OT: -Haven't gotten around to that just yet, as I've been busy prepping for yet another year at my Uni,
but also lacking the head of yours, I got myself a Casio FX-991EX "prosthetic math brain" for under 30 bucks.
Has taken me quite some time to learn/ use all of it's bells and whistles.
Please don't have any great expectations on the levels of logic regarding the units among the Meccanoists though,
remember their Kingdom isn't United any more, due to the Brexit thing, their Parliament effectively shortcircuited.
"Fake news" isn't something new over there - the tabloids have been driving opinion for decades...
In wanting less Brussels/ EU government - they might get "self-sufficiency á la Pyongyang Light".
Some who voted for "less immigrants" are actually amazed that in two months, they have to apply and pay for visas going abroad.
2 cents rant - pardon me.
The hand crank is still useful for toolpost grinding or milling threads with the TPMDGM:
DIYSwede's TPMDGM: A Flip-Flop ToolPostMiniDriil/Mill/Grinder for a 7x14" lathe
If your lathe uses screw-on chucks and you don't lubricate the threads before each mounting, it may be difficult to unthread later. (This is especially true if you don't change chucks frequently.) The temptation is to engage the back gears without removing the coupling pin, thus locking the rotation of the spindle. Then, when torque is applied to the chuck, often with a wrench, the back gears take all the force and you risk breaking a tooth or two.
A better procedure is to block the rotation of the chuck with a wooden block and use the crank to unscrew the spindle from the now fixed chuck.
There are numerous ways to build a crank; here's how I built mine...
Lathe hand crank
Home Shop Freeware
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