Ejector for Short Tapers in Tailstocks

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Nov 1, 2022, 08:11 PM
Toolmaker51

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Ejector for Short Tapers in Tailstocks

I don't have a viable explanation for short or tang-less Morse tapers, admittedly handy when a long part impedes swap of the common version.

This Lodge & Shipley VS-20 lathe's tailstock is MT5. Some tooling is short and not only fails to eject, it occurs right at the travel limit, and can jam the handwheel/ quill. For every new user of this machine, this causes a lot of stress.

The block simply takes up space between back of tool and front of tailstock without damage to any components, and provides ejection otherwise

It couldn't be any more crude, a corner of flame cut plate simply drilled-faced and bored off center, then milled to centerline for the 2 slots.
Attachment 44038 Attachment 44039 Attachment 44040
If you machine one, start by finding worst offending taper you have. Retract the empty quill lightly to when it bottoms out. Insert that toolholder just as lightly then move quill out until taper seats. Gauge the distance from back of tool to face of tailstock, add half turn of travel.
The resulting dimension is thickness to finish web of the tool seat.

PS. Just noticed I orientated last pic incorrectly. The counterbored slot fits over tailstock quill, a good distance before the ACME feed screw bottoms out, not as shown, facing the tooling.
So much for only two hands and "Cheese" shutter trigger.
Nov 2, 2022, 05:49 PM
mdhatter3

Very nice idea. Very simple. Have to remember this when I have this problem. Thanks
Nov 3, 2022, 01:55 AM
DIYer


Thanks Toolmaker51! We've added your Taper Extractor to our Machining category,
as well as to your builder page: Toolmaker51's Homemade Tools. Your receipt:

<div id="blocks"> <div class="block b1 pngfix"> <div class="bimg"> <div> <a href="https://www.homemadetools.net/homemade-taper-extractor"> <img src="/uploads/256891/homemade-taper-extractor.jpeg"/> </a> </div> </div> <div class="head pngfix"></div> <div class="left pngfix"></div> <div class="right pngfix"></div> <div class="blockover b1 pngfix"> <div class="title"> <a href="https://www.homemadetools.net/homemade-taper-extractor">Taper Extractor</a> <span> by <a href="https://www.homemadetools.net/builder/Toolmaker51">Toolmaker51</a></span> </div> <div class="tags">tags: <a href='https://www.homemadetools.net/tag/extractor'>extractor</a>, <a href='https://www.homemadetools.net/tag/taper'>taper</a> </div> </div> </div> </div>
Nov 4, 2022, 03:35 AM
Toolmaker51

Quote:

Originally Posted by mdhatter3

Very nice idea. Very simple. Have to remember this when I have this problem. Thanks

Thank you and welcome mdhatter3. The short taper thing is an old puzzle, including why it seems that larger tapers fall into this. Can't recall need for such 'device' on 1# or 2's.
Nov 4, 2022, 07:10 AM
Frank S

I can't say that I have had this problem on larger lathes with the #5 taper some of the lathes I've been around with #3&4 had the key slots in the tail stock quill like found on drill presses were not short or tangless taper friendly even had the problem on a drill press once when I used a short taper dead center as a means of centering up on an existing hole to solve this I made a secondary key with a protrusion on 1 side and not as tall as the key so I could insert the one with te4h nub facing the end of the taper then drive the regular key in above it that was the only way possible to remove the dead center as there was no shoulder to bump against.
Nov 6, 2022, 03:04 PM
tonyfoale

I have some MT2 with short shanks. I have a MT5 to 5C collet sleeve, other than belting it on the end, which I object to, there was no method to eject it from the head stock. I made a similar "ejector" for that.
Nov 6, 2022, 10:23 PM
Improvised DIY

Brilliant! :idea:
Nov 7, 2022, 06:28 PM
nova_robotics

Quote:

Originally Posted by Toolmaker51

I don't have a viable explanation for short or tang-less Morse tapers

Tell me about it. That's some good work there. I think I might build one of these ejectors. Thanks!
Nov 8, 2022, 12:29 AM
Toolmaker51

Quote:

Originally Posted by Frank S

I can't say that I have had this problem on larger lathes with the #5 taper some of the lathes I've been around with #3&4 had the key slots in the tail stock quill like found on drill presses were not short or tangless taper friendly even had the problem on a drill press once when I used a short taper dead center as a means of centering up on an existing hole to solve this I made a secondary key with a protrusion on 1 side and not as tall as the key so I could insert the one with te4h nub facing the end of the taper then drive the regular key in above it that was the only way possible to remove the dead center as there was no shoulder to bump against.

I'll confess. Those occasions call for positive, sophisticated engineering remedies.
Depending on size, I dropped hard heavy washers, or parted off equivalent into the drift slot. That made up gap from back of taper to working edge of drift, sometimes a rod on back edge to get position. The usual smart tap of lead or brass hammer finished the trick.

I'll never disclose this travesty onto the public, fearing backlash and reprisals for quick and dirty expedients.

O-ooops.
I seen 'em, he headed off that-a-way, over yonder I reckon.