Lathe Carriage Stop Revisited

[jjr2001]

The link below is the original design that has been in use for quite some time. I have also made a 3rd type
shown in the second link below. It can have as many stops as you want to make up.

http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/m...0792#post73139
http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/l...465#post107507
I really like the one with the interchangeable stop rods. However it is not always on the lathe.

My original two shown in the first link are ok but I wanted them to work a bit faster than the bicycle clamp.
These are both configurable for a right side or left side carriage stop.

I removed the bicycle clamp, threaded the body 1/4-20 and made a knurled knob. The knob is good and fast but not quite tight enough
so I added 4 holes in each knob for a 1/4" tommy bar. The two allen cap screws that can be seen from the top side are only used for guide pins.They are not tight but quite loose. They do not need any adjustment when installing or removing the stop. I like the update since it is faster to set up than the bicycle clamp and the bike clamp could be a bit cumbersome to set up. The tommy bar has some surgical tubing on the end for a soft handle.

Cheers, JR

[Toolmaker51]

The link below is the original design that has been in use for quite some time. I have also made a 3rd type
shown in the second link below. It can have as many stops as you want to make up.

My original two shown in the first link are ok but I wanted them to work a bit faster than the bicycle clamp.
These are both configurable for a right side or left side carriage stop.

I removed the bicycle clamp, threaded the body 1/4-20 and made a knurled knob. The knob is good and fast but not quite tight enough
so I added 4 holes in each knob for a 1/4" tommy bar. The two allen cap screws that can be seen from the top side are only used for guide pins.They are not tight but quite loose. They do not need any adjustment when installing or removing the stop. I like the update since it is faster to set up than the bicycle clamp and the bike clamp could be a bit cumbersome to set up. The tommy bar has some surgical tubing on the end for a soft handle.

Cheers, JR

You can remedy single point clamping with a fulcrum. Drill and tap body or clamp plate for a small set screw, allowed to poke out. An alternate mills a bit heavier plate for a 'toe' at outboard end and clamp, and with surfaces parallel.
Quite sure tommy bar will get lonely as a hermit.

[Suttmike1]

I need plans for carriage stops. Mine need to be larger than for a mini lathe. I need to build a pair for a 15” x 60” Southbend Lathe. Any suggestions. Can you email plans for yours? I can try to upsize them.

Thanks,
Michael Sutton
Midan Gunsmithing
suttonmike72@yahoo.com

[jjr2001]

Ahhhhh thanks TM. That is what I missed when I changed the clamp. I do not have the clamp pad parallel to the body so the clamp is just hitting on the edge of the lathe bed. Thanks for the tip. I will modify them.

Cheers, JR

[jjr2001]

I need plans for carriage stops. Mine need to be larger than for a mini lathe. I need to build a pair for a 15” x 60” Southbend Lathe. Any suggestions. Can you email plans for yours? I can try to upsize them.

Thanks,
Michael Sutton
Midan Gunsmithing
suttonmike72@yahoo.com

Here are a bunch of them, may have plans or build pictures:
Homemade Tools Search: carriage stop - HomemadeTools.net


Nice one by Rossbotics:
http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/l...age-stop-69874

Another:
http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/n...the-stop-66194

One more:
Tom's Techniques – Micrometer Carriage Stop

Cheers, JR
Cheers, JR

[DIYer]

Thanks jjr2001! We've added your Lathe Carriage Stop to our Lathe Accessories category,
as well as to your builder page: jjr2001's Homemade Tools. Your receipt:

Lathe Carriage Stop by jjr2001

tags: carriage stop

[JBMauser]

I want to know if you have a hard stop attached to the way, does the carriage pop the split nut open and disengage from the lead screw? I have an old SB 9C and I am not about to try and crash it into a hard stop to find out....

[jjr2001]

I want to know if you have a hard stop attached to the way, does the carriage pop the split nut open and disengage from the lead screw? I have an old SB 9C and I am not about to try and crash it into a hard stop to find out....

Of course I have a hard stop attached to the lathe ways. That is exactly what the picture shows.
I only use it during manual feed and my nuts are still intact.
The best way to screw up your lathe would be to use power feed into a hard stop!

Cheers, JR

[Toolmaker51]

I want to know if you have a hard stop attached to the way, does the carriage pop the split nut open and disengage from the lead screw? I have an old SB 9C and I am not about to try and crash it into a hard stop to find out....

Oh yeah, the carriage will split the half nut open all right...once!

Hard stop = manual use only.
No bedway clamps have the means of disengaging feed rod or lead screw, normally. There are a few, MoriSeiki, Okuma and others, typically larger lathes with movable cams that trip a detent extending from bottom of carriage. Some locate on rigid cast drip pans, others use a manually indexed rod below whatever feed, lead, and clutch shaft. Those only function to halt the feed of carriage along ways.

Here on HMT.net, a very creative member 'gatz' posted his ultra positive threading kickout, pneumatic no less, astounded all of us. Perfect threading right up to a shoulder, at real RPM's. It would easily function feed-wise if reoriented to trip feed lever.
http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/l...t-set-up-68878

[jjr2001]

Thanks TM51, great explanation and I agree 110%. I liken it to driving your car into a wall at 60 mph, not much left.
Gatz made a very nice setup for his Jet lathe. Blood pressure starts to rise as the arm gets close to the stop and then Click,
blood pressure back down!

Cheers, JR