Needle Valve Sight Gravity Drip Feed Oiler - What tubing have you used?

Hi folks. I didn't find much mention of an answer in a search, so here is my current question:

I have one of these brass and glass Needle Valve Sight Gravity Drip Feed Oilers, which has a 1/8" MPT at the delivery end. Rather than experiment and re-invent the wheel, I am wondering if any of you have used these for dripping cutting oil on a lathe, mill, saw, etc. and can tell me what size, what material, and how small a diameter tubing one can use on these and still get a decent drip feed. I want to rig it up with a magnetic base mount (I have a couple extras not in use) so I can stick it on my lathe or mill, and use it to drip cutting oil on the cutter as it is working. I think a small diameter tube, something I can bend, position, and re-bend without kinking or breaking would be ideal. Would one of the "Cardan Joint" bendable tubes (looks like little plastic bowls stacked against each other) like they use on pump cutting oil systems work for a drip feed?

I've also got some 1/4" PEX tube, but its rather stiff. I think small copper refrigeration tubing would bend OK at first, but eventually work harden and get brittle. That's why I thought getting a Cardan Joint tube, with the small nozzle on it, would make things simple for adjustment. I just don't know if they are too small to gravity drip cutting oil.

Any suggestions are appreciated. :)

Why do you need to have the tube be flexible? As long as the mag base is positioned on the cross slide and the dripper is located over the tool tip, it will remain over the tip as you make the cut.

If you really need the spout to be flexible, why not cannibalize a cheap oil can with a flexible spount, e.g.,

https://www.harborfreight.com/4-oz-f...-can-1106.html

Well, as I mentioned, I want to be able to use this on my lathe or mill. On the lathe, it could probably be a fairly rigid setup. But on the mill, with the various kinds of operations and work mounting it can handle, I think a flexible tube coming down from some safe location, say the side of the head casting, would be the best way to go, so I could then position the drip wherever it is needed, on either side of a cutter, close to a small end mill, further away for a large fly cutter or boring head, etc. , while keeping the glass oiler up out of harm's way from flying chips and spinning cutters. :)

The oil can spout is a really good idea, if I can come up with one that actually will stay how it is bent. I have several oil cans, and none of their flexible spouts can be used with much accuracy unless I use one hand on the spout and one on the can. The beauty of the Cardan Joint tube is that it is highly position-able. But, I do have one can that has a nice thin flexible metal spout, rather like a piece of miniature armored cable in appearance. It is probably the best at staying as positioned, and it threads into the top of the can pump. If I can match whatever thread they used and make an adapter over to female 1/8 pipe thread I can give that a try!

Thanks for the idea! :)

Hopefully its ID is not too small so as to interfere with oil flow under only the pressure of gravity.

Edit - Good news! :) Since the oil can using said spout is a Dutton-Lainson, made in USA, I am pleased to find they used 1/4-28 threads to attach the spout to their can. So all I need to do is make a 1/8 NPT to 1/4-28 F to F thread adapter to try it. I was afraid it would be some unusual thread I didn't have taps and dies for. (I've never turned internal threads yet on a lathe, and wouldn't want to try to learn on something this small. )

It is not what I would call "highly" position-able, but it does seem to hold whatever curvature I make on it, within its limitations. It won't curve very tightly. Now to make the adapter and see if its small passage will allow a drip feed.

I am happy to report that this configuration works very well for dripping the Reli-On Cutting Oil I primarily use here. I did not think it was going to work at first, as the very tiny hole in the tip of the flexible tube appeared to be holding the oil back. I started a drip about 0.3 Hz, (3 seconds per drip) and watched the drops in the drip viewing tube for over a minute, yet nothing left the end of the tube. But before I decided I might need larger tube, I opened the drip control to a very fast drip and allowed the tube to fill with the drops of oil. Once that happened, it started dripping out the end of the tube. I was then able to cut back to .3 Hz again, as well as trying other speeds, and the tip mirrored whatever time scale I used up at the sight viewer for the drips. Turning it off instantly stops the dripping from the tip, even though the tube is still full of oil (capillary action - very handy!) As soon as I turn the drip on again, the tip instantly returns to dripping at the appropriate rate.

I still need to decide what kind of bracket to make between the magnetic base I am using and the oiler housing. But my temporary rigging for proof of concept is a success. :) So apparently even a small diameter tube can be used on one of these oilers.

Hi Metalmuncher,
It's not a bad idea, but after some proofing, the solution with the venturi technology seems for me a better and easier solution, the problem with the gravity lubrication for your use is that your oiler has a tendency to make some drops in place of a perfect "smog" of air and lubricant, you haven't seen that if you don't use it for hours but in normal workshop use it comes everytime in my experience.
If you forget to close some seconds before ou close the air, when you open the air the next time, you have too much lubricant at the beginning.
The position of the pipe is of great importance too, if you have the possibility to place the tank under the end of the pipe solve a lot of problems but is not very often possible.
For the transparent tank I use polycarbonate which can be found easily in differents diameters, the first I've made were in technical glass, nice solution but need more work to cut and polish than synthetic material.
If you want i can make some pictures of one installation I use on the lathe principally.
Have a good day.
Pierre

Loc-Line is what is used for flood coolant on most machines. The fittings give endless possibilities and configurations. The material is inert and should be immune to most all cutting oils. This is only one link on this site . . . there are too many combinations to list here.

https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/09777012

I agree totally with Saltfever for the use of Loc-Line, some pipes I use are more than 20 years in activity without breakeage or eaging with oils etc…or others media with high Ph levels in use in differents workshops employing this products line.

The problem with Loc-line for dripping fluid is they are usually of a much larger bore and, as described, useful for flood coolant. Not for expensive lubricants unless you are rich. Capillary tubing would be perfect except it needs a bit of pressure to force the fluid through it. A high enough placement of the reservoir would give you enough head to push the fluid through the tubing. To make it point where you need it (very close to the action), wrap soft aluminum wire around the tube.

Air mist systems do work better and also provide significant cooling. So much so that frequently air alone is adequate as long as you are not really pushing the cut.

Metalmuncher, those needle valve sight glass gravity drip oilers work great on old machines to keep bronze bushings properly oiled. You are gonna use pretty lightweight oil which will gravity flow down a very small tube.

I first put a couple small 1 oz ones right on the bearing caps of my Southbend lathe. I just drilled and tapped the cap for 1/8 PT and because they are right there in your line of sight whenever you're working on the lathe, its easy to remember to flip the levers to turn them on. The harder part (for me) is remembering to shut them off when I'm done!

I also put a 3 oz oiler on the side of my Do-All vertical bandsaw. I just have a standard 1/4" PT fitting going thru the saw frame column with the oiler mounted on a 90* on the outside and then an old 1/4" hydraulic hose on the inside to direct the oil flow to the bearing on the variable speed pulley. Works great! Bill

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Metalmuncher

Hi folks. I didn't find much mention of an answer in a search, so here is my current question:

I have one of these brass and glass Needle Valve Sight Gravity Drip Feed Oilers, which has a 1/8" MPT at the delivery end. Rather than experiment and re-invent the wheel, I am wondering if any of you have used these for dripping cutting oil on a lathe, mill, saw, etc. and can tell me what size, what material, and how small a diameter tubing one can use on these and still get a decent drip feed. I want to rig it up with a magnetic base mount (I have a couple extras not in use) so I can stick it on my lathe or mill, and use it to drip cutting oil on the cutter as it is working. I think a small diameter tube, something I can bend, position, and re-bend without kinking or breaking would be ideal. Would one of the "Cardan Joint" bendable tubes (looks like little plastic bowls stacked against each other) like they use on pump cutting oil systems work for a drip feed?

I've also got some 1/4" PEX tube, but its rather stiff. I think small copper refrigeration tubing would bend OK at first, but eventually work harden and get brittle. That's why I thought getting a Cardan Joint tube, with the small nozzle on it, would make things simple for adjustment. I just don't know if they are too small to gravity drip cutting oil.

Any suggestions are appreciated. :)

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Yes your idea will work but only up to a point that when you want to part off you will find the drip feed oiler does not deliver enough coolant and that you have to fill it to frequently to be practical. Bite the bullet now and get yourself a small coolant pump with tank, they are reasonable price. The alternative is to use a loaded coolant brush from a coolant can BUT this is not a good solution as the parting process needs two hands.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Chipmaker

Yes your idea will work but only up to a point that when you want to part off you will find the drip feed oiler does not deliver enough coolant and that you have to fill it to frequently to be practical. Bite the bullet now and get yourself a small coolant pump with tank, they are reasonable price. The alternative is to use a loaded coolant brush from a coolant can BUT this is not a good solution as the parting process needs two hands.

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I agree wholeheartedly with Chipmaker. The nice brass and glass drip oilers look impressive to look at but they are not very functional. I've seen a number of drip oilers from a 1 qt. oil can with a hole punched in it suspended over the work piece to some precision micro pumps.

However for most home machinists, an inexpensive coolant pump will provide much more satisfaction, over time, than a drip oiler. Of course you will have to come up with a coolant recovery mechanism to recycle the coolant but that is a minor issue.

More to the point is that you will have a better choice of coolants that you can more readily change to suit the work which will result in a better surface finish. There are many different water soluble coolants for ferrous and non-ferrous stock that can keep the cost in check.
A fog or a flood of coolant removes more heat from the working edge of the cutter than does a drip. Size your coolant delivery orifice to the needs of the work.

Freeing up both hands to control the work is priceless.

A better surface finish at the machining phase saves hours of polishing later.
Good luck.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Metalmuncher

Hi folks. I didn't find much mention of an answer in a search, so here is my current question:

I have one of these brass and glass Needle Valve Sight Gravity Drip Feed Oilers, which has a 1/8" MPT at the delivery end. Rather than experiment and re-invent the wheel, I am wondering if any of you have used these for dripping cutting oil on a lathe, mill, saw, etc. and can tell me what size, what material, and how small a diameter tubing one can use on these and still get a decent drip feed. I want to rig it up with a magnetic base mount (I have a couple extras not in use) so I can stick it on my lathe or mill, and use it to drip cutting oil on the cutter as it is working. I think a small diameter tube, something I can bend, position, and re-bend without kinking or breaking would be ideal. Would one of the "Cardan Joint" bendable tubes (looks like little plastic bowls stacked against each other) like they use on pump cutting oil systems work for a drip feed?

I've also got some 1/4" PEX tube, but its rather stiff. I think small copper refrigeration tubing would bend OK at first, but eventually work harden and get brittle. That's why I thought getting a Cardan Joint tube, with the small nozzle on it, would make things simple for adjustment. I just don't know if they are too small to gravity drip cutting oil.

Any suggestions are appreciated. :)

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WHAT I USE IS: WHEN I GO TO HOSPITAL & THEY DO AN IV I ASK FOR IT WHEN THEY TAKE IT OUT.
MOST TIMES THE VALVES & OTHER PARTS OF IT ARE THERE.
I'M CHEAP, JUST FILL BAG WITH LUBE & HANG.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Nightshift

Metalmuncher, those needle valve sight glass gravity drip oilers work great on old machines to keep bronze bushings properly oiled. You are gonna use pretty lightweight oil which will gravity flow down a very small tube.

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I did that on my old 14 inch Rockford lathe. Found the bearings heated up a bit after a long run. Switched to 50 weight Mobil 1 synthetic and the bearings never ran warm after that. Did the same thing on my Bridgeport spindle bearings with 30 weight Mobil 1. Since these are total loss oiling systems, the detergents in the oil do not cause problems.

Metalmuncher, here's what I use when I need a cutting oil flow on either the mill or a lathe. This unit has magnets on the back of the control box so it will stick anywhere. I usually just leave it stuck on the side of this tool chest which sits between my 10EE and the mill. There are 2 nozzle ends on long hoses which also have big magnets that will stick close to the cutter. It uses low air pressure and small ball valves to provide a controllable positive flow where needed. You just keep the reservoir on top filled with cutting oil. I don't use it often as it makes a mess, especially if doing a long job. Bill

Thanks for all the interesting suggestions! :)

What I am aiming for here is a lazy way to replace the coolant application on my mill and lathe that has served me will since the turn of this century.........dripping it on with a small nozzle bottle, a little at a time, repeatedly, as needed. That way I don't have a pool to deal with, no need for compressed air or a pump, and no need for any kind of coolant recovery system. Most of the coolant/cutting oil ends up on the chips, which, once I am sure they are cool, get vacuumed away with my shop vac.

What this device I assembled does for me is allow me to have the drops of oil I would be stopping and applying manually to be automatically applied, at any rate I choose. This sight drip oiler has a wide range of adjustment, from very slow (several seconds per drop) through nearly a steady stream, and is very consistant at any setting, even after it loads the tube I am using with oil. However, that tube is not very position-able, as it was designed for an oil can. I've learned the type of jointed tube I mentioned initially (and visible in Nightshift's posted photo above) is sold under the product name Loc-Line, and Amazon carries it in several ways. I have ordered a "kit" of it with fittings, as well as a pliers tool for assembling/disassembling the custom lengths desired, and intend to use that instead of the current oil can tube I have in place.

In reply to the mention of parting off, applying drops of coolant to the groove the tool cuts is how I've always done that. I have no problem parting non-ferrous materials (my mainstay here). The only issues I have with parting come when I try to do some kind of steel, which becomes an issue of things moving that should not move, allowing the cutter to hog in. But brass and aluminum part beautifully for me. I have a saw, so when I work with ferrous stuff I saw it to oversize length and then face the ends to the desired length on the lathe or mill.

Thanks! :)

I have not used this for this purpose. There's reasons these are used to supply lube to ways & spindles, AND that misters are used to supply cutting fluids to cutting tools. Either way you have to get the fluid in sufficient quantity to where the tool meets the workpiece. It takes very little fluid in just the right place to do the job. Flooding is OK IF you have a way to control/collect the excess. Misters cool the work far better and consume far less fluid in a very diluted form (typically in water).

Still, I suppose the drip method could/should work IF you can get fluid to the cutting edge.

I've used plastic tubing from when it became available (yes I am very old) I also use plastic tubing on my vacum chucks.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jimirwin

It takes very little fluid in just the right place to do the job.

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I agree wholeheartedly! :)

The Re-Li-On fluid I use is fairly thin in consistency, but it adheres well to either a flat surface, hole being drilled or tapped, or a spinning piece on the lathe. As my current method has always been to put the fluid in place, then do the cutting, the cutter enters the middle of the adhering fluid to make the cut. So it seems prudent for me to have the drips laying down just ahead of the cutter as it advances.

Flooding/recovery and misting seem a great idea for high-speed production runs, where the overall cost of using those systems is billed to a customer. For one-off hobby jobs like I do, a bottle of cutting oil lasts me a very long time. :) And many operations don't require cutting oil at all.

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