The punch marl looks slightly to the right not centered.
Ralph
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The punch marl looks slightly to the right not centered.
Ralph
It looks like it is off center and also lower, due to the tilt of the camera (perspective illusion), but it is perfectly centered (is the best my old hands can do). Thanks Ralphxyz!
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Thanks, I am currently trying to get some precise holes drilled, I think I will make up something similar.
How did you make the orientation slots? They look real fine.
Ralph
The tool and method are explained here in another post (https://www.homemadetools.net/forum/...-caliper-82534). But there are other options, for example, attach to the chuck lathe and make the divisions using the plate's own fixing nut. You can also use a saw disk as a template (here are some examples) or a dividing head. If you do not have any of these features, then the old tracing method should be used. Thanks again Ralphxyz!
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It was the orientation lines on the center punch that I wondered how you made.
Of course I want to know how you inscribed the scale on your Marking Gauge Caliper.
Ralph
I made it on the milling machine, with the help of a dividing head (this head I have shown here too). I attached the tool (photo) to the mandrel and moved the X axis by 6.0mm. After the process, I painted with black automotive paint and sanded (mesh 220) on the lathe. It was very easy and fast! But as I said, you can use other methods if you don't have a splitter or a milling machine...
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Thanks, I have a mill and a dividing head.
Do you always wear gloves? I have seen much criticism over wearing gloves in the shop.
Ralph
I have also seen it suggested to push out with the scribe not in, pushing out does not leave a burr, makes a cleaner line.
Ralph
When I have irritated skin, I use gloves, because I have skin problems (I rarely operate the machine in motion using gloves). Cutting from the inside out is a little more difficult, as the tool needs to dive into the part. I prefer to cut from the outside in, the burrs can be easily removed with sandpaper.