A lot of machines are re-branded for importers and companies to sell, but built from a common collection of castings. If shifters and levers are arranged in the same locations, and they are independent feed and threading shafts, it's a real lathe and chances are the same machine. That makes finding manuals easier. [*]You'll do best by recording in text and jpegs details about clearances; end play, backlash, runout, fastener torque and location, locking tabs etc.[*] Plastic bags and coffee cans; drink lots of coffee, the cans are very handy.[*]A lot of the drive shafts are pinned offset from the measured centerline.[*]Because of all the castings and blind holes, screw length is particular. [*]Look for areas that chafe wire insulation. [*]Identify wire with commercial markers or narrow athletic tape and Rapidograph style pen. [*]Figure on testing the variety of electrical components fuses, relays, heaters. [*]Save carriage wipers what ever condition they are in to produce new ones. [*]There could be cotton wick and/ or 'pipe cleaners' that carry oil from reservoirs to lube points, headstock especially. [*]Start looking for supplies; small copper, brass or steel capillary tube for oiling, should be soft enough to form by hand. [*]Investigate how to make leather seals for shafts.[*]Reseal all the unexposed areas with GE Glyptol or enamel paint, usually red lead or light colored to see metal shavings later. It also traps whatever sand remains from the original castings.[*]There are all kinds of drip lube canisters that will improve the maintenance routine. Here a brand is 'Gits' Lubrication | GITS Manufacturing is one, but many more exist. [*]Painting outside surfaces is best with oil-based enamel over glazing putty, like automotive repair paste but that doesn't stick to cast iron well.[*] And replace the worn silk screened charts and labels with acid photo-engraved panels.

I'm sure plenty more responses will occur, it strikes me that 'our' projects have worldwide exposure.