Front end alignment tips using minimal tools.

I grew up learning how to do many things without expensive specialized tools. for aligning a front end of the old cars and trucks we worked on all my dad, and I had, were things like a sheet of smooth plywood with grease on it a level a framing square and a folding ruler and a chalk to mark the tires.
You can spend $$$$ for a great front-end machine and I recommend doing just if you specialize in doing a lot of alignments.
But it is not necessary for occasionally checking the alignment, particularly in older vehicles
To explain how simple, it can be done with reasonably accurate results but with some work involved. If you don't have access to any professional alignment equipment You would first make sure the tires are properly inflated and in good condition then lift the front tires off the ground spin the tires and scribe a mark in the center of the tread as the tire rotated then lower the vehicle drive it backwards and forwards holding the steering wheel in the flat driving position measure between the scribed lines from one tire to the other in both the front and back of the tires this will give you the toe in/out measurement. if the vehicle seems to turn to the left or right you need to adjust 1 wheel in and one wheel out until it drives straight then measure the toe in/out again. Take the vehicle for a test drive if it drives like it should you are basically done. if you had replaced things like ball joints control arm bushings, struts or other components which could affect the caster or camber. you have more work to do. with no specialized equipment you will need things like a framing square a level and a little bit of math. some grease to put on the floor to allow the tires to turn with minimal friction and someone to turn the steering wheel. camber is the inclination of the spindle from level caster is the angle of the pivoting axis of the upper and lower ball joints or kingpin on a solid beam front axle or steering knuckle pivot on older ridged 4-wheel drive axles.
After the toe in adjustment has been made drive the vehicle onto a couple of grease spots on the floor. With the wheels straight place the framing square short leg on the floor the long leg against the bulge of the tire measures the distance to the rim from the square at the top and the bottom to determine if the wheel is leaning in or leaning out It should lean in at the top but only slightly generally it will be around .5 to 1.3 degrees consult a service manual for the exact number. With the vehicle sitting still. this will be the camber.
Now hold the level snuggly against the tire touching the front and rear of the sidewall at the zero-bubble mark Have someone turn the wheels to the right and the left note how far the bubble moves in either direction. Except for older vintage vehicles that came new with bias ply tires and no power steering you will want positive caster this means the upper ball joint is slightly behind the lower ball joint, in general 3 to 5 degrees but consult a service manual for the correct number.
Note negative or zero caster results in a vehicle wanting to wander.
2nd note setting up vehicles to racing is a whole nother story. for circle track the numbers from side to side will hardly ever be the same. a lot depends on the size of the track and the steepness of the embankments, but we won't go into that.
Any information given here is for generalities only, and only persons confident in their mechanical abilities should ever attempt to do this at home, your lives are more valuable than the cost of hiring a professional to do the work for you.