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I wanted to get some feedback from people more creative than I. I recently bought a manual bead roller. I already knew that using one of these by yourself is a bit of a challenge. Without a helper I'm wanting to connect an electric motor and have the ability to creep. Either by voltage reduction or gear reduction. Im guessing someone out there has done this and would love to hear from them. Thank you:headscratch:
Hi Steelydan62 - welcome to HomemadeTools.net :welcome:
Here's a build you might like: https://www.homemadetools.net/forum/...5146#post81250
I motorized mine with a cheap 1500 lb winch and geared it down with a timing chain and cogs off a 350 engine. It has a forward and reverse switch that I can use while still holding the work with 2 hands. The speed is just about right and although it's not variable I can bump it a little at a time if I need to go slower. The only drawback is that I need a 12 volt battery to run it.Attachment 18498Attachment 18499
Thank you so much for the link Jon!
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Thanks athomp! We've added your Bead Roller Modification to our Bead Rollers category,
as well as to your builder page: athomp's Homemade Tools. Your receipt:
<div id="blocks"> <div class="block b1 pngfix"> <div class="bimg"> <div> <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/homemade-bead-roller-modification-6"> <img src="/uploads/193729/homemade-bead-roller-modification-6.jpeg"/> </a> </div> </div> <div class="head pngfix"></div> <div class="left pngfix"></div> <div class="right pngfix"></div> <div class="blockover b1 pngfix"> <div class="title"> <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/homemade-bead-roller-modification-6">Bead Roller Modification</a> <span> by <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/builder/athomp">athomp</a></span> </div> <div class="tags">tags: <a href='http://www.homemadetools.net/tag/bead-roller'>bead roller</a>, <a href='http://www.homemadetools.net/tag/modification'>modification</a>, <a href='http://www.homemadetools.net/tag/motor'>motor</a> </div> </div> </div> </div>
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I don't have a bead roller yet but you are left with two alternatives build a speed reduction transmission (retrofit) or buy one new. Buying new of course is a challenge $$$$ wise. As for DIY you want a sizable speed reduction to get the required torque, otherwise you need a huge motor. The speed reduction can come from a gear box or a cobbled together belt reduction. At some point a more positive chain drive is probably cheaper and more reliable in the lower speed stages.
Variable speed and instant reversing are very useful too. This is more about motor control though.
You just invented the portable powered bead roller! OK not to be funny here but sometimes battery powered tools are a win.Quote:
Originally Posted by athomp
One thing I just about forgot here. Many a guy has used an electric pipe threader drive to power these types of machines. They are normally gear reduced into the right RP range and as rugged as hell. After all if they can withstand a plumber using them bead rolling should be a snap. These drive mechanism are pretty popular on bending rolls for example. Ideally you pick up one at auction for 10 cents on the dollar. You just have to make up a shaft adapter that emulates the die that normally snaps into one of these.Quote:
Originally Posted by wizard69
I used a Harbor Frieght pipe threader to power my rock sifter. Its output is 40rpm which I would think ideal for a bead roller. I don't have a bead roller yet.
I've been contemplating using it to power my HFT ring roller, just haven't gotten back to using the roller so not gotten around to using the threader on it yet. I got my threader out of the HFT return bin for I think $100. It's got plenty of oomph and could power my rock sifter just fine. The cool thing about it is the quick connect style dies make it quickly transferable between machines.
A winch motor has PLENTY of torque.
While the winch motors do have plenty of torque One of them might not be my first choice for the power drive. depending on frequency of anticipated use
My only reason is they are designed for very intermittent use which may be suitable for use as the power of the bead roller, a lot wold depend on how much use it wold get in a half hours time. You see the gear reduction system in them incorporates a single step 200 to 1 reduction and in some cases depending on make or size a 300 to 1 reduction the way this is done goes against any teachings of epicyclic gear manufacturing. they have a single sun gear 3 to 5 or more planets mounted in a free spinning carrier and 2 internal ring gears one will have 200 teeth while the other will have 199 teeth the sun gear mounted to the motor shaft spins while the planet gears rotate around it engaging both of the ring gears one ring gear is fixed and the other is in the drum as every thing spins around the drum gear advances 1 tooth for each 200 revolutions. Its a crazy way of doing it but the darn things work relying on loose and tight gear tolerances
I have a 1/2" planetary drive Snap-on pneumatic drill that incorporates a similar design over the years I have had several of these grenade themselves as well
While I am not a fabricator by trade my bead roller with the winch motor has done everything I've asked of it for the past several years without complaint. The load on the motor is minuscule compared to what it was designed for and it only runs for short periods of time. Meanwhile, during the same time period I've had several electric drills burn out using them for their designed purpose.
This is a simple way of motorizing a bead roller that worked very well for me. If someone wants to make it more complicated with gearboxes and/or belt reductions, fill your boots.
It's good to hear how well the service life has been with the winch motor I have a couple of them used as winches mounted on little cranes on my trailer but hardly ever use them in the past I had one to grenade on me that was used a lot but as a winch that was the only way I found out the gear designQuote:
Originally Posted by athomp
I hope I'm not over thinking this but we are not discounting your solution, merely chipping in on a thread that was meant to give the OP several options. When somebody asks for help it is our way here to let ideas flow. When the pipe threader was mentioned i thought I'd chip in my experience. The "real" pipe threader can be upwards of $1500 and I've never seen one used. I only bumbled on to the HFT version and thought I'd pass it on. It also like most HFT's was a crap shoot quality wise and was lucky to be running it myself when it had a minor failure. I was able to turn it off before it hand grenaded and was able to fix it. I loaned the rig to my neighbor for a week and if it would have happened to him I doubt he would have caught it. So nothing is perfect, we are just trying to be helpful.Quote:
Originally Posted by athomp
