Hi Jaden: This is my 1st post to any forum, of any kind, anywhere. If I step on toes, please let me know. Sure don't want to offend anyone nor break a rule. I'm an antique machinist; antique clockmaker; small time collector of old hand tools and a wannabe blacksmith. Concerning the two screwdrivers pictured, the one with the hex shape, below the wood is, an H.d. Smith Perfect Handle. The other one probably is not unless it says so somewhere on the tool. Many companies made tools with handles similar to HDS but the genuine Perfect Handled tools are quite unique when closely compared. HDS made a wide variety of tools. Wrenches such as "Monkey Wrench" style, "S" shape, Open end with wood handle, and others; also multiple/sizes types of screw drivers; hammers, hatchets, auto tire tools and valve tools -- you get the picture. I suspect that HDS tool handles were made of Hickory - can't prove that. To accurately replace one it would be best to use same wood and not replace at all unless the wood is really bad. The stripped Poplar is quite pretty and would make a good looking handle for any tool you made from scratch. I don't know of any tool manufacturer that used Poplar. I really liked the post from Tony Hillman about Cherry. Good useful info.
Last edited by RustyWrench; 02-17-2015 at 08:28 PM.
Yes, same for me,
thanks to both of you, and long forum life to you RustyWrench, your experience seems to be huge, that's a great pleasure reading you !
Keep posting !
(sure as a clock maker you should have interesting enough tools to show us )
I must admit I didn't look carefully enough the couple of screwdrivers above, and effectively, the handles are really unique.
Have you an idea of how the metal part was made ? blacksmithed + ground ? or casting ?
The fit of the wood on the metal is very neat, difficult to find that on production tools today.
A caveat about using Cherry wood for handles: it can be brittle when dry. Not a problem for carving tools that are pushed by hand. If you start whacking at a Cherry handle with a club or mallet: must have the leather or metal end caps/rings to take up the shock. I use the softer plastic (or whatever that hard rubbery material is) bound carving club, easier on the tools and your tendons.
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