Rolling Mill

[Toolmaker51]

Carbide, while near diamond in hardness, a very resistant dense body, means the cutting edge is brittle. That can be alleviated but not eliminated in setup. It hinges on whether they're ground positive, negative or neutral, in respect to it running 'on center' like we'd describe a lathe. Carbide is intended to push material vice cutting it as HSS. Good thing about import bars usually don't have a clamping flat...instead of placing on plane to center [let's call that 3 o'clock] rotate it back to 3'15'' or so, figuratively speaking. That puts more material at underside of cutting edge.
I don't fault you, the mill, spindle, or .020 per side, but carbide needs to work not scrape. Chip ejection carries away heat, so a consistent feed-rate is important.
Regard this as an open letter to all readers. We really don't 'know' each other personally, or can watch goings on, everything depends on symptoms reported.
There isn't any suggestion here I haven't seen occur one time or another.
If a HSS drill bit scratches the surface, it will certainly bore with HSS. I looked to see what pattern a Clausing 8520 is, they are substantial.
Rigidity isn't spindle alone. Are the column clamps snug? Is the ram retracted or extended, snug either way? Part clamped to table? Is the hold down bolt properly placed at nose of clamp? Wish I had a dime for every hold-down I've seen closer to the step blocks. Wrong! In a milling vise, or drilling vise? 'Drill vises' have near zero lateral strength and practically no hold-down ability. Bad vises aren't even good C-clamps.
As far as the Morse Taper not releasing, that's all guess work.
I don't recall an OK condition Morse taper giving me any trouble, let alone brass punch and engineers hammer.
If the spindle has a slot for drift wedge, it's probably slotted for the Morse tang.
If they are retained by a drawbolt very little torque is needed to retain the taper. Morse tapers are self holding. One should be able to sock in a clean #2, 3/4" bit and drill into solid material, and remove after with a drift and simple but solid tap.. Is taper clean AND bore dry? NO oil other that from handling..
My Bridgeport Cherry rig is MT for endmills, it doesn't drill at all, but never spun an endmill or had drawbar much more than fingertight with a 3/4" boxend wrench.
One more, on drawbolt; clean the threads, there should be a thick washer on the spindle under head of drawbolt with a thin film of oil. Thickness of washer unknown...but could be established by assembling outside the spindle.
Look for interference at end of threads to collet, protrusion into cavity for tool, or short thread engagement.
There are more but these are a good start.

[LMMasterMariner]

Ralph, I fully understand you as I have the same problem. Very small workshop (3 x 2 meters) and I also must be able to move my lathe and mill around in order to put them in their final positions. I made it little bit differently and I used idea at The Heavy Bench - The Garage Journal Board. Have the same bars with casters and same hydraulic jacks for both.
2 pictures attached.
Regards
LMMM

[Ralphxyz]

Now this is embarrassing, I am lucky I was not killed.

I had said before that some longer channel iron would be more secure/steady.

I was raising the mill to get some pictures of the screw jack extended, as requested.

I was raising one side at a time, which is slow work.

I made one more turn of the screw and then BANG the mill fell over backwards, luckily it did not fall to the front as I was on the floor working from the front.

If it had fallen to the front they is no way I'd be posting this, I cannot believe how fast it fell I could never gotten out of the way.

Luckily, ha, the 3/8 brass rod extended about four inches above the spindle, this caught a workbench behind the mill and gouging the bench slowed the fall.

It seems as if the motor cover took the rest of the fall so that is broken but otherwise everything seems to work.

I am surprised my DROs were not affected, the mounting is not overly secure.

Well I will not do this again, all I need is a 1/4" and that is steady. I would have someone else with me, not that they could stop the mill from falling, but just to have another pair of eyes watching what was happening to avoid something like this from happening.


Ralph

[Frank S]

re:

I have the Little Machine Shop 1266 boring tool with the 1630 2MT shank

I have a real problem with the 2MT shank, the shank will not release from the spindle, with the Clausing Mill it is "suggested" that one "gently" tap
on the Drawbar nut to release collets from the spindle. Well I am beating on a 3/8" brass rod in place of the drawbar with a 3 1/2# sledge hammer and the shank will not give.

I am building a tapered wedge that I will beat in between the spindle and shank and I have the pieces coming to make up a screw enabled device.
It has been suggested to heat up the spindle "very carefully", I have problems with the very carefully part.

Any suggestions on how to release the shank?

One has even said they had to disassemble the spindle and use a heavy press to get a stuck collett out.

Ralph

You should have been able to simply loosen the draw bar a couple of turns then whit a good rap from your hammer the MT2 would have come loose
The 3/8" brass rod bothers me since the threads in the adapter is also 3/8"
If your draw bar is short or the threads do not engage at least 1 1/2 diameters it is too short.
Now here is one thing I would try before using a drift key. remove the washer from the draw bar screw it back in place all the way down until the head of the draw bar touches the top of the spindle then back it off 2 threads. If you have a pneumatic hammer put a blunt punch in it or cut one off until it is flat but one of these would be better
https://www.zoro.com/grey-pneumatic-...17/i/G5289116/
Then use that on top of the draw bar to free the taper.
I've used them on stuck items with tapers many times like tie rod ends where they were drawn up super tight and I could not get to the side to rap on the knuckle with a hammer and have almost never had an occasion where I couldn't free up what I was working on.

[LMMasterMariner]

Ralph,
I am glad that you are still among us and I am very sorry for your loss.
Don't enter the workshop today anymore and start celebrating your new birthday.
Check the damage tomorrow.
Best regards
LMMasterMariner

[Ralphxyz]

Thanks Frank, I started with a light tap, which usually works for collets, then a good rap, and then a whack finally I am up to severely beating on it.

But it refuses to budge.

The last four or five threads on my drawbar are gone so I thought the brass bar would work, I use the brass bar for my MT2 Jacobs chuck with tang.

There is no slot for a drift key on the Clausing 8520 only the draw bar which they suggests gentle tapping, ha.

Now the rotary hammer is a good idea, I will have to straighten out the brass bar.

The brass bar has belled out on it's ends so I cannot retract it from the spindle until I get the shank out.

Ralph

[Frank S]

You are fortunate indeed. glad you were not injured or killed Yes it is embarrassing however I do not know of a single person who has had to move top heavy machinery that has not had at least 1 such experience.
I am glad you posted it because hopefully others who see this will be able to learn something which will prevent them from having to have it happen to them because they may not be so lucky.
years ago I bought a new 250 ton 12ft hydraulic press break the dealer delivered it and used their own equipment to bring it in my shop just as the fork lift operator was about top make a 90° maneuver it slid off one of the forks from only a couple inches off the floor but when the back of the machine slid off the end it fell completely over taking out a wall in the process which had a 2" electrical conduit running at about 10 ft high something that was against the wall ripped the conduit and pulled the conductors out of a service panel our shop was shut down for a week.
The installer company didn't have insurance so the machinery dealer took responsibility in the end our press break wound up being free plus the shop wall and some other equipment and wiring replaced at the dealer's expense
Yes accidents happen we can only hope to learn from those experiences to try and prevent them from happening again

[Ralphxyz]

Thanks for the sympathy LMMasterMariner, I checked the mill and did some milling so it appears to be working fine, I only broke the motor cover.

Well the cover and my pride.

Ralph

[mklotz]

Frank's advice to use vibration is well-taken. I've unfrozen many small stuck nuts with little more than a bit of Kroil and one of those vibratory engraving pens.

Speaking of Kroil, is there any way you can get a bit of it down the spindle to the mating metal surfaces? If you don't have Kroil, a 50-50 mix of acetone and ATF is a good substitute.

[Frank S]

If all else fails you can do this

make you a pair of wedges similar to the video place between the boring head and the spindle shaft and hope the arbor stays in the boring head