Faboulous binding post

Hi all!
I'm not sure that's the right sub forum for this object :rolleyes:

I'm building some extreme binding post for speaker, usable even as replace for welding machines or Others high current applications.
I used 1" - 25mm brass rod, m10 threaded cap, 10mm hole for a 3\0 avg cable, overrated for an home speaker.

I used my last experience with binding post, then:

- decided to knurl the knob, m10 thread can be hard when cable inserted, now it's nice to use fingers instead of a tool.

-large insert hole, 10mm instead of 6mm, useful with particular high end cables

-teflon thick insulators, on 15mm aluminum frame, maybe the best insulator, with a sturdy frame.

I'm building them as a gift for a friend that is building some very good speakers, I think I will make some couples more for me, I need to rebuild 2 amp frame and question is : why use commercial poor type binding post when I can use some huge custom made one?

I will not tell you that they sound better than other (high priced) binding post, they're just connectors made of good material, contrarily to many magnetic copper and brass found!
It's my taste that a great detail like this can give the right accent

Ps: next thing to do is the body of connector

Saluti
Stefano

Attachment 13423

Excellent knurling work on the 25mm diameter brass rod and very clean threads.

Hi,
Looks good -keep me posted -- norm

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rendoman

Hi all!
I'm not sure that's the right sub forum for this object :rolleyes:

I'm building some extreme binding post for speaker, usable even as replace for welding machines or Others high current applications.
I used 1" - 25mm brass rod, m10 threaded cap, 10mm hole for a 3\0 avg cable, overrated for an home speaker.

I used my last experience with binding post, then:

- decided to knurl the knob, m10 thread can be hard when cable inserted, now it's nice to use fingers instead of a tool.

-large insert hole, 10mm instead of 6mm, useful with particular high end cables

-teflon thick insulators, on 15mm aluminum frame, maybe the best insulator, with a sturdy frame.

I'm building them as a gift for a friend that is building some very good speakers, I think I will make some couples more for me, I need to rebuild 2 amp frame and question is : why use commercial poor type binding post when I can use some huge custom made one?

I will not tell you that they sound better than other (high priced) binding post, they're just connectors made of good material, contrarily to many magnetic copper and brass found!
It's my taste that a great detail like this can give the right accent

Ps: next thing to do is the body of connector

Saluti
Stefano

Attachment 13423

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I wouldn't know of any reason to not use the ones you made. I have made all manner of items like this instead of paying high dollar for something. Looks good!

Hi rendoman-
Those are some good looking parts. Looking forward to the rest.:)

Very nice posts. I'm sure they will work better and last longer than the expensive commercial ones. Good Job!

Nice work. I would suggest 45 degree chamfers at both ends of the knurled knob and at the starting end of the thread. Chamfer at the start of the thread will make entry into the female thread easier and less likely to stick. Chamfers at both ends of the knurled knob will provide a grip that is more comfortable to grasp and not as likely to cut the fingers.

As for the question as to why use cheap commercial posts, commercial posts are electroplated with metals that resist corrosion/oxidation (sometimes with gold). Oxidation and corrosion sometimes occur when dissimilar metals are in contact through electrolysis. These processes can reduce the electrical conductivity of connectors, thus reducing loss of signal(and sound quality in speakers. Whether this loss is significant enough to cause problems is not known to me.

Make 2 triangles 6mm thick and tap them to match Binding post threads machined from the left over brass rod. Locate a piece of 4mm thick nylon sheet or piece of cutting board. NOT one from the kitchen! A 100mm or so long steel bolt threaded flush into the triangle(or creative shape) piece. Heat and melt into the nylon sheet with out coming through. Sink into the nylon enough to keep from twisting. Remove bolt and with a drill bit smaller than the tapped threads drill on through the nylon sheet. Flip nylon plate over and enlarge this smaller hole just enough to run the binding post into the threads. This is now an iso-mount. Solder wire to the back of iso mount or a copper connector to attach wires to circuit board from stereo,amp or welding machine.

Looking good !

Look into ohms law, for keeping power and any heating down due to resistance, I am sure there are a bunch of commercial posts out there, but if doing custom,, add some jazz to it so at an eye glance custom built one or so of a kind is very evident.

Think functional eye candy and you can not go wrong..

Think bling..

I am in no way criticising your work, but for future reference here is how knurls are normally used.

For tightening and unscrewing jobs, such as yours, straight knurls are recommended as they are easier on the fingers and you can obtain a better grip for rotating.

For gripping surfaces on say punches, tommy bars and scribers, then the diamond pattern knurl is used, they give a nice non slip surface to hold onto.

I hope this helps a little

John

Hi all!
Thanks for advice!
I tried chamfering with angled tool, in fact the female threading tool runs better and contact with fingers is better!
I know a man who make artistic gilding for church objects and various simulacra, but I want to avoid unnecessary expenses if possibile. I did same material binding post in my horn speaker setup, maybe 3 years ago, brass polished connectors are like new. I thinked to put some transparent enamel, but I think outside can be polished easily with clothes and normal cleaner, for the inside is really useful a bronze rifle or pistol brush, last time I used 6,5x55 swedish type, it works perfectly

I will buy a couple of new wheels for my knurling tool, I found used at 0 cost, but wheels are not in good condition, I'm surprised how I managed to get a similar result! For the future I will buy a set straight, and a set diamond :)
I never thinked about differences between the two types! thanks!

A couple of picture, I have to polish them with sand paper and cloths, and think a good shape for body connectors

Saluti
Stefano

Attachment 13447 Attachment 13448

Attachment 13449 Attachment 13450

Attachment 13451

Rendoman,

A straight knurl is very easy to make yourself, you only need one wheel and a U channel to fit it in the end of a square bar of a bit of tough steel. I made mine many years ago, and they last a long time as you don't do knurling every day, only every so often.

John

Update
To be honest, one knob has a not perfect thread, maybe because I used only hand. After this I used to put tailstock behind female tool, and it seems that results are better!
I chose 6mm hole for cable, it was not necessary for speakers to use 10mm
Now I have to polish with sand paper and cloth... terrible and long job as usual!

I think I will use delrin instead of teflon, as insulator
One thing is sure, they are heavy!!

Saluti
Stefano

Attachment 13459 Attachment 13460 Attachment 13461

I Changed frame, from rectangular big panel to round essential, 1cm thick solid aluminum.
Insulators are made from delrin bar.
Now the difficult part, polish everything!

The good news is that I found parts for my first forge! and a divider for milling machine!

Attachment 13481 Attachment 13482
Attachment 13483 Attachment 13484
Attachment 13485

Finished!
1,2 kg for a set of speaker, or an amplifier, or an audiophile welder :D
I put a 22lr and a 416 rem ammo for size comparison.
Mission accomplished!

They sound good! the best thing is that they are really practical to use, due to large diameter knob, better than my old connectors mounted on horns, it's easy to tighten with the correct torque by hand

Saluti
Stefano

Attachment 13508 Attachment 13509

Attachment 13507

Hola Randoman, buenos trabajos de torno, y validas todas las sujerencias (Profkanz y Blogwich) por lo menos para mi y aclaro que pocas veces he manejado un torno, el tiempo y la experiencia ajena fueron maestras en mi vida y nunca dejé de lado sugerencias y criticas, adelante y felicitaciones.