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How to make your own Threaded insert (Helicoil)
Using a cheap drill press,
a M12 bolt,
Ø 8.5mm & Ø 10.2mm drill bits,
M10 & M12 taps.
By following the same way,
you can make any helicoil with an acceptable combination of threads.
Attachment 7074
https://youtu.be/ng7OdRUD0G8
Thanks kess! We've added your Threaded Insert to our Tapping and Threading category, as well as to your builder page: kess' Homemade Tools. Your receipt:
<div id="blocks"> <div class="block b1 pngfix"> <div class="bimg"> <div> <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/threaded-insert-2"><img src="http://www.homemadetools.net/uploads/138142/threaded-insert-2.jpeg" /></a></div> </div> <div class="head pngfix"></div> <div class="left pngfix"></div> <div class="right pngfix"></div> <div class="blockover b1 pngfix"> <div class="title"> <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/threaded-insert-2">Threaded Insert</a> <span> by <a href="/builder/kess">kess</a></span> </div> <div class="tags">tags: <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/tag/threading">threading</a></div> </div> </div> </div>
I've done this many times. One word of advice is to use the highest grade of bolt you can buy.The threads will be cleaner and stronger for the repair.
I usually like to drill a couple of 1/16" or 1.5 mm holes in thread line of the insert and the part being retreaded then driving in a short piece of rod into the drilled holes this will lock the insert into the part. Another advantage of using these DIY inserts is you can make a much longer insert than even an extended length coil thread.
The solid wall DIY inserts will resemble Ez-lock inserts more than the heli coil brand Both have advantages and disadvantages
Advantage of the Heli coil style is the thread will be the same pitch both inside and out side.
advantage of a solid wall type insert is any outside pitch may be used. This helps when you need to repair a fine thread that has been stripped simply use a large enough coarse thread bolt that will have sufficient wall thickness to leave a solid wall in the insert after the inside thread is tapped.
Brilliant!
Wish I'd thought of this, especially the centering method.
Thanks,
Tyler
Thanks for your time to complete my post.
Yes I know your method and I have used it many times at past, making two holes one the start and the other at the end point of the diameter at the line circle of thread insert and body.
Usually I use stainless steel rods but if haven't ss at the needed dia, then use hardened steel nails of cable retainer clips.
The video was produced with two basic aims,
i. A how to set up a cheap drill press (all these cheap drill presses working out of 0 point at least by 1~2 degrees)
ii. A how to drill a bold absolutely center without a lathe, and make your own threaded insert.
Happy New Year
Bill
Interesting- but there is no way to guarantee that the internal and external threads will be "in sync" (peak to peak and valley to valley) as your diagram shows.
If you try for the thinnest insert - you might end up going through a lot of bolts...
I think Frank S covered that in his reply, I to have used this method on an XT Yamaha which had all the engine cover threads just about stripped out in the soft alloy crankcase. I used 8mm down to 6mm in brass inserts but I had the benefit of a lathe.
Hi imohtep56
You are right there is no way to sync the threads and especially when the inner and outer thread has different pitch (M10x1.5mm /M12x1.75mm).
The thickness between threads it was very thin but I decided to give a try and see if can be done.
The closer shop it was 150 km away from my place and for only one threaded insert it was waste of time. I had used two bolts M12x1.75x35mm for one correct threaded inserts at about 17~18mm length from each one. We have sync (peak /valley) about every 17mm with a random distance from the start point of cutting.
Attachment 20475
A great video, Kess. It could not be clearer. I will be using your method the next time I need to repair a stripped thread..
Thanks for posting this.
brianhw
Hi brianhw,
Glad that you like it.
It is always amazing what can be made up when in a pinch. I experienced a similar deal and for some reason could not find my 7/16 20 die. I needed a sleeve to thread on a ball joint for my garden tractor. The machine was made with 1/2 20 male and female, but the parts house could only find the 1/2 for the rod end the other was 7/16 20 thread and I need to bring it up to .500. and about .300 thick. after several tries it worked. Love a challenge.
Nelson
Hi Nelson,Quote:
Originally Posted by ncollar
Necessity is the mother of invention.
I guess that is the reason this is my favorite site. There are a lot of talent out there and people sharing freely.
That is the best thing.
Nelson
Great bunch of members
Hi, Some quick help. I saw your video and made some inserts. Much easier than I thought. Need to put inserts into alluminiun motorcycle head. Will steel react with the alluminium at high heat. How do I "lock" the inserts into the head.
Thanks,
Peter.
Hi Peter,Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterJ
You can use a thread sealing glue applicable for high temperatures
but I haven't tried it till now
it is only a thought on my mind.
But before proceed you need to confirm that the threads into aluminum head or at your insert it is correct.
Regards
I have used my DIY thread inserts to repair cracks in bolt holes of the blocks of antique engine blocks where the boss of the bolt hole would be in the water jacket.
How I did this was to drill and tap to a larger size mix a heat resistant epoxy, apply to the thread then screw the bolt into the hole cut it flush with the surface, drill my locking pin holes in between the edges of the threads drive in the locking pins allow it to completely cure then drill and tap to the appropriate thread size.
Each persons repair needed is going to be a different scenario. No 2 repairs will ever be just alike even when using off the shelf repair inserts
This is the most clever thing I've seen all day.
Glad that you like it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Elizabeth Greene
