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How the last guy tightened it.
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Previously:
https://www.homemadetools.net/forum/...016#post129790
https://www.homemadetools.net/forum/...044#post115318
Never met the person, but have done some rework of his jobs.
Yep, that sucker ain't comin' off anytime soon!
They cut the video off before he was finished.
Next he hopped of the lift and yelled, "quick hand me the stick welder and a whole box of rods!"
no bloody wonder the handle on the wrench is bent
You have to wonder how the guys at the Jiffy-Lube get that front-end loader down in the pit under the cars?
LOL! That would be something to see.Quote:
Originally Posted by Elizabeth Greene
This reminds of a time we needed to get the nozzle off an injection molding machine. We put the biggest pipe wrench we could find on it, and hooked to the overhead hoist. Tuned the heat on for a while on the barrel , then started lifting with the hoist. When the whole machine started to get light on the back side, I smacked the end of the nozzle with a sledge and you'd have thought a cannon went off.
The operator had been using a brass rod to break up a bridge in the hopper and got a piece broken off by the screw, plugging the nozzle.
Pity the poor dumb bastard that has to get that off again.
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I can't be the only one that wants to know where I can get that breaker bar. That's stout!
have they never heard of a torque multiplier?
I had a Proto breaker bar that was probably that strong. before I got my 1" torque multiplier there were numerous times when I had used a 6 ft pipe as a cheater although mine happened not to be a bent up piece of scrap pipe.
But if you notice on the ground there appears to be at least one breaker bar that had failed to live up to the abuse
I have bent pipe wrenches that way.
I have an old Mustang Skid Steer. The motor drive sprockets torque to 800-850 ft lbs. The service manual has a table that references Body weight and cheater bar length to achieve that torque.
It sounds laughable but I bought it cheap because it wouldn't pull on one side. That nut on the drive motor backed off and sheared the key in the sprocket. After I made a new tapered center to weld into the sprocket, I made damn sure I got it to the specified torque.
I built a drawworks for an oil drilling rig that had 54" diameter disk brakes the hydraulic calipers had 5 2' bolts to hold them together the instruction sheet said heat the 20" long bolts to 400°f then use a 10 foot long pipe with 2 men bouncing their weight on it We had an 1 1/2" drive hydraulic impact to pre tighten themQuote:
Originally Posted by Unkle Fuzzy
Impact wrenches and torque multipliers are good things.