Height gauge addition.

This is just a quickie post. This afternoon I needed to measure the height of some holes off a surface plate. The usual measuring jaw/scriber has a flat bottom and is about 6 mm wide. This is fine for measuring flat surfaces but is not suitable for narrow vertical slots or holes.
I decided to stop my work and make a replacement measuring probe which I am sure will pay me many times over in time saved down the road.

My scrap box offered up a piece of 4140 which was hiding the piece that I needed, a broken 3 mm carbide drill bit completed the BOM.

Attachment 26195 Attachment 26196 Click on thumbnails for full size images.
On the left are the materials and on the right we see the piece hiding in the block (never throw out even the most useless looking scrap).

Attachment 26197 Attachment 26198
Here is the result of half an hour's marking and milling compared with the original scriber.

I wanted to position the bottom of the probe/stylus (I don't know what else to call it) such that it was the same distance down from the top reference surface as the original so that I could rely on the stock measuring scale. The original was 30 mm from the top surface to the underside of the scriber. To ensure this I initially drilled the hole centre, for the carbide drill bit, at 28.75 mm (30.25 - 1.5 = 28.75 mm. 1.5 is the stylus radius) down from the top surface. 30.25 mm instead of the final 30 mm to allow for any inaccuracy in positioning the hole. Then with the stylus pressed home I clamped the whole thing into the height gauge and used it to measure the height of a 10 mm gauge block. The vernier showed it to be 10.24 mm. I then milled another 0.24 mm off the top surface and retested. It was spot on as far as the vernier resolution could measure.

Attachment 26203
Ready to go.

Attachment 26199 Attachment 26200
Showing a typical application which the stock measuring jaw/scriber has trouble with. The new stylus has some material underneath it which prevents the stylus reading down to zero, the minimum is 3.5 mm but that is unlikely to be a problem for its intended and expected use.

Attachment 26201 Attachment 26202
Final touch. I used double sided sticky tape to fix a plastic box to the height gauge base to store the part not in use. A minor thing to do but of great importance to avoid losing a vital piece.

A simple device, which I now wish that I had made decades ago. It wouldn't surprise me if similar probes are available commercially and/or home built by others, but I have not looked. I needed it there and then and making it was quicker than searching the net, ordering one and waiting for delivery.

In a spare moment on the net I searched for "height gauge accessories" and much to my surprise I found nothing like the piece in the above post. However, I did find this cone based hole centre finder.

Attachment 26216 click thumbnail for full size image.

It looks like it could be useful but it relies on the hole entrance being in good condition, which is not always the case. I think that I'll make one anyway but I'll use a shallower angle on the point.

Another accessory that I found was for using a height gauge as a depth gauge. I'll definitely make one of these. I have been doing some reverse engineering lately and that will come in very handy.

Attachment 26217

A solid cone isn't bad as a center finder, but they don't have much 'feel' to ascertain contact with 100% of a hole in both axes. Mitutoyo's [and likely copies] is a pivoting flat arrow on a back plate, and scriber sized arm for height gauge. A fine lever-arm marks the arrow center, indicating a central location to corresponding line on back plate. Best feature is that precise vertical center isn't crucial, but works best on un-chamfered bores.
It's not a scriber, only used to interpret relative position from a reference you establish. Simple as scribing line known height above surface plate, and positioning arrow at the line. A drill bushing atop a 1-2-3 block works for higher precision, from easily calculated center.

It was designed and patented by a resident of Long Beach, Ca.
https://www.google.com/search?q=mitu...aDn7A-z8lZuqM:

I can see where that little creature would come in handy

Doug

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Thanks tonyfoale! We've added your Height Gauge Modification to our Measuring and Marking category,
as well as to your builder page: tonyfoale's Homemade Tools. Your receipt:

<div id="blocks"> <div class="block b1 pngfix"> <div class="bimg"> <div> <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/homemade-height-gauge-modification"> <img src="/uploads/218665/homemade-height-gauge-modification.jpeg"/> </a> </div> </div> <div class="head pngfix"></div> <div class="left pngfix"></div> <div class="right pngfix"></div> <div class="blockover b1 pngfix"> <div class="title"> <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/homemade-height-gauge-modification">Height Gauge Modification</a> <span> by <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/builder/tonyfoale">tonyfoale</a></span> </div> <div class="tags">tags: <a href='http://www.homemadetools.net/tag/modification'>modification</a>, <a href='http://www.homemadetools.net/tag/height-gauge'>height gauge</a> </div> </div> </div> </div>
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Quote:

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Originally Posted by tonyfoale

Another accessory that I found was for using a height gauge as a depth gauge. I'll definitely make one of these. I have been doing some reverse engineering lately and that will come in very handy.

Attachment 26217

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I made a similar device, but instead of the clamping screw on a straight rod I used a threaded rod with a lock nut. This makes for an easy way to get a precise reference position. It has proved to be invaluable over the past few days for the reverse engineering that I have been doing. Motorcycle crank and gear cases with a view to making modified version out of solid 6061.

Attachment 26265 Attachment 26266 Click thumbnails for full size images.
Originals.

Attachment 26263 Attachment 26264
New ones.

Tony
I know this thread is about measuring but the new engine casing project you posted looks really interesting. Have you increased engine performance over the years to a point the originals are over stressed or maybe stiffer/slimmer ones with your own crank for higher RPM. I hope we get to see the finished ones.
Regards
Alan

Quote:

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Originally Posted by olderdan

Tony
I know this thread is about measuring but the new engine casing project you posted looks really interesting. Have you increased engine performance over the years to a point the originals are over stressed or maybe stiffer/slimmer ones with your own crank for higher RPM. I hope we get to see the finished ones.

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Alan,

There are several reasons for the new cases but the principal one is to be able to accommodate a larger bore. There is a limit to the bore size in the crankcase mouth before running into the stud holes. 78 mm is about the maximum without making the cast iron liner too thin as well. With the new cases I'll be able to go to 92 mm at a push. The new cases will also be a bit heavier to increase rigidity. Stiffness is all important in the bottom end and I'll also be using a short stroke one piece crankshaft in place of the stock built up shaft.
With the new cases and crankshaft I should have a bullet proof bottom end which will support whatever power I get from the top end.

I'll take some pix of the current progress and post some here in the next day or two.
An interesting aspect is how I plan to ensure alignment of the bearing bores in the two halves. Both halves have to be bored separately for several reasons. if I get a moment i'll write that up or maybe make a video.

I'm somewhat floored by urge to make a billet crankcase; but motivations are perfectly logical. I imagine it'll be undertaken via CNC? Billet cases have perfection written all over them, right down to modifying drainage tracts, fixturing pads, ultra clean fillet & radii, ad infinitum. Fixture pads would aid line boring process with permanent datum. Not to mention increased strength from cast 356 to rolled 6061. If you've ever worked 7075 though, it may prove even more superior, and the finish is spectacular!

TM51.
The machining will be a mixture of manual and CNC. Most but not all roughing will be done manually. Finishing of the sections where the G-code can be written manually and those sections which lend themselves to using some G-code generation software that I have written will be done with CNC, the rest manually. I have no intention of spending the time to make CAD drawings in order to do 3D profiling of the undulating surfaces. Those sections will be redesigned to have fewer flat levels. The critical bearing bores will be made with a nice Narex boring head which I picked up a couple of years back.

Alan
here are a few pix. of progress to date as per your request. The original case halves weigh 4.1 and 4.2 kg. One of the new ones still weighs 8.5 kg and the other 10.5 kg so I still have a lot of swarf to make. I spent all morning machining and was most disappointed to have only removed another 1.2 kg.

Attachment 26286 Attachment 26287 Click to see full size images
RHS cases from inside and outside. This is the most complex half case.

Attachment 26288 Attachment 26289
RHS with stock cover dowelled and bolted in place.

Attachment 26290
Inside of LHS case. Simpler than the RHS.

Thanks for the pics Tony, this a fascinating project and I will be following everything you find the time to post.
Regards
Alan

i started this topic with just a single modification to a measuring device, namely a vernier height gauge to help with reverse engineering a set of motorcycle crankcases. I had to make or modify a number of other tools as well. Here are some of them. Cheap calipers came in for some surgery to adapt them to specific tasks.

Attachment 26362 Attachment 26363 Click thumbnails for full size images

This my version of commercially available depth gauge addition. I used a 4 mm threaded rod with a lock nut above the holding beam which is threaded. At the bottom I fixed a carbide "probe". Firstly I set the vernier to a convenient nearest 10 mm setting and then I adjust the probe and lock it to a reference which may be zero at the base surface or it could be a reference surface on the part to be measured.

Attachment 26364 Attachment 26365

A while back a local Lidl store had brake disc calipers on offer. Due to its long jaws it has been very useful for various purposes. here you can see how I added to its utility by adding clamps to hold some threaded rod. This allows me to get very quick thickness measurements in awkward places. I could get the same results in most, but not all, areas by using the depth gauge modification above from both sides, but using the caliper is much faster. the RH pic. shows how it is used.

Attachment 26366

Here are some modified calipers. On the left I have cut off the OD measuring jaws, which allows it to fit some bores to measure grooves or spacing directly. The second one has been shortened to allow it to fit into smaller spaces, the usual depth gauge rod has been cut off also. A small bolt has been added at the end to act as a stop. The stub of the cutoff depth rod will bear against the bolt so the plastic case is protected.
The other two have just had the jaws modified to allow them to be used where there would otherwise be some interference.

All of the modifications here have been done to satisfy a practical requirement, none have been done on a basis of "it might be useful one rainy day".

I still like the height gauge and brake caliper hacks best. I shudder thinking about hacking on any of my calipers. Since they're all [save one 6''] verniers from 4'' to 48'', they feel safe!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Toolmaker51

I still like the height gauge and brake caliper hacks best. I shudder thinking about hacking on of my calipers. Since they're all [save one 6''] verniers from 4'' to 48'', they feel safe!

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The height gauge hacks would be nicer on a digital height gauge with its ability for zeroing at the touch of a button. I might have a word with Santa to see if he can bring me a dual beam digital instrument for Xmas.
It is only cheap calipers that I modify. i have some nice Mitutoyo (so is the height gauge) vernier and digital calipers which are safe from hacking.

This is where cheap tools can come in to their own, lots of ideas you have given us for those awkward measuring jobs.
Thanks
Alan

Quote:

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Originally Posted by tonyfoale

Attachment 26366

Here are some modified calipers. On the left I have cut off the OD measuring jaws, which allows it to fit some bores to measure grooves or spacing directly. The second one has been shortened to allow it to fit into smaller spaces, the usual depth gauge rod has been cut off also. A small bolt has been added at the end to act as a stop. The stub of the cutoff depth rod will bear against the bolt so the plastic case is protected.
The other two have just had the jaws modified to allow them to be used where there would otherwise be some interference.

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I like all your caliper mods. The shortened calipers are very handy for slipping into a pocket when off to do some shopping; especially since metric and inferial are just a button touch away. HF used to sell 3" cheapies. I have a pair and they are my shopping calipers as well as being very useful for in situ measurements when the mill spindle is down close to the workpiece.

Another handy caliper modification is to center drill two spots, one on each jaw, separated by a convenient distance, e.g. 0.2". Now, to set your dividers to a desired radius, stick the points into the spots and open the calipers until they read the radius minus the separation distance.

Also, novices should be aware that calipers are a good substitute for fine tweezers when needing to remove one of those annoying steel splinters from a finger.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mklotz

Another handy caliper modification is to center drill two spots, one on each jaw, separated by a convenient distance, e.g. 0.2". Now, to set your dividers to a desired radius, stick the points into the spots and open the calipers until they read the radius minus the separation distance.

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Marv, that is a useful tip.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mklotz

Also, novices should be aware that calipers are a good substitute for fine tweezers when needing to remove one of those annoying steel splinters from a finger.

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Another great idea, I have been getting too many aluminium splinters lately which I have been removing with tweezers from a Swiss Army knife but some are very hard to get a hold on. I'll try the caliper method on the next one.
There will be those who suggest wearing gloves but I hate working like that and it can be dangerous also.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mklotz

Another handy caliper modification is to center drill two spots, one on each jaw, separated by a convenient distance, e.g. 0.2". Now, to set your dividers to a desired radius, stick the points into the spots and open the calipers until they read the radius minus the separation distance.

Also, novices should be aware that calipers are a good substitute for fine tweezers when needing to remove one of those annoying steel splinters from a finger.

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Back in the dim and distant past.......Divider/ compass marks were a common feature on decent vernier calipers. I've only seen them on verniers with an adjustable [calibration] plate. Very small, to accurately position sharp points, and encircled by a little ring so the mark was easily seen. Neat feature being read direct; on back side, one on body other on slide. I haven't used them in awhile for scribing diameters, just equally interspersed lines of holes. It would have been convenient whether a little 2" divider or a long trammel compared to picking up marks on a scale.

And tweezers. I'll probably stick a copy of this elsewhere too. Buy a good set of tweezers; pointed, is a little better than flat bladed manicure style. They'll probably be Swiss or Pakistan made, stainless and look forged not stamped sheet metal.
Hone sides of pointed variety by drawing [not pushing] over successively finer abrasives. Hold them closed lightly to not deflect jaws open, that's important. Then pointed or flat, hone inside to get jaws truly parallel. Fine wet-or-dry silicone paper works well. This puts very fine engagement on jaws and edges, no splinters will escape grasp. Honing the edges 'sharpens' them, so when needed, embedded splinters can be exposed nipping out a little skin. Works every time.

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Thanks tonyfoale! We've added your Depth Gauge Modification to our Height and Depth Gauges category,
as well as to your builder page: tonyfoale's Homemade Tools. Your receipt:

<div id="blocks"> <div class="block b1 pngfix"> <div class="bimg"> <div> <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/homemade-depth-gauge-modification"> <img src="/uploads/218803/homemade-depth-gauge-modification.jpeg"/> </a> </div> </div> <div class="head pngfix"></div> <div class="left pngfix"></div> <div class="right pngfix"></div> <div class="blockover b1 pngfix"> <div class="title"> <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/homemade-depth-gauge-modification">Depth Gauge Modification</a> <span> by <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/builder/tonyfoale">tonyfoale</a></span> </div> <div class="tags">tags: <a href='http://www.homemadetools.net/tag/depth-gauge'>depth gauge</a> </div> </div> </div> </div>
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Thanks tonyfoale! We've added your Thickness Gauge to our Measuring and Marking category,
as well as to your builder page: tonyfoale's Homemade Tools. Your receipt:

<div id="blocks"> <div class="block b1 pngfix"> <div class="bimg"> <div> <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/homemade-thickness-gauge-10"> <img src="/uploads/218808/homemade-thickness-gauge-10.jpeg"/> </a> </div> </div> <div class="head pngfix"></div> <div class="left pngfix"></div> <div class="right pngfix"></div> <div class="blockover b1 pngfix"> <div class="title"> <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/homemade-thickness-gauge-10">Thickness Gauge</a> <span> by <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/builder/tonyfoale">tonyfoale</a></span> </div> <div class="tags">tags: <a href='http://www.homemadetools.net/tag/thickness-gauge'>thickness gauge</a> </div> </div> </div> </div>
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Thanks tonyfoale! We've added your Caliper Modifications to our Measuring and Marking category,
as well as to your builder page: tonyfoale's Homemade Tools. Your receipt:

<div id="blocks"> <div class="block b1 pngfix"> <div class="bimg"> <div> <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/homemade-caliper-modifications"> <img src="/uploads/218813/homemade-caliper-modifications.jpeg"/> </a> </div> </div> <div class="head pngfix"></div> <div class="left pngfix"></div> <div class="right pngfix"></div> <div class="blockover b1 pngfix"> <div class="title"> <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/homemade-caliper-modifications">Caliper Modifications</a> <span> by <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/builder/tonyfoale">tonyfoale</a></span> </div> <div class="tags">tags: <a href='http://www.homemadetools.net/tag/caliper'>caliper</a>, <a href='http://www.homemadetools.net/tag/modification'>modification</a> </div> </div> </div> </div>
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My suggestion of using calipers for splinter extraction was meant for instances when tweezers aren't immediately to hand. You should have proper tweezers as well. Yes, surprisingly, many of the better are made in Pakistan. Amazon has a good selection.

A handy form, if you can find some, has tips shaped like the jaws of flush-cutting pliers. These push the skin down, exposing the tip of the splinter, which can be grasped with greater pressure because of the line contact of the tips. The tips of the caliper jaws mimic this form and that's what makes them an effective tool for the job.

Splinter removal tips are legion. One of my favorites is a technique for wooden splinters. Apply some wood glue to the affected area and let it dry. After it's dry pick it off the skin. If all goes well, the splinter will be glued to the blob of glue you removed.

I have made a bit more progress. From starting with 50 kg I am now down to 17 kg but the target is around 9 kg so lots more swarf to make.

Attachment 26423 Attachment 26424 Click images for full size versions.

Continuing on this theme of reverse engineering I have made another post about measuring the various radii on the crankcases. You can find that here Radius-gauge

I cut up a set of Harbor Freight $10.00 (with coupon :) ) 6" calipers to convert to DRO on tailstock of 7x10 mini lathe. Also soldered wires to use a AA battery plus a switch as the real cheap pnes never turn completely off (on/off switch only turns off display) Always wondered why battery life was so short

Thanks Tony these are real cool tools ! ….the one ont the left (with the OD measuring jaws cut off) I could use these often. I wouldn't do this to my high end vernier calipers but I will buy a 6" HF model and make it pocket size… great job tony

Quote:

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Originally Posted by crazypj

I cut up a set of Harbor Freight $10.00 (with coupon :) ) 6" calipers to convert to DRO on tailstock of 7x10 mini lathe. Also soldered wires to use a AA battery plus a switch as the real cheap pnes never turn completely off (on/off switch only turns off display) Always wondered why battery life was so short

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I think that it was Marv who pointed out that you can get Li-ion for the calipers which last much longer. It is not only cheap calipers which don't switch off.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mr.Pete

Thanks Tony these are real cool tools ! ….the one ont the left (with the OD measuring jaws cut off) I could use these often. I wouldn't do this to my high end vernier calipers but I will buy a 6" HF model and make it pocket size… great job tony

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Don't make the same mistake that I did. When you close up a normal caliper, that is the reference to set zero. I cut all that off, and lost that zero, it is enough to just leave a small bit for zero contact. Easy when you are forewarned which I wasn't. All is not lost though, I can use the depth measuring stick to set zero, just not so convenient.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by tonyfoale

I have made a bit more progress. From starting with 50 kg I am now down to 17 kg but the target is around 9 kg so lots more swarf to make.

Attachment 26423 Attachment 26424 Click images for full size versions.

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Is this going to be the most expensive Aermacchi ever built? ;) (I'm guessing thats what your making) Really nice workJust the raw material must have been pretty expensive. (I had a friend who paid around $4,000 for two blocks to make a Harley 'double twin' V-4 )

Quote:

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Originally Posted by crazypj

Is this going to be the most expensive Aermacchi ever built? ;) (I'm guessing thats what your making) Really nice workJust the raw material must have been pretty expensive. (I had a friend who paid around $4,000 for two blocks to make a Harley 'double twin' V-4 )

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I don't recall the cost of the blocks but it was a few hundred USD.

Let's see; most expensive Aermacchi engine ever + incredibly well engineered chassis x obviously uber talented designer x rider = few want to race him?

tonyfoale, do any factory teams race same class you compete in? They might have backing, yet not been R&D'ing life long.
Even as a spectator, racing talent [and dedication] exhibited by garage teams make corporate efforts pale indeed.

(edit) Had to play with my metric convertor. 50kg solids were ~110 lb. Last report pared that to 17kg ~39lbs. His target is 9kg 19.8lbs. Increased bore [stroke unknown, but billet likely stroked as well] might put displacement 500cc or better.
What's going to keep it on the track?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Toolmaker51

tonyfoale, do any factory teams race same class you compete in? They might have backing, yet not been R&D'ing life long.
Even as a spectator, racing talent [and dedication] exhibited by garage teams make corporate efforts pale indeed.

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In the 60s and 70s I raced in some professional classes although I was an amateur in the sense that I always had a real job. Well that was until 1973 when I started a business making cast wheels. At that time it was mainly factory and some well funded teams that used cast wheels, I was the first in the UK to make them available to the average racer. Out of the blue I was asked by a previous Australian champion, then racing in the world championships, to make him a couple of chassis. He knew that I made chassis for my own use. To cut a long story short, he did very well from the start on my chassis and orders started to come, although I had regarded those as a one off job. I was in the wheel business but that soon changed to being in the specialist frame business. There were other chassis makers at that time, most in the UK, but basically the people involved were generally skilled artisans. As an engineer I had a far greater knowledge of structures and other theoretical aspects and the chassis that I designed had a high success ratio straight out of the workshop.

In 1987 I had had enough and closed the business and moved to Spain. Since then I earnt a living consulting on chassis design and handling for several motorcycle manufacturers and race teams. I have also given seminars on the same subject, both public and closed corporate (mostly in the US), as well as writing and selling software for suspension design and setup. I was 75 a few days back and now I only accept consulting jobs which are unusual and interesting. I just try to spend my time working on my own stuff. I always feel anxious when I am not in my workshop.

To return to your question (I seem to have wandered off that). I now race in classic races (called Vintage in the US) and although there are some very well funded teams there is no factory team participation. Like building chassis I got back into racing almost by accident. I had long been retired from racing, bringing up a family etc., but in 2005 I was contacted by a bloke from Sacramento who had bought a chassis for a race Aermacchi that was loosely patterned after my early 1970s bike. He suggested that I come over to race it at Daytona in 2006. It was such a crazy idea that I spent a whole millisecond thinking about it. That sucked me in and I came over twice more that year to race at Mid Ohio and Barber. In 2007 I raced here in Spain on modern bikes in endurance races with my son as the other rider.
Then in 2008 I moved to the US for 3 years. I had given a seminar to engineers at Segway and that led to a job offer as director of advanced product development, so my wife and I came to experience the American Dream armed with a 3 year visa. I had many friends there and the day after we arrived I was racing at Loudon on borrowed bikes. That continued until i got a workshop together there and built my own bike. After three years I returned to Spain with bike and much workshop equipment (more available and cheaper in the US). I never expected to race in the US again but i kept getting work offers there and so I timed my work availability to coincide with the race calender. However, each year it got harder to buy accident insurance and in 2017 I could only get insurance with barely enough coverage to cover the ambulance ride should i need it. I reluctantly decided that I could not continue to race in the US. I loved the atmosphere at the US classic events. Last year i had a rest from it but I intend to get stuck in again this year here in Spain and other European events.

Attachment 28747 Daytona 2006

Attachment 28748 Loudon 2008, the day after arriving in US.

We should all cultivate and display that talent for clear historical descriptions. Of the cast wheel segment, that in any way connected to Lester pattern wheels? Always thought it odd, standard on that era Triumph and Yamaha alike.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Toolmaker51

We should all cultivate and display that talent for clear historical descriptions. Of the cast wheel segment, that in any way connected to Lester pattern wheels? Always thought it odd, standard on that era Triumph and Yamaha alike.

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No connection with the Lester wheels. I did two styles;

Attachment 28749 First style.

Attachment 28750 Later style.

I had magnesium castings for racing and aluminium for road use of the first style. Only magnesium for the later type.

Pondering Lesters', stumbled across a neat discussion of moto-wheels https://thunderpress.net/editorial/c...2016/08/20.htm a lot of misunderstood physics connected to wire spokes, cast and ugly Honda composite efforts. But they introduced tubeless tires on motorcycles!
A whole afternoon worth in other articles too. [ie] Jerry Branch hint hint.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Toolmaker51

A whole afternoon worth in other articles too. [ie] Jerry Branch hint hint.

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Jerry was a smart cookie. i'll have a look at your link.