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One-man off-grid log cabin build. Kinda like a Dick Proenneke thing, but less bucolic, and more instructional, with homemade tools and techniques.
4:00 video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cot3y87cvvk
Rough guess: more than half of our members maintain a "build a log cabin" dream. I know I do.
Previously:
https://www.homemadetools.net/forum/...151#post120966
https://www.homemadetools.net/forum/...3540#post99383
I do; but I'll prefer brick...cause I'm not interested in moving again. Too many things I like are real tough off-grid.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon
I’m so jealous of people that seem to be cyborgs. I don’t know how a single human being can do so much work. It is just something I don’t have in me. I’ve tried many times but I just don’t have whatever special sauce people like this have.
New update today, with plenty more homemade tools.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7DOCsMBA5lo
Really liked that Bearing Race draw knife!
Fresh episode. I like the log ramps he uses to send cut logs to the cabin. And the various guides for cutting the logs too. 10:05 video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fQSpQH9t_mM
GREAT video and life style! All that's needed now is a water wheel, a line shaft, and an of the grid gun smithy. Unregistered of course.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon
Max Egorov asks whether to depend on wedge or lever to raise header at occasion of installing pin hinged door. Found link and he'd acquired plenty of responsible replies.
My experience says plan to implement both. I wedge and lever frequently, yet they don't seem interchangeable.
Working against considerable weight is a lot about timing and agility. The advantage in levers gains by distance from fulcrum at operators end, and/or reducing space from load to pivot. Power diminishes with each degree higher initial position.
So, I use wedges of two varieties to 'park' a load, while preparing a new bite for the prybar, depending on shape/ weight of object. Version 1 are simple inclines, which allow minute increments of adjustment. Oak from scrap pallets for larger sizes, aluminum for smaller; both have tendency to grip floor and object as they are soft without deforming. Version 2 are made simultaneously, two matching wedges just like adjustable parallels. I use a short [6'] fiberglass fishing rod blank to manipulate wedges while I manage the prybar. By combining the two, takes advantage best qualities both offer.
What I do avoid is knocking wedges in to impart lift, often become increasingly hard to remove. When called for though, I use what pipefitters use, flange separators, quite similar what used by timber cutters known as 'felling wedges'.
Since I retain all my limbs and respective appendages, system works well. Especially that nearly everything I do is unaided.
The same guy posted a video of a homemade wire clamping tool, plus you get to see more shots of his cabin. 10:35 video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mRc7ZDRcgrQ
The more of these wire clamping tools I see being posted here the more I think I need to take the time and build one for myself.
Now this is a tool I have never seen in any stores - a beautiful design and well done.
You and me both mate. It is some I need every now and then but I've never bothered making one.Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank S
I would love to have a cabin like this one.
The problem in the UK is that there wouldn't be anywhere but private land to build one.
Very cool tool besides that beautiful setting
I’m not sure what was more interesting your wire tool or the cabin in the woods!!!
More from this guy. Bear-proofing a log cabin. 22:33 video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=arnAD8I7msQ
The next time you're in a home improv store, buy a cheap water meter shutoff wrench. They make dandy hose clampers. Add a roll of tie wire (or electric fence wire if you want galvanized) and you're set for hose clamps for a very long time.
Attachment 34349
Oh I can use this.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v-PP3Wu54dI
As I don't believe anything can be made to be bear proof. You can only slow them down long enough for them to loose interest and move on. Your idea of opening the door outward is a good start. We had a cabin near the Boundary Waters canoe area. The door opened outward to slow the bears down. The door was two inches thick (50mm). the bear scratched through the door until it could hook it's claws through and pulled it open breaking the latch. The latch was a 2x4 drop down bar. Lucky we were not there. Of course if we were the bear would have been shot or chased off. My uncles built a screened porch with the bottom out of logs extending up about four feet (1.2meters) from the ground. This served to keep the snow away from the door. On top of the logs they installed used sickle bars from a sickle bar mower. from the farm. We would occasionally have to sew the screens back up as the bears would come around and scratch the screens but never enough to get through. The sickle bars must have been annoying enough that they just moved on.
Great cabin you have built. Keep up the good work.
I enjoyed watching the use of basic tools and physics to construct the cabin, yet in one of the photos there appears to be what looks like a drone on the log in front of the cabin. I like the mix. The craftsmanship and demonstration of the use of basic tools was refreshing as opposed to all of the mass produced building techniques used today.
It's already been added before.
My error Crusty, thanks for the heads up, all fixed. I saw this one posted mid-thread and sent out a notice to queue it for addition.
It would be nice if each builder had the ability to edit their own builder page to correct errors.
