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With the Siamese cylinders chained down tight to my worktable the gland nut removed it was now time to make a rig for puling the rod.
I used a 16 ft long piece of 6" H beam laying on na pair of my steel work horses butted up against the table a 2 ton chain hoist and a length of chain
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Thanks Frank S! We've added your Cylinder Rod Removal Fixture to our Miscellaneous category,
as well as to your builder page: Frank S's Homemade Tools. Your receipt:
<div id="blocks"> <div class="block b1 pngfix"> <div class="bimg"> <div> <a href="https://www.homemadetools.net/homemade-cylinder-rod-removal-fixture"> <img src="/uploads/255309/homemade-cylinder-rod-removal-fixture.jpeg"/> </a> </div> </div> <div class="head pngfix"></div> <div class="left pngfix"></div> <div class="right pngfix"></div> <div class="blockover b1 pngfix"> <div class="title"> <a href="https://www.homemadetools.net/homemade-cylinder-rod-removal-fixture">Cylinder Rod Removal Fixture</a> <span> by <a href="https://www.homemadetools.net/builder/Frank+S">Frank S</a></span> </div> <div class="tags">tags: <a href='https://www.homemadetools.net/tag/fixture'>fixture</a>, <a href='https://www.homemadetools.net/tag/disassembly'>disassembly</a> </div> </div> </div> </div>
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I was expecting to see a flood of hydraulic fluid.
I've done this before. Most of the time whenever possible I will dry cycle the rod all the way in and all the way out with hoses attached to the ports leading into a bucket that way if it is not water contaminated I can filter it and return it to useQuote:
Originally Posted by metric_taper
What's a Siamese cylinder? I've heard "simo" cylinders on big equipment, but that's a bastardization of simultaneous with respect to big industrial hydraulic presses. I did a search online and can only find reference to engine blocks where cylinders have no water jacket between them. What are these cylinders used for?Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank S
Just incase someone doesn't read the other thread Siamese cylinders are matted side by side with the rods facing in opposite directions. some manufactures do this instead of having to use a double acting telescopic cylinder. Siamese double acting cylinders are simpler to make than a telescopic cylinder which is also required to exert force while retracting also you can achieve a longer stroke in a shorter area than having to use a single long cylinderQuote:
Originally Posted by nova_robotics
Thanks for the idea Frank. I`m in the midst or replacing the seals in the tilt cylinder on my forklift. The container I used when I redid the other side got repurposed and I was wondering what to use to contain the oil out of this one. I have a bunch of different size I-beam and I think I will cut an appropriate size and cap the ends and make a trough. This one is turning out to be a PIA like the other side. The pin that holds the cylinder is frozen into the flange in the forklift like the other side was. That one took me three days before I finally got it out by burning the inside out of with a cutting torch. Wish me luck on this one, lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank S
Ok, Luck! which do you prefer good or bad? :hattip: Sorry couldn't resist. Back when I worked at the Cat' shop. I used to get a thrill out of watching the owner squirm when I drug out my Broco lance to cut out frozen pins. On one occasion I had tried to pull the taper end caps off a loader bucket. so I could remove the draft arms and repair them. First I used the 150 ton puller until it blew out the seals then we bought the dynamite charge pullers after 2 attempts on each pin cap a total of 16 1/4 stick charges Roland said just cut the dang things, so I set up my lance and started making a lava pile of molten slag out of them. 6" diameter pins 18 inches long $2000.00 apiece plus the end caps $150.00 each 4 sleeve bearings $400.00 each 1 rebuild kit for the 150 ton puller, $400.00 for the dynamite charge pullers $250.00 of consumable lance rods 1 tank of liquid nitrogen to freeze the pins so they would reduce in size $200.00 20 hours of my labor @ 35.00 per hour later I had the bucket off of the loader. I guess we could have saved the cost of the charges and the repair on the puller plus about 14 hours of my labor by sacrificing the pins and caps from the get go, But you kind of want to exhaust every hopefully less costly means before cutting something as expensive as those pins were.Quote:
Originally Posted by baja
A tip for removing your tilt cyl pins if you have straight access try drilling a hole all the way through them first before torching them if you don't have a lance. Or if you have ever made a blow pipe out of a long piece of 1/8" black pipe fitted over the end of your torch tip to use like a poor man's lance, with a little practice they work reasonably well. but I prefer to buy a #4 tip and use lots of oxygen pressure with 15 PSIg of acetylene. They also make a 7inch long tip in #2 through 4 which you can allow to slowly consume while blowing through the pins good for pins of about 6 inches long. When torching through pins is the 1 time you will see me put on my leathers
Thanks, I`ll take the good, lol. Thankfully the pin is only about an inch by four or so and after the last go around I ordered an extra pin so I have all the parts. I turned down a piece of a VW axle for a temporary pin until the new one came in.
