Attachment 19091
So far I have 10 fingers left. Just lucky I guess.
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Attachment 19091
So far I have 10 fingers left. Just lucky I guess.
Lucky but also very careful.
10-fingers-no-spares-in-stock-safety-sign
loud I bet
Free hand sawing on a table saw is just asking to loose fingers/hands no matter the material. You just got lucky and I do not recommend repeating the stunt.
I think a guard and miter square would be helpful here. But I still wouldn't use my table saw on metal that thick.
With the correct blade it would be just fine. However the disregard for safety is way beyond the pale.
I've cut a lot of aluminum with a table and a compound miter saw. Each time I've also set up a poly sprayer to spray water on the cut to keep from being burnt from the chips.
need a guard.water
Hi All
Cutting aluminium on a table saw is no more difficult than cutting really HARD wood. Of course all due care and safety much be in place. Yes a mitre guide etc. and safety glasses as a minimum. It looks to me that the photo is showing a negative rake blade is being used for cutting aluminium. This type of blade is used in SCMS/mitre/chop saws when cutting aluminium extrusions. While I appreciate the safety aspect, I don't think it is an absolute necessity to use this style of blade (negative rake) in a (properly set up and properly used) table saw.
I have done this on .5" (12mm) aluminium plate, using a normal (crosscut) wood blade. Treat the aluminium as hardwood and proceed slowly. Be aware that the aluminium tends to stick to the teeth of the blade. If you need to make numerous cuts, check the teeth before making each cut. The blade will still cut with gummed up teeth but the finish tends to be poor.
Cutting aluminium freehand, without any form of guide is not wise, but cutting aluminium on a table saw can be quite safe.
Hard wax, (candle) or better still, beeswax will considerably help in preventing the blade from gumming up with ally chips
If one is going to dedicate a table saw to cut metal it would be advisable to add some blade speed reduction. I have an old table saw that I have been considering turning into a metal cutting cold saw since it is belt driven I can add an arbor and pulleys to reduce the speed. my saw takes a 12" blade so the optimal speed would be somewhere around 146 RPM given that my old 20" schotchman turned 88 RPM that meant it had 460 ft per min radial tooth contact speed. A 12 " blade @146 RPM would be roughly the same tooth contact speed with proper coolant flooding I should be able to expect burr free machine smooth cuts.
Wood cutting saws turn way too fast and create far too much heat and without a high rate of coolant flow possibly even air assisted spray cooling the chances of galling the cuts or throwing teeth increases exponentially with each successive cut. Beeswax helps but must be applied continuously to both sides of the blade during the cutting process.
Is this to say that I've never cut steel or aluminum with a circular saw, radial arm or table saw NO! I've done it I once cut an entire building down with a worm drive circular saw the saw could be heard for nearly a mile
Note: moved 5 meta-discussion posts out of this thread and into the Site Suggestions and Help subforum.