Especially threads where the helix of each half become individuals when out of the original phasing.
I'd recommend readers alter the spacing as you mention, or at least indicate correct position with pip marks.
It also helps where shaft or hub have some type of shoulder registering the axial position...

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Originally Posted by Toolmaker51

It also helps where shaft or hub have some type of shoulder registering the axial position...

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One of the advantages of the Dutch Keys is that when you don't have a shoulder the axial location is tied to the thread, at least within the pitch of the screw and it is usually obvious if you are a pitch or more out of position.

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Originally Posted by tonyfoale

One of the advantages of the Dutch Keys is that when you don't have a shoulder the axial location is tied to the thread, at least within the pitch of the screw and it is usually obvious if you are a pitch or more out of position.

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Perfectly true Tony. I'd point out that difficulty isn't prevalent in careful work.
We find Dutch Keys/ Screw Keys infuriating when the drilling and tapping was not so carefully done. Most often is substitution of tap drill sizes, and/or whether drilling - tapping were held within decent perpendicularity. I suspect many hand done with a portable drill, which also means hole centerline may not be precise junction of shaft and bore.
The shop joke was "that machine is impersonating so and so, [a mechanic] sounds just like him!".
One soon leaned to punch mark orientation BEFORE teardown.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by tonyfoale

I have often used this technique but I never knew that it had its own name, Dutch Key.
In order to ensure a balanced load between shaft and housing I often use 3 screws. Of course it also increases the torque capacity. Instead of the obvious 120 deg even spacing I always offset one screw so that it is say 110 and 130 deg from the other two. This ensures that if it has been disassembled it can only go back together as it was.

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Hi Tony; I have fitted many of them to shafts in the industry, here in OZ are called Scotch keys?

I am not sure what the standard name for this fixing is now. I guess we could give it an international standard via homemadetools. Any ideas please post (funnier the better)
The Home Engineer

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Originally Posted by rasta

Hi Tony; I have fitted many of them to shafts in the industry, here in OZ are called Scotch keys?

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Scotch key. Now that rings a bell, must be my Ozzie upbringing.

Hi All
This post via Wikipedia explains all about different types of keys:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Key_(engineering)

I also saw this on the web:Dutch Pins: How To? - Page 3

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A "Scotch key" or "Dutch key" also provides a keyway not by milling but by drilling axially into the part and the shaft, so that a round key can be used. If the key is tapered, it is referred to as a "Dutch pin" and is driven in, and generally cut off flush with the end of the shaft. A Hirth joint is similar to a Spline joint but with the teeth on the butt of the shaft instead of on the surface.

Now I'm curious. I can see "scotch key" meaning "cheap-ass key" but I'm wondering where "dutch" comes from.

-Roland McPhearson (Cheap-ass)

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So it appears they are both correct. You never stop learning!
The Home Engineer

I believe 'dutch' might mean practical but workmanlike, alternative method. Once, I had double-hung window sills to replace that had decayed. Upper surface was OK, underside was splintered and ragged. A carpenter told me, make a "dutchman". Unstable pine wood was pared down to solid material by 4" power-saw, chisel and bullnose plane. Then replaced with poplar, then contours were shaped and painted like original. A little tedious working upside down, back in 1981. They are still in place, indistinguishable from original.

I'm not Scottish, but know a few...they are not the stereotypical cheap, they just get a lot of bang for the buck. And unlike some cultures, their products are first rate. True cheapskates don't do that!

Browing firearms use this technique to lock screws into place, take a look at the original Browning A5 shotgun and you will see lots of them.
As mentioned, not the strongest lock, but more than adequate on the shotguns.