Mini Lathe Carriage Stops Micrometer and Screw

Made these about 2 years ago when I bought my Mini Lathe. Probably the most used shop made tools that I have for the lathe. The first picture (0000) shows the original setup except for an extra hole (between the two counter bored holes) and an extra cap screw near the back. These are updates that I just did today. Their purpose is for the addition of the eccentric clamp. Following that in picture (0001) are all of the pieces prior to assembly of the revised units. Picture (0002) shows the micrometer stop. Note that it is useable for either right hand or left hand mounting. On the bottom of the main block there are 4 4-40 set screws in a line across the block. Two of them lock the micrometer head from the right and the other two would be used when it is reversed for left hand use. Picture (0003) is the screw type stop and it is also useable either right or left hand.
The remaining pictures just show various views of the stops ready to be installed on the mini lathe.
The two counter bored holes in each stop were used for the original clamping action. They work fine, clamp tight but are not very fast to use even with the custom hex key wrench. I saw the bicycle seat clamps being used for tool clamps and made the upgrades to my clamps. I still keep the allen cap screws loosely installed just to keep the clamps together when I take them off the lathe. Also keeps the chips out of the threads.

The lever clamps are about 1$ each but take about 4 weeks for delivery..Oh well, I did not have to spend shop time on them and they are certainly worth the 1 buck. Check the bay for the clamps.

Cheers, JR

Jr, thanks for the advice about using bicycle seat clamps for tool clamps (I found several versions and very inexpensive at Online Shopping for Cool Gadgets, RC helicopter & Quadcopter, Mobile Phone, Fashion at Banggood.com (I had bought an Arduino based robotic car kit from them before for one of our grand kids)). I like your colorful anodized selections.

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Thanks jjr2001! We've added your Carriage Stops to our Lathe Accessories category,
as well as to your builder page: jjr2001's Homemade Tools. Your receipt:

<div id="blocks"> <div class="block b1 pngfix"> <div class="bimg"> <div> <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/homemade-carriage-stops"> <img src="/uploads/156697/homemade-carriage-stops.jpeg"/> </a> </div> </div> <div class="head pngfix"></div> <div class="left pngfix"></div> <div class="right pngfix"></div> <div class="blockover b1 pngfix"> <div class="title"> <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/homemade-carriage-stops">Carriage Stops</a> <span> by <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/builder/jjr2001">jjr2001</a></span> </div> <div class="tags">tags: <a href='http://www.homemadetools.net/tag/carriage-stop'>carriage stop</a> </div> </div> </div> </div>
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Thanks Paul, I just got lucky on the color. I thought any one of them was nice and bright. Stands out nice on the lathe.
I have looked at Banggood and they look to be about the same as what I bought.

Cheers, JR

Hi JR
Again great idea
I think I am going to see if I can change the clamping arrangement on my standard Colchester bed stop to this locking method. I do not think it will be too much of an issue. If it works I will be pleased, to be able to move away from the socket head cap screw, which keeps filling with swarf will be great.
I have a friend who manages a bike shop so I will see if they have any of old bikes I can use.
Thank you again for posting this, if I can get it to work this will be a great improvement to my lathe.
The Home Engineer

Great, please post your mod when it is ready.
One note on the magnets. I know they attract all the chips but you can wrap them with a bit of aluminum foil
and then the cleanup is at least workable. I have one large cap screw on my lathe for the carriage stop and
don't want to take up any more space in that area with a knob/lever etc. So I just use a neodymium magnet
to cover that one. I think it works great even though it is a bit of a pain to clean. It keeps that cap screw head clean!

Cheers, JR

If, instead of a magnet, you cut a short chunk off an Allen wrench and stick it in the SHCS, there won't be the problem of having to clean up prior to using the screw. Simply brush the (unmagnetized) swarf from the screw head area, pop the plug out and insert the wrench. A thin fingernail notch ground into the plug with a Dremel will make it easier to grasp the plug; you probably don't want the plug extending more than 1/16" or so above the top of the SHCS.

There's a reason why older tool holders had square-headed screws on them. I replaced all the SHCS's on my toolholders with square heads and never have to clean them before wrenching on them. Hex-headed screws are available too.

Hi mklotz
The problem is I would lose the plug. I put a large job down the other day in the workshop and I could not find it. I could use a chain, so permanently attached it to the bed stop I guess. But I do like the idea of the quick release this will save me from hunting for the Allen key as well lol
The Home Engineer

Makes sense about the square bolt heads on the older equipment. I like that idea to keep the swarf out in the first place.
Never thought about putting a short plug allen in the cap screw but what a great idea. I must try that one.

Cheers, jr

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jjr2001

Makes sense about the square bolt heads on the older equipment. I like that idea to keep the swarf out in the first place.
Never thought about putting a short plug allen in the cap screw but what a great idea. I must try that one.

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It doesn't have to be a chunk of Allen wrench. Any hex stock that fits will work. If you can find a few nuts that fit the hex socket you could Loctite them to a bolt that matches the nut thread and have a plug with a built-in handle. Many options. Compressible plastics are also a possibility.

Another approach is to get a length of convenient size hex stock and make hex-head bolts to fit the various adjustments on the lathe. By making all of them with the same size hex head, you'll only need one wrench to operate the lathe.

My lathe came with a SHCS to actuate the carriage lock. I immediately pulled it out and made a duplicate with a hex head. Once installed, it quickly became apparent what a PIA it was to find a wrench and mount it every time I wanted to lock the carriage. Fortunately, I had made the hex head on the screw about 3/4" tall. Using a wrench, I tightened it until the carriage locked and then marked the face of the hex aimed at a convenient angle wrt to the lathe operator. Remove bolt, tap and drill marked face for a handle. Reinstall bolt and tighten down with wrench, then screw in handle.

The bolt sits too close to the compound mount to insert the handle before screwing the bolt in so the above procedure was required. Moving the handle about 45 deg frees up the carriage lock.

Hi JR
The bike seat clamps (M8) have been ordered today from China. £1.18 each, baragain couldn't buy the material to make them at that price.
The Home Engineer

I think you will like them. I thought they might not be tough enough but I have really clamped down with them
and no sign of stress at all. I also have an idea for a Kant Loose Plug for my large cap screw on the order of
what Marv was suggesting. But first I have to finish my KanDoWon'tTwist clamps.. ( I think that might be spelled wrong!)

Cheerz, JR

Interesting, can't wait to see the post on HMT lol