Lathe threading disengagement set-up

<!-- BEGIN /var/www/html/homemadetools/protected/modules/zeus/views/tool/postUpdate.php -->
Thanks gatz! We've added your Lathe Threading Disengagement Setup to our Lathe Accessories category,
as well as to your builder page: gatz's Homemade Tools. Your receipt:

<div id="blocks"> <div class="block b1 pngfix"> <div class="bimg"> <div> <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/homemade-lathe-threading-disengagement-setup"> <img src="/uploads/216378/homemade-lathe-threading-disengagement-setup.jpeg"/> </a> </div> </div> <div class="head pngfix"></div> <div class="left pngfix"></div> <div class="right pngfix"></div> <div class="blockover b1 pngfix"> <div class="title"> <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/homemade-lathe-threading-disengagement-setup">Lathe Threading Disengagement Setup</a> <span> by <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/builder/gatz">gatz</a></span> </div> <div class="tags">tags: <a href='http://www.homemadetools.net/tag/pneumatic'>pneumatic</a>, <a href='http://www.homemadetools.net/tag/threading'>threading</a> </div> </div> </div> </div>
<!-- END /var/www/html/homemadetools/protected/modules/zeus/views/tool/postUpdate.php -->

I am surprised you are getting snap action from the pneumatic cylinder.

Ralph

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by gatz

? PJ....... there's no faceplate on the lathe

---

In post #3 you said to Frank:

Quote:

---

Can't run my circa 1900 16x40 or so Hendey in reverse, as the chuck unscrews!

---

Faceplate was an inappropriate term as in Mounting, I meant the Headstock Face/nameplate.

Watched the video again and took a screen shot of the JET Model 1440...
Attachment 24947

So I take it you have an old Hendey as well...definitely no reverse on it.

Attachment 24948

Sorry for the confusion. I do like the shoulder close threading and the idea of your disengagement system is pretty cool!

PJ

@ PJ, Post #3 was by volodar, not me

@ Ralph. it is very quick.
The lever is pushed down to engage the threading.
The cylinder is actually a 2-way, just left the rod end port open. IIRC, it's a 3/4" bore Bimba & using about 3" of stroke
And the SMC valve is a 2-way also, just plugged one port for the "normally closed" position.
Put a breather on the exhaust port.

In the video, you can hear a faint pop when the carriage is moved away from the LS to the right.
That's the SMC valve shifting back to the NC position.
As the cylinder is used as a 1-way and the SMC valve vents to atmosphere, there's no pressure on either end of the cylinder

gatz

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by gatz

@ PJ, Post #3 was by volodar, not me

gatz

---

My bad, gatz. Apologies! No wonder I was confused. Thanks for the pics of your disengagement setup. There is something to be said for pneumatics/actuators...simple and effective. Liked seeing you used the cintered bronze filter/breather. Used a lot of Parker and SMC in my day.

PJ

gatz,

You have a very interesting concept here and very well executed! I hope to see more of your work in the future.

OK, the opportunity to thread some more parts similar to the 3/4-16 items came up,
and I set up the operation again, only this time it's for 1"-14 Threads

Here's a link to the video;

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1n0X...ew?usp=sharing

That set up works better than I had imagined good job

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by gatz

OK, the opportunity to thread some more parts similar to the 3/4-16 items came up,
and I set up the operation again, only this time it's for 1"-14 Threads

---

What a rig! Works well as any commercial cam-operated mechanical kick out.

Consider a positive stop for the cross slide. Eliminate dial reading when all you actually need is repeating zero. One linear rod, two rigid stand-offs, a sliding stop collar and a corresponding anchor stand-off in the cross slide.

That system works brilliantly, love it!!